skeet94

Star A: Oh no I did want him to go past, but as I was only "cruising" at 40mph (speed limit for the road) the guy thought "let me take him over" and that's where I didn't speed up or anything...it's only when he decided he didn't want to crash head on to the car on the opposite side of the road did he decide to nearly pull into my rear wing, which is where I had to floor it to avoid him hitting the drivers rear side of my car :(. The BOV was only bought as I was contemplating going single within a year of buying the car, and since things didn't work out I did put the BOV on since it'd just be sitting there. I might just slap the stock recirculating BOV back on till I do go single though - hate this unwanted attention. ...OH and trust me there are college kids driving around in 330Ci's and S3's with shoddy kits and/or neons, or dual/quad exit exhausts who think they've got a pocket rocket cos it farts!

ARRRRRRRGGGGHHHH - I hate little boy racers in their 4 cylinders go nowhere dual exit exhaust boys with their boy racer caps and neon lights who think they have fast cars and nearly crash into you trying to make you wanting to race. Wish all of them would just get thrown into a big massive boat and shipped off into the antarctic with their poxy little cars! Hate every single one of them, especially when they try racing for no apparent reason! Just tonight, had some nice drive to Stanstead Airport to pick up my sister, and then on the way home. Had a pleasant drive there and back...except nearly witnessed a lorry swerve into a Land Rover on the way back - but anyway, get off the A406 at Ilford, and driving along Romford Road...some little toerag in his Audi S3 tries to overtake me, by going on the opposite side of the road, whilst I'm driving at 40mph, and nearly crashes into me. Thankfully I saw him in the side mirror about to swerve so just floored the Aristo and got away from him smacking my rear wheel arch. Then the little **** gets up beside me at the lights, in the ABSOLUTELY wrong lane and tries to get ahead of me, again by nearly scraping the side of my car. Worst thing being - guy was absolutely oblivious to the fact that he almost crashed his car into mine TWICE even after all the "horning". Pulled his little ***** over at Tesco Metro where he seemed like he wanted to fill up and just vented out some frustration - that's when I realised the little twit was completely oblivious about his actions! I just wish it was some road rage-aholic and not me who he messed about with like that - could've learned a thing or two. How the hell do people like these get on the roads?! I mean I don't go around wasting time trying to race little poxy pricks like these, mostly cos I know I can spank their S3's, but WHY DO PEOPLE HEAR A BOV and want to race?! Sorry if I'm wasting valuable forum space but just wanted to hear any experiences other people may have had with these idiots on the roads. Might make me feel better knowing I'm not the only one feels this way!

I went from Eagle F1's to Falken FK451's and I have to stress the fact that the F1's did have a "weaker" sidewall that would give in MUCH easier to highspeed cornering, where the FK451's don't "break" out. Both are near enough equal in terms of performance, except the FK's are a little noisier. The F1's and FK's both react very predictably when pushing them to their "breakin" limit, and both are very good tyres for the money! :). Unless you drive your car like you just stole it, either of the above would be MORE than enough :).

Don't know about Mk1's but on my Mk2 I'm using a 285 width tyre. I think the highest you can do on a 10" wide wheel is a 305 width tyre. If your car isn't lowered get the most tire you can on the wheel! :). Difference is only about £20 tops.

They're only about £100 from your local Toyota dealer - so just pick them up from there and use your Gold discount... Also in order to make sure it is the Ball joints, jack the front of the car up, and then check for play by grabbing the outer part of the rim and moving it up/down/side to side...should tell you if the ball joints are knackered...another sign is a slight "clicking" sound when you reverse whilst parallel parking on the side of a road or onto a drive with a slope. Hope that helps. Also brake discs don't warp THAT easily! I've got a set of not so good EBC discs on the fronts and although the discs have been punished like no other (multiple *55mph* stops), and brake fade kicking in, I've not had them warp on me yet. Unless you do that sort of thing EVERY DAY then it's another matter or if you're into tracking your car :). Anyways, I'd get the balljoints checked out first then everything else :). PS: If you get your balljoints done, make sure you get a good mechanic to do it so the alignment/tracking can still be "retained"...otherwise get the car aligned/tracked again :).

You've got PM :).

Check your ball joints, wheel balancing and tracking/alignment. Basically I used to have the very same problem...used to think it was brake discs too, but after replacing the front lower ball joints the problem was GREATLY reduced. Then just after had the 19's put on, all balanced with new tyres all round and the problem dissapeared completely. Also a bad alignment is said to cause these problems too. Hope that helps :).

*sigh* only a GS430 :P That's pretty cool nonetheless...I'd definitely move out of the way if that was up my *****...bet it's quicker than their 5 series models too.

Totally agree!!

No probs - More info on the system can be found at Club Lexus ... IIRC it was going to run about $4000-$5000 (USD)...so quite a fair bit of money.

If you're looking at Air Suspension - I think Tanabe has a coil/air suspension combo system...utilizing coils to retain good handling and air for soft ride quality. Might want to check them out? They do cost a pretty penny though :).

No probs bud...will keep you updated on how I get on with it...just waiting for the sun to come back before I do anything outdoors! lol.

That's Jtanoyo's car...he came on here a while back with pics of his car...IIRC he sold it (confused)...or so that's what was said on ClubLexus. It's one awesome ride though! Regarding the Air Suspension...you do know that with Air Suspension comes not so good handling...?

Oh no it's not complicated whatsoever. After having a read through most of the tutorials out there, it's pretty simple. Just takes a lot of time and patience to get it right. Best tool for the job is a Dremel, with which you can just cut a hole. I mean if you've ever done some DIY it's easy as pie compared to DIY in the house. The only problem with 2nd lights is that they are glued - so require a bit of oven time, which I'm more than comfortable doing. Once open, just disassemble the whole light assembly (screws/bolts/etc), and do the cutout using a Dremel. Align, glue/screw (your own preference) the projector and re-assemble and rebake to get the glue to seal it up and you're done! It's much better than paying £600 for a retrofit job yourself, not to mention it does give you a unique look too but mostly the light output is increased tremendously (if using the LS430/Acura TL/S2000 projectors). I'm going to do it to mine, and if you like the results, then drop me a PM and I'd be more than happy to do yours too...just have to do it on mine first to get the "hang" of it. It's just a weekend job if anything.

Hey Brain, The kit involves opening up your current headlights, cutting out a "hole" in the reflector to put the projector through, making sure the "sheild" is put on the right way (so your beam looks like ----> -----____)and the levelling is perfectly fine (guide available on above forum), and then just hook it up to your existing ballast. That's just the basic part of it, the other things you can do are paint the housing black for a total blackout look without affecting light output, do a "color" mod on the projectors to get the flicker effect, do a sheild mod to increase output on the projector, etc. I'm currently looking at doing the S2000/LS430 projector mod on my Aristo (currently has OEM reflector HID's) around about August. If you need any more help, just PM me and I've got loads more info on the process. It's just too much to type up on here :).

:( I bid £3000 on it.

Sorry if I came across a little strong - just had someone yesterday night on the A406 with a HID conversion kit - annoying the **** out of me. Sorry again. Edit: Just so you know it's not the quailty of the HID Kit, it's the actual pattern of the HID. Most kits that utilize the reflectors would have hotspots in the beam which is what causes the "distracting/blinding" beam at night. I've seen so many cars with these hotspots which is why I'm totally against just slapping on a HID kit into a Halogen housing without the use of projectors, or a complete Headlight change. Sorry again for sounding aggressive :).

Using a HID Kit in a stock headlight with the reflector produces alot of uneven light. Cutoff point isn't sharp either, requiring you to lower the levelling of the beam. Have you ever cared to compare a stock HID cutoff along with your kit? Go do it, then you'll find out why I recommended the above. Your way not only daze's oncoming drivers on B Roads but also on dual carriageways and motorways. You may think you can see everything, but are you aware that you may be "distracting" oncoming traffic or even drivers in front of you? Also I suggest you do a bit of research on it, as there's LOADS of information out there that proves what I said. One such place being: http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/ Which involves ALOT of HID Fanatics, who do nothing but modify their headlights USING projectors and NOT the stock Halogen reflector due the above disadvantages I pointed out :). If you simply don't care about distracting other drivers then more power to you :).

With regards to HID, I can say one thing - DO NOT USE A KIT!! If you want to do a proper job of it, there's two ways to go about it: 1) HID Retrofit - pick up a set of Acura TL projectors (Honda Legend) and HID Kit from the USA for £250ish, then do a DIY retrofit ... this is the best way to do it in terms of price and output, etc. Projectors enable a MUCH better light output than reflectors (stock GS300 HID). 2) Pick up the stock GS300 HID lights, ballasts, etc and fit them on although autolevelling will not work. I'd personally go for the first option, as I'm looking at getting it done pretty soon myself with a set of Acura TL or Honda S2000/LS430 projectors with a colour mod. Hope that helps! :).

Oh excellent! :). If you get around to finding out which wire is for which speaker...let me know...I'm looking at doing a complete overhaul of the stock speaker/amp system whilst still using the stock touchscreen.

I'm pretty certain the stock SatNav just goes "black&blue" with green buttons and doesn't dim down fully? Or is that what you mean? lol.

Welcome to the club! 1st performance should be along the lines of: 1) Full system turbo-back exhaust with decat or race cats with GReddy Boost Cut Controller 2) FMIC 3) Boost Controller That should see you into the high 375-400bhp range...but also make sure you don't increase boost past 17psi. After the above or hell even before, make sure you upgrade the brakes with aftermarket two peice vented discs for the front with appropriate pads at the least...if you're not going to buy a BBK then go with the Supra calipers with the same as above (uprated discs/pads). Then sort out the bracing and coilovers. Then comes the part where you go single turbo, but not too large as the gearbox is prone to failure at high power levels...but then again that's a whole 'nother can of worms. Hope that helps! :). Most of the above can be done by just about anybody who is competant but Paul has listed down two reliable companies...another worth mentioning is Envy Performance. Talk to Gaz about anything and he'll go out of his way to help you out/advise you further.

Yep but the actual "log book" would not read Aristo Vertex V300 :P ;) The GS300 boot adjustment works on the Aristo too...that's all you'd have to do Aido to sort it out.

Hmm - if you mean the Vertex came with the spoiler then mine didn't (hehe) and NON-chrome 17" alloys...still a Vertex edition though. Gramps: I'm sure it would've stopped along with the production of the standard GS300...if I'm wrong just say :).

Sounds like it may be your Brake Master cylinder? (correct me if I'm wrong people), but it does cost a "large" amount to fixup IIRC. If it is then PM me, I may be able to help you out with a "source" :).