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shanra last won the day on February 20 2017

shanra had the most liked content!

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About shanra

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  • Lexus Model
    LS 400
  • Year of Lexus
  • UK/Ireland Location

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  1. I took it apart tonight and it was the alarm klaxon that was making the noise. I fiddled with the connection and sprayed Deoxit D5 on the connectors and it has stopped I hope!
  2. It does it when sat still without a key in the ignition and when running.
  3. Thanks Simon but it is definitely under the front wing. I will take the wheel off and splash guards and have a look tomorrow evening. I have to drive to London the next day so the sooner I can sort it out the better.
  4. I have an intermittent noise coming from under the drivers side front wing it sounds like an arc welder, it's electrical because it stops when the battery is disconnected. What's under there that could cause this? I have the battery disconnected as a safety precaution. I had my A/C guy fixing a leak and recharging when it first began but I think that may be a coincidence. Thanks in advance.
  5. Hi Hugh thanks for that but I have done it, it took me ages to find all the relative information and I'll do a write up when I have some time. I had looked at part of the LS 400 repair manual and it seemed to give me two different guides as to the width of the sealant bead which completely threw me, I ended up going with 2-3 mm as it made most sense.
  6. Well I now know this sealant has to be put on the centre of the pan and around the inside of the bolt holes but it's the thickness that's needed that I don't know. I know it's crucial to get it right as you don't want any sealant in the pan. Anybody?
  7. I did this before on my Soarer and it didn't leak whilst I had it the problem is it that whas so long ago I cannot remember how I applied the sealant. I must say the strainer was not that dirty but the pan had turned light grey and there were some small specks of metal so I think cleaning the pan may well turn out to be a good thing. If I had another LS 400 I must say I wouldn't bother (if it was a filter in there then I would) but the strainer is passing fluid through a metal gauze. The sealant will be on overnight before a refill and getting it to keep the seal I believe is in the preparation of the surfaces and as long as you don't let any fluid drip on the sealant whilst fitting I cannot see why it would not hold.
  8. I need to reseal this I have the correct Loctite 5660 just wondering do I need to just go around the inside of the pan mating surface and how thick does it need to be laid on. I took this off to change strainer and clean pan and boy do I wish I hadn't the filler tube was rusted where it meets dipstick tube so had to take the whole of it off and free it up, and now having trouble lining it up so as to get the right angle for the pan to go on without sealant fouling anything inside the transmission.
  9. I think this explains a lot.
  10. Took both sensors off and tested the heater elements and both not working, so I now know the problem and realise why the engine wasn't as smooth at tickover and took so long to drop to 650rpm. I think they've been defective for quite a while as they can be before throwing a code. The ht leads and plugs may well be kept in reserve always handy to have even if someone else may require them.
  11. I think what's forgotten at times is the effect that the brake shims etc have on noise I'd replace those if looking tired. I did when I replaced discs and pads (Lexus) all round and I have no noise to speak of.
  12. Well I warmed up car properly and the readings were for Ox 0.070 and for Ox1 2.3 and falling so very lean. I tried blocking off the air box with a couple of towels thinking this should induce a rich condition and the both sensors voltage barely moved. I've ordered two front sensors from Rockauto at around £80 and they are Delphi and have connectors so easy fitment. Managed to loosen one of the sensors but the other is proving more difficult and is soaking in Wd 40 and I will probably give the car a run and heat it up and hopefully it will be easier to remove as I don't want to round it off. I also ordered ht leads and plugs as the prices are so good and I've always felt the engine is not as smooth or as quiet as the same engine on my Soarer which was so quiet you didn't know whether it was running or not.
  13. I kept getting this and realised it was the same thing my mobile phone. It would also set itself off randomly when my car battery was getting near the end of it's life.
  14. With further reading it looks like I just need the upstream sensors as these must be the main ones unless someone can tell me otherwise. I can probably test them through the diagnostic port with E1 and Ox 1 etc.
  15. I had checked for trouble codes a couple of weeks ago and got nothing but thought I'd better have another go and two codes came up 21 main oxygen sensor signal left bank and 28 main oxygen sensor signal right bank. Well I'd better get them off and test them I suppose luckily I have the removal tool from my Soarer days. My question is if the mains are not within specs should I replace the subs at the same time? Cheapest route I guess is universal all round and splice them on to old plugs always Rockauto aswell.