Billnick

Aside from failing an MOT, I will also have my own OCD to contend with knowing the steps in the beam are the wrong way around lol I am going to experiment with painting my the chrome inserts on my existing factory units. Does anyone have any broken headlights laying around? Broken glass, broken tabs all acceptable as all I want is the chrome insert to experiment with a few paint jobs. I assume the glass and the chrome inserts are identical whether HID or Halogen? Ta

So I guess those UK buyers and Aus buyers are either unaware or don’t care.

But those steps shown in the top diagram will be the opposite direction to how they are now with my UK headlights right? Perhaps those buyers in UK & Aus having not had HIDs before would not have noticed they are the wrong way around and like you say, not blinded oncoming drivers? Do you think an MOT tester would tell they are non-compliant?

So what exactly does AFS do for us? Self levelling on startup + left/right when going around corners on the road. If 2011+ cars don't have AFS, they must still have self levelling else they would all fail the MOT right? If I lose the left and right but still pass the MOT then that's enough for me - so long as I can get the warning like removed from the instrument cluster. Still, this is all in hindsight as I am 99% sure the US lights wont be any good. Think I will just go back to the plan of painting my chrome inserts black.

I know, clutching at straws aren’t I.... I was hoping one of the UK or Aus buyers would pop up n give me some kind of good news. Would be just as difficult to sell them back to US also. Id really like to find out the part numbers according to the UK database. This would be confirmation and I’d be able to sleep again at night lol

He said that yes the AFS light will flash but AFS will still be working. so I guess I can remove the LED from the instrument cluster? im not fussed about losing the left/right auto movement going around corners (although it’s a cool feature) but up n down self levelling is an MOT requirement so that has to work.

Yeh I am prepared to lose the AFS and put up with the light too. Might end up getting the cluster our of the dash to remove the bulb seen as it becomes non-functional anyway. Putting my VIN into Toyodiy.com won't help I dont think? As it will just list parts for my 2008 car and I want to verify part numbers for the later 2011+ cars.

Tech One in Sidcup Derek (owner) was trained at Jemca Toyota before opening Tech One with his family. Used him on my Mk1 IS200 and now Mk2 IS250. Not the cheapest labour rate (£65 + VAT i think) but an honest guy and knows our cars VERY well.

Hi all, I have been chatting with a reputable US Lexus parts seller about a brand new set of OEM 2011+ headlights they are supplying as plug n play upgrade for 2006-2010. https://ebay.us/tHjg7p - this is the ebay listing He says he has sold 10 pairs to buyers in Australia and 2 pairs to buyers in the UK all without any bad feedback or complaints so he assumes all is good and plug n play as advertised. I wonder if any of those buyers are members on here?? If so, please provide me with your feedback on this purchase. My concern is buying headlights from the US and putting them onto my 2008 UK car: Projectors as I understand it, are still directional and RHD and LHD versions exist. Will fitting these headlights from the US to my UK car blind on coming drivers? Can anyone clear this up for me? The seller says he was unaware that projector headlights are RHD/LHD as he had not heard anything back from those UK or Aus buyers. Does anyone have access to OEM part numbers? The part numbers he is supplying are: 81145-53544 & 81185-53544, can anyone check the UK parts database to see if the numbers are the same? If they are different, I will not buy of course. I REALLY want to upgrade to these headlights, have done ever since I bought the car, will make so much difference. Many thanks for help in advance. Billy

Hi all, After I parked up at home following a long drive back from Bristol on Sunday, I noticed a mild smell of burning coming from the car. As I have had new brakes fitted recently I put it down to those wearing in after the long drive and thought no more. However, when I next started the car I have now got a whining noise coming from the engine bay which follows the engine speed. Only way I can describe it is like a really old gearbox whine but not as loud of course. I have taken the plastic covers off under the bonnet and by following the noise I am pretty sure it's one of the pulleys - which one I can't be sure. I could be seeing things but think I might be able to see the tensioner pulley wiggle very slightly from time to time - but could be my subconscious. I have tried to wiggle each pulley but they are all pretty tight with the belt still on so cant feel any play. Could the burning smell have been from the belt? Could a failing pulley cause the belt to rub/smell? Anyone have any advice of how to diagnose which pulley myself? That way I can just either do it myself, or save on diagnostic charges when I hand it to my garage. AC, Power Steering and Power all seem to working fine no faults...... yet. Car is 2008, done 70k and had a new water pump fitted 5,000 miles back. Thanks in advance for your help. Bill

ahmed24 how are you mate? I was wondering where you managed to get brand new 2012 headlights for £495? Do you know the part numbers please?

I have a 2008 SE-L with MM. Did the same thing, watched a DVD for 30 mins and voila, car wouldn't start! I am pretty sure though that the cars have a cut off point in charge levels under which it will not turn the starter motor. Frustrating as ALL of my electrics worked, but the car wouldn't turn over. Got a jump start and charged it overnight....then 3 weeks later wouldn't start again. Original 2008 battery done 60k so replaced it it's been fine since.

Agreed, being a perfectionist it does bother me that I didn't actually find the cause and fix it. Never mind, will just have to hope it doesn't come back, was fine for a few years after all. Thanks for all of your input.

Ok so today I removed the drivers door card to inspect the wiring and look for signs of a short, water ingress etc. All of the connections I soldered for the auto fold module seem intact and nothing touching etc. No signs of water or rusting either. I put it all back together and now cannot reproduce the error I was getting from the central locking. I did not remove the battery so the error I was getting must be due to a loose connection which corrected itself when I was moving around the wires. For now I will see how long it lasts and if it comes back will remove each connection and re-solder them. Maybe just a little blow in each of the multi plugs was what it needed....once can hope.

Ok so I will get the door card off and do a thorough visual inspection in the footwell also.