Mybikesacx500

I put it back http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ian.shearer/lexus/Throttle.pdf

Just changed the starter contacts on my '98 Mk 4, this should link to some pics https://picasaweb.google.com/108236429772687690224/Lexus98StarterContacts?authuser=0&feat=directlink Took me the best part of 3 days (ok I watched a bit of tennis, too) I take my hat of the those who can do it in a day, maybe I'm getting old.... I do have LPG, so there was more stuff to disconnect, work round. I have some respect for LPG fitters, they must have taken the manifold off, too I reconned the line of least effort was to change the contacts with the starter in position, because even if I got the rear water bridge off, I wasn't sure I would be able to get at the starter bolts with the tools I have. Some people bent up ring spanners, but I tried that, it doesn't work on a cold spanner, some welding torch heat required, I think. I took off the front water bridge so I could move the front/ rear water pipe out of the way, then cut off part of the wiring harness plastic cover. With a slightly ground down ring key I gor the shallow nuts that hold the contacts in. I have a 1/4 inch drive socket set, so the slimmer socket fitted the manifold nuts ok, better would have been a long torx bit on a 1/2 inch drive, as I was expecting the 1/4 extention to snap at any minute. The injector rails stay on the manifold, which is heavier than I was expecting. I felt I was punching above my weight on this one, I guess I cut my teeth on engines back in the day when they were much simpler, and smaller, ie minis and VW Beetles! Anyway, it burst into life when I had finished, and switched to LPG as per normal, so I got away with it, very much to my relief. With the battery disconnected for so long, I had a non functioning main display, asking for a code, which I didn't have. This club came to the rescue, with a post from 2008 by Redsteve, thank you, thank you. I will take the liberty of repeating the process to remove the code (if originally set) as I think it is a need bit of info for anyone working on the starter ! Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (combination meter warning lights illuminated) While pressing CLIMATE and AUDIO switches simultaneously, turn the HEADLIGHT CONTROL SWITCH in the following sequence: OFF~SIDE LIGHTS~OFF~SIDE LIGHTS~OFF~SIDE LIGHTS The SYSTEM CHECK will become displayed on the screen. It will take approx. 30 seconds for the check to be completed - the display will change from CHECKING to OK Once all the function checks display OK then press MENU. The one on the display, not the one on the dash The DIAGMENU will be displayed Starting with the AUDIO button, follow the sequence: AUDIO~DESTINATION~AUDIO~DESTINATION~AUDIO~DESTINATION The SECURITY menu will be displayed. Using the numeric keys enter 440215. Press ENTER The displaywill return to the DIAGMENU. Switch the IGNITION SWITCH to the OFF position. The security code is now cleared - the unit will operate normally. PLease ensure that a new security code is re-entered with the customers knowledge.

Well, actually my poor old Mk1 had (probably) a sticking shift solenoid that meant it went from 1st to 3rd when warm, does that count as broken?

Having spent far more time than I should looking into this, I finally ordered a code reader (cable and software) from Ebay. An "ordinary" OBD2 reader won't work as the port isn't fully compliant, this one uses what looks like original Toyota software and will work for a whole load of toyota vehicles. It also has an OBDII option, which I take it means it will also work as a reader on other compliant vehicles, though I haven't got a newer car to test it on. I wasn't sure if it was working properly,as I didn't get any codes, but it looks like I'm lucky enough not to have any at the moment. Rudd brought his car round and we got some codes, with descriptions, and cleared them, so it does the business. You have to do a scan first which takes 5 minutes, and the Options tag to reprogram little things like wether the key tilts or opens the roof didn't work. A search for "Mini VCI FOR TOYOTA TIS" on Ebay will bring them up. I went for a UK supplier in case it didn't work, but the overseas suppliers are cheaper! Beware the adds that say "not only provides commonly used J1962 connector, but also provides the old 22pin connector for Toyota." if it isn't actually in the pictures too, as it looks like they all copy each others text and I didn't actually get the extra cable. I pointed this out and the add has since changed. Bit miffed about that. I got this as I have just sold my Mk1 and got a MkVI- what a difference! I thought I enjoyed driving before

Cassette adapters work quite well, Ebay has loads. It's a cassette with a magnetic head that lines up with the tape head, much better quality than tape, and a mini jack

There will be lots of discussions on tyres if you use the search feature, I had the cheapest tyres I could find on my old LS, I believe winter tyres are better at not wearing out in warmer weather now, and at a pinch can be left on

My mew (to me) MKIV has a Prinns multi point system, and it is amazing, totaly impossible to tell wether it is on petrol or LPG, except for the lights telling you it has changed over, after about a mile on a cold engine, and pretty much instantly on a warm engine. A big tank means less fillups, but you will probably want a wheel- well one to keep the boot free for luggage.. My old Mk1 was lpg also, no lube. system needed

There are usually 4, two white for 12v for the heater, and two for the sensed voltage. I fitted 2 universal replacements once, but I can solder and I has to do a fair bit of googling for the wire colour codes

Looks like a great car, just make sure that you get an LPG certificate as your insurance may refuse to insure it unless you do. Same colour as mine, they realy look great all nice and clean and shiny. Lets us know how you get on. Mike I'll resurect this long subject to finish it off, I got on very well, thank you, bit of a journey to collect the car, but wonderful run home! It was everything it was advertised as, it's had £6k spent on her over the last few years, so I don't mind paying over the odds! I did indeed get the LPG cert. and needed it for the insurance. Brilliant car, well worth the effort to collect, anyone else thinking of upgrading to a MkIV, go for it.

Mine is just behind the petrol filler flap, not the pretiest, but very practical. Colour coding them helps with the looks

Iv'e swithered over quite a few, for a good while now, and that one ticked all the boxes and then some. It wasn't an auction, and I wasn't about to see someone else snatch it! I'm only impulsive after giving it a lot of thought. Yes nice 17" wheels, I have never had 2 sets of wheels, my first thoughts are to not spend the extra money- unless I can get them for less than the price of the tyres....

I have been looking for a MkIV with lpg for a while now, as my '92 Mk1 is getting on a bit and I've had it for 3 years. I was putting new leads and plugs on it last Saturday when I had a quick look to see if anything new was in, and saw this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220960914243?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 That was it, right colour, trim, service history, lpg, throw in fancy suspension units, a new gps that uses the built in screen, and a parrot phone thingie. It had been on for 2 hours, and it was what I wanted, so I bought it. Bit pricey at first view, but well looked after and extra toys, Going down to get it this Friday, back home with it Monday (via London visit) I will let you know how it goes... The new plugs and leads made a big difference, plus it's stoped the manifold blowing up.- one lead was intermitent open cct and the plugs all had a gap over 1mm

Depending on the year, Lexus's are OBD1 or OBD2, standard tester should work on OBD2, if OBD1, its a paperclip shorting contacts and read the flashing light proceedure

I had a bad coil, running rough, and red hot cats. If one coil is bad, removing the ht lead doesnt affect the engine running, as it's not working anyway, ie, if the left hand coil is bad and you disconnect it, the car will start and run the same as when it was connected, wheras if the right hand coil is faulty, disconecting the left hand coil will mean the car wont start at all. There is also a resistance mesurement test, my faulty one was out of spec.

There is a pipe runs down the back of the engine, its name escapes me for the moment, but it can split and is very difficult to access with the engine in (EGR pipe?)

I'd say 17 /25 mpg on LPG is good, My old single point system gets 12in town and 20 on a run, that's actual figures, people double these figures to get the "equivalant if using petrol" figures, so I recon I am geting nearer 40 MPG cost- wise

The Sensors have a heater in them, as they don't work until hot, and the exhaust gas itself takes a while to heat the sensor to its working temp. A second hand sensor is quite likely to have a faulty heater, although it can be easily checked with a multi-meter and the info on which lead is which ( there are 4, 2 for the heater, 2 for the sensor itself, I believe the sensor voltage is about 1 volt, varying dependent on the oxygen level.

I refurbed mine by hand over a year ago, with the tyres on, but I have recently had to take them off, get the tyres removed and clean and repaint the inner rims, as corosion where the tyre seals gave me 4 slow leaks, also round the valves, So if I was doing it again, I would get the tyres and valves removed. The inner surface where the valve seats is critical.

You can get a similar sort of effect by programing the 2nd drivers position to the same as the first, except for the mirror position, good if you are the only regular driver.

The proceedure has been posted before, open the boot and connect a trickle charger to the contacts inside the boot light!

Parking brake adjustment is not to hard, it's like the old drum brake setup, line up the hole with the adjuster and crank it round with a screwdriver blade. Did mine recently, I was expecting the 19 year old adjusters to be stiff or frozen, not at all, its a Lexus so they moved as if brand new

Well, Boils down to a new brake line, freeing up all the frozen brakes, and fitting 4 "second hand?) springs, then a good thrash down the motorway to get some carbon out the engine

To answer the question you asked, I don't think there is a way to read OBD2 codes other than with a reader, Ebay has some pretty neat ones that link to a laptop USB port, but I am a computer nut, perhaps that doesn't appeal to everyone. The codes I found on the internet are generic ones, I don't know if Lexus have modified their system or not. feel free to get in touch with details of the green '99

According to the spreadsheet I made earlier to calculate such things, there is an increase in circumference of 1.4% So the speedo will read lower by 1.4%, not really a problem, I would have thought. Theoretically, the taller sidewall will give a softer ride, whether it would be noticeable or not, I don't know

[Looked up the codes out of idle curiosity, If it was me, I'd be checking the knock sensor and wiring, maybe swap them across the banks, see if the codes change A code P0420 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / exhaust pipe Retarded spark timing The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry. There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor. A code P0325 most likely means one or more of the following has happened: The knock sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced There is a wiring short/fault in the knock sensor circuit