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About AndyCheltenham1

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  1. Thanks for details of a coil pack,I will keep the details in case I do need one. Looking on the USA forum there seems to be a lot of people that have had problems with stalling and rough idling but there are there are no simple solutions-you could end up replacing many items before you find the fault!! I started the car this morning and it started perfectly again and seems to be running smooth when go backwards and forwards. I will try it again tomorrow and take it for a run. I just did a diagnostic check using the paper clip method and there are no error codes showing at all ( not sure how accurate these old systems are )??
  2. My car has been running perfectly until last week when I was parking in a car park in a tight space and on full steering lock when the car stalled. It started up again no problem and after I 'd been shopping I drove home about 2 miles with no problem. The next day I started the car in the morning and it started perfectly, but when I put it into reverse to back out of the drive it stalled. It would not re start-the engine was turning over ok but just would not start. I left the car for a few days and when I went to start it it started up fine-I went forwards/backwards a few feet and all seemed ok. I didn't drive the car as I need to reverse onto a very busy road and can't chance that stalling half way out onto the road. I got a mobile mechanic to come and look at it a few days later-once again it started perfectly ok. He thought it could be the throttle body/valve causing the problem so cleaned it all out. He said it was pretty gummed up so was hopeful this would cure the problem. Once he was finished I took the car out on about a 2 mile trip and all was good. Went to start it again today and it started instantly but when I put it into reverse- to me it was idling a bit rough and lumpy and again I wouldn't want to drive it like that. I asked the mechanic whether it could be a fuel problem but he said unlikely as it WAS running well while he was working on it. The only work carried out recently was I had all the spark plugs and wires changed ( about 4 months ago ) and it has been running fine since then. Any ideas what the problem could be?? Andy
  3. My opinion on this is that even though you only had a 1 year warranty the parts should not have failed so quickly and that they were not fit for purpose. If I were to buy a deep freezer with a 1 year guarantee and it packed up after the guarantee had expired I can still go back to the retailer up to 6 years after purchase and expect a repair or refund as it is unreasonable to expect it to last only 1 year ( even if the warranty was only for 1 year) If I had bought a kettle for £10 and it failed 2 years later it would be unreasonable to expect a repair/refund on a cheap item. So I think that compensation should be due from Lexus for supplying inferior parts. I think that you will have a problem maybe because you actually fitted the wrong part and could it be argued that a competent mechanic/exhaust fitter should have known the part was incorrect and should not have fitted it?? If Lexus had also fitted the part then I think they would be 100% at fault.
  4. I've got it booked in for Friday for the mechanic to sort out ( I did try and remove the centre console inner bit to get to the proximity sensor but struggled to get it out-if I carried on I know I would break something, I'm too clumsy to tinker with cars) I've disconnected the battery so at least it'll be quiet for the next few days
  5. My alarm decided to go off for no reason this afternoon and then again at 4 o'clock this morning-didn't stay on for long, maybe about 10 seconds, but enough to wake me up!! Does turning down the proximity sensor(under centre console) sort the problem or could it be something else? The battery is about 3 years old so should be ok. Can the alarm just be deactivated to sort the problem out once and for all or will that affect the immobiliser? I'm not bothered about having the alarm working as a theft deterrent I just want to stop it going off at anti-social hours and annoying me and the neighbours?
  6. Thanks for all your comments and very interesting guides for how to fit them from Simon(timonline) and Steve2006. It seems that the job can be relatively easy or could cause problems with the potential to cause some damage. I think the Denso plugs I seen on ebay may not be original parts due to the low price so will give them a miss. When I have it serviced in a few weeks I will see what the mechanic thinks but at the moment I'm probably 50/50 whether to change them now or hold on a bit longer and avoid any potential problems.
  7. I have a 1993 LS400 that has done 101000 miles. The spark plugs were changed about 12 years ago at around 60/65000 miles by the previous owner . I've had the car for 10 years and the engine is still running fine. I've put off replacing the spark plugs as the car is running perfectly ok. Is the replacement down to miles or length of time-if they need changing every 60000 miles does that mean I should not replace them until 120000 miles ( even though they will have been in the car for many years by then) ??? The main ones on ebay seem to be NGK or Denso Iridium Power(£57 for 8)-is there much difference between the two makes? Any idea of how long a job it is to change all 8 plugs? Thanks for any advice.
  8. Mark-I've now managed to order 2 from Ebay USA for £27 which will give me a spare one in case I lose another one!! I was going to get the one from JapParts at £30 for just one but when I tried to order it they said it was out of stock. Thanks Mark
  9. From my understanding all air conditioning systems lose at least 10% of gas per year (more if you use it frequently) so are amazed that you can go several years without topping up and still keep your car cool??
  10. I've had my LS400 just over 10 years and have had it topped up 5 times, so I have it topped up every 2 years. It's not faulty or leaking but at the end of the two years there is a definite drop in how cold it is. I do use it all the time even in winter. I'll be having mine topped up again in the next few days to keep it nice and cold. The specialist I have used said topping it up every two years is about right.
  11. Thanks John-it's not like those wheels, mine are the older wheels. Thanks Mark-my wheels are like yours in the picture (car looks in amazing condition!!). The part number on the back is 8325 and it is 190mm across. i know there is another one that looks exactly the same but is only 160mm across so too small.
  12. I have lost one of my centre cap hubs (went on a trip on Saturday and it was ok when I left but when I got back it was missing-I assume it has worked its way loose ) so now have only 3 on the car so are now trying to get a replacement. I've got the original 16" wheels on it still and they are immaculate as I had them refurbished last year. I've been on ebay without any luck as most of the cars being broken up are from newer models and they wont fit (they are 160mm but mine are 195mm ). The only place that I've found that has got one is JapParts but they want £30 for one!! Any suggestions where I might get one without being screwed over by JapParts??
  13. I've bought a lot of stuff from RockAuto in the past for my Cadillac and they've been good and reliable. The thing that put me off using them again was when I wanted to order a seal off them for about £1.00 or less and the carriage was £20!! The seal was so tiny and light they could have posted it easily for a fraction of the cost but they totally refused to do so-they insisted on charging me £21 for a £1 part!! Needless to say I didn't order the part from them and have not used them again due to their attitude and poor customer care on this occasion.
  14. Maybe the Lucas additive is the best solution for me-nothing to lose by trying it.
  15. The garage finally looked at my car this morning and have dismantled all around the pump and have said that the only area that is slightly damp( but not a major leak) is around the pressure/vacuum switch that is attached to the pump. They said that the alternator is bone dry with no fluids on it at all. They said that the switch is not available to order seperately and weren't sure if I bought a new pump whether this switch would be included?? Their advice is to leave for now but just keep an eye on it as if it is losing fluid it is only slight and because the alternator is still dry and hopefully not affected by this slight seepage. I'll leave it for now I think and see how it goes??