Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


plastic orange

Established Member
  • Posts

    516
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

 Content Type 

Profiles

Forums

Events

Store

Gallery

Tutorials

Lexus Owners Club

Gold Membership Discounts

Lexus Owners Club Video

News & Articles

Everything posted by plastic orange

  1. I think I've found the leak, and it's not where I thought. As has been suggested I had a look in the boot after reading about an RX400 with water ingress, and yes, It's coming from the rear. So, now to fix it, but not till next week. I did however clear out some light debris which had gone under the plastic trim adjacent to rear lights and water ingress seems minimal now. We've been plagued with torrential showers here over the last few days, and this has actually helped to pinpoint the problem. i don't relish drying the carpets though, Pete
  2. I can't believe how much water is in the car as there was a veritable river coming out the floor bungs when I removed them. I've run 3mm strimmer wire down sunroof drains again and flushed water down and it's escaping quickly. I've looked at a few u tube vids on the process of sorting things, and basically it's a very poor design and will probably affect everyone. Apparently the sun roof drain doesn't go to the ground, but into a box section behind the wing which can't be accessed. It is when this blocks that water pours inside. I've poked wire down the hole on the inside of the car, but I can't see if I'm doing any good. I've also blasted compressed air down there to hopefully clear any blockage. I've repeatedly hosed the car and there is no water coming out this box section overflow, so I'm stumped. The best solution to be belts and braces is to remove A post trims, remove the sun roof drain hose from the box (cut) and extend it to go directly through the floor through a grommet. I can't see the car drying without a full carpet removal though, and i basically don't need the hassle, but will have to do it. Unfortunately, more heavy rain is forecast and I'm off to get a new centre silencer fitted to it tomorrow. I think it's time is up with me.
  3. My wife has owned this 2005 RX 300 for 4 years now and all has been good until 2/3 weeks ago when we noticed a bit of damp in front footwells. I dried this off and investigated possibilities of where it was coming from and had a good look on line for solutions. Water isn't coming from sunroof drains as they seem clear (I passed a strimmer cord down with no obstruction and water flowed freely) nor air conditioning pipe. Fast forward to a torrential downpour last night which has resulted in all footwells absolutely drenched. Normally, I would suspect water coming from the scuttle area with drains blocked, but I can't see any, so I'm at a loss. Any suggestions? I'm used to running cars of the 50's, and this RX leaks worse than anything of that vintage - is this progress? The last car I had that leaked like this was a lovely Golf GTi mk 2 (sold as soon as leak started). Strange that the leak only started 2 or 3 weeks ago which does suggest something blocked. Cheers, Pete
  4. My wife's RX starting doing this a few years ago, so I bought replacement struts from SGS, but these were too strong and tailgate kept doing this. After a bit of negotiation I got ones from them that were lower rated and these work fine until we get a hot day and it happens again. We've learned to live with it as it's not too problematic, and how many really hot days do we get. Pete
  5. If anyone wants me to take a look at the car in Dundee, just ask. Pete
  6. Ah well, replaced the wrong one, so will do the other side now. Everyone agreed with me that it was the offside, but just goes to show how difficult it is to pinpoint bearing noise. Pete
  7. No play in any bearing, but I think I've pinned it down to the replaced bearing - sods law, cheers, Pete
  8. I've tried all the usual things, so I'll be taking a punt at the side that was replaced 3 years ago as it sounds noisiest from there. If I'm wrong then so be it. It's starting to get annoying now even though it's my wife's car. Pete
  9. I fitted fancy (expensive) silicon blades a while ago and they were noisy if screen wasn't lubricated. I could only stand it for so long, so I've got the cheapy aero ones that get replaced annually. Pete
  10. I replaced a front wheel bearing (O/S)around 3 years ago and it's done about 12,000 miles since. Unfortunately, wheel bearing noise has returned, and from the drivers seat it appears to be that one again, but I'm not sure. It also sounds noisy from passenger side, but not quite as much as driver's side. I left it with my usual repairer and he said he can't tell either and didn't want to do the wrong one. It would make sense that I should replace the opposite to what was done previously, but it certainly sounds like the O/S again. This was replaced with quality bearings, but nowadays, everything is of poorer quality so I'm in a quandary. it doesn't help that the wheel can't be spun to listen for bearing roughness as car is 4wd. There is no wear discernible ether side when car jacked up. Any ideas? Pete
  11. I wasn't impressed with Blueprint discs (or pads) as they didn't last long before the dreaded wheel wobble. i fitted pagid items and they've already outlasted the blueprint ones and were a similar price. Pete
  12. I've owned my 1999 Lexus LS400 for 9 years now and in 47 years of car ownership it has probably been the best value for money out of any car I've had. It cost me 2600 pounds back then and is probably worth 1500 now, and probably going up in value, so depreciation of about 120 quid a year can't be bad. Consumables haven't been too many, and barring suspensions parts hasn't cost too much. Only problems I'm getting just now is corrosion above windscreen and some electrical components coming to the end of their life. It still polishes up well and provides relaxing transport anywhere. I suppose the only real comparison is with pre mid 90 mercs which were similarly bullet proof. I've never been a Ford man and like others here preferred the offerings of BL - particularly the Rovers. I had a really nice Rover p6B for 14 years with rust the main problem, but very similar to the Lexus in a lot of other ways. I think I may spend a bit on a general tidy up rather than getting a newer LS as I'd not get a 10 year old one now for what I paid for mine in 2009. Pete
  13. I use mobil 1 0-40, doesn't leak and doesn't use any oil at 174,000 miles. Pete
  14. I had a notion for an Elgrand too, but never followed it up. I had a look at one last week that was in for an mot at my friend's garage and whilst not the best example, seemed pretty good. However, i'm not sure if my wife would drive it as they are quite van like. Regarding Lexus reliability, the only every day cars I've had that come close was a Merc 190E (last of decent mercs) and my trusty Rover p6B. Pete
  15. Wheel wobble while braking points to discs needing either cleaned or replaced. Only discs I've fitted that lasted ok so far are pagid. Blueprint ones wobble started at 10k, and lexus ones needed replaced at 25k. I'd check them along with ensuring wheel mating surface is perfectly flat. Pete
  16. We've had our RX 300 for just over 3 years now and my wife loves it. Main downside is fuel consumption - best of 28 on a long run and in winter in town 18. They are not very well protected underneath and get quite rusty, so check there. Gearchange can get confused at times and it's not the most powerful engine for a 3 litre, but it is pulling 2 tons. It has been pretty reliable with just the expected consumables which have been reasonably priced. It's a great car for transporting grand kids. Pete
  17. There are plenty hot rod and american car guys in the UK that bring stuff in for people in the UK. It costs approx what the dollar price is in pounds delivered (slightly more now due to the state of the pound). Rock Auto is very useful too and delivery is quick. Recently i paid 230 pounds for a new power steering rack for my chevy (Ford Thunderbird rack from speedway motors via Duksville). There are always folk with containers needing to be filled. Pete
  18. I'm in a similar position with my 1999 dhp model. Bodywork and interior are really good apart from some rust creeping along the top of windscreen which will be a window out job to do properly (they all seem to suffer from this) and underside just needs a tidy up. It is however the electrical glitches which are attacking it just now, and getting spares from a similar aged vehicle would probably fail. When the next thing fails, I just weigh up if it is liveable or not and so far it is, but it really puts me off putting money into the car as I'll be expecting another failure. So far, the air con doesn't work, sat nav failed, steering adjust recently failed (adjusted wheel to desired position by removing motor, moving position and reattached). Suspension needs work (front UCA's), and I can't find new dhp springs as one has broken at the bottom. For next mot it will also need some brake pipes. I only use the car now for longer trips as it's my economy car lol, but I have 4 other cars to look after too - my wife's RX 300, a 53 chevy bel air and 2 x V8 Morris minors. Surprisingly, everything is available off the shelf for my 3 1950's cars, and reasonably priced compared to the Lexus. I really like the LS, and have had it for 9 years, and it could relatively easily be made mint, but should I? Pete
  19. Mine stopped working 4 years ago so just assumed it was low on refrigerant. I had it checked at ATS and they said system was fully pressurised and that they couldn't do anything with it. When I switch on A/C the revs change and pump engages, but not cold air. I checked pressure was in system by quickly pressing shraeder valve and there was pressure. I've just learned to live without, but it would be nice to get it working, but for the 1 day of heat in supposedly the sunniest city in the UK possibly not worth the hassle . PO
  20. It seems impossible to get new dhp springs, so I'd guess it's got standard springs fitted - unless of course the only thing DHP is the wheels, Tyres do look the wrong profile too, but it does have the colour coded grille which was a DHP feature. I believe the part wood wheel was an option. Pete
  21. Normally i'd agree, but winter tyres on the front driving wheels make a huge different in the snow compared to summer tyres. I know 4 should be fitted as best practise, but my son in law with front winters on a Renault Clio got places some 4 x 4's were getting stuck. Pete
  22. I'm sure I was charged £150 to fix the starter - plus the cost of the new contacts. I too went down the checking battery route etc, but when it eventually failed to start it was a relay job to the garage. Like most things on these cars, if they are showing a problem at X age or mileage, rest assured it will happen to you - or so it seems lol. Pete
  23. Costco in Aberdeen refused to fit winter tyres to the front of my daughter's front wheel drive car (replacing winter tyres) as they said there should be 4 fitted and would only fit them on the rear. I couldn't see their logic. So she now has summer tyres on front and winters on the rear. I realise that it's best to fit 4, but the summers weren't near replacement time, but will be replaced in due course by winters. Pete
×
×
  • Create New...