ColinBarber

Personally I'd go AWD for the extra performance. If that isn't a factor for you there are other reasons: I've not driven the FWD NX but 240 bhp just through the front wheels means it will struggle for grip on occasions if you put your foot hard down, and I suspect you will also get some torque steer. Moving 50 bhp to the rear will help here. The AWD helps with traction and stability, it isn't just about acceleration. The AWD system isn't a mechanical one with a centre diff so keeping all tyres at a consistent thread depth isn't critical - you can just replace front/rear tyres. VED isn't based on emissions so there isn't a penalty here. With the previous generation NX the FWD model was just an entry level grade so hardly any were sold. With the current generation you can get FWD across multiple grades but it still sells in very small numbers - less than 1 in 20. I suspect if you order one it will definitely be built to order with a long waiting time, whereas popular options are sometimes pre-ordered by Lexus GB to reduce wait times. Given the lack of popularity I'd also question resale value on the FWD models - although if you are purchasing on PCP or leasing this isn't a concern.

Lexus use Thule for their official bars but went out of production a long time ago now - so either look on eBay for a used set or maybe settle for a generic type. TigerFish had success with GS series III bars on his series II: These are still available: https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-gs-phase-3-cross-bars/

It's part of the airbag system - the airbag sensors will trigger the bag(s) to deploy and also signal to the engine ECU to turn off the fuel pump.

Front-mid means the centre mass of the engine is behind the front axle, which it is on the LFA as the engine is set back quite far.

Windsor Safari Park 🐒

Yes

At least one person who had a similar fault checked the CAN modules and the power back door module was offline - don't know whether the whole module was dead or the fault is related to the CAN bus electronics within it. Yes.

16, it is stated in the owners manual and the parts catalogue for the European spec UX. 20 is used in the non-hybrid version of the engine (not available in the UK).

If you deviate the profile away from standard type-approved sizes for the UX then you will need to inform your insurance company of a modification and understand you will create an error in your speedo.

I doubt they would introduce such a major change outside of a new model or possible a facelift year. AWD itself has been available for some time on the ES in the US but not with a hybrid drivetrain.

Lexus does, you just need the correct cable. https://www.lexus-tech.eu/DiagnosticTools/Setup

Front fog lights are supplied via the 15A FR FOG fuse and a relay. You should check the voltage is getting to the relay and is being switched through when you hear the click - it could still be a faulty relay. The rear fogs (assuming this is a European car with built-in rear fog lights and not a Japanese import) don't go through a relay - they get power via the 20A ECU-B1 and 7.5A ECU-B2 fuses. If they don't work with those fuses intact then there is a wiring issue or fault with the switch itself.

Look for leaking shock and check the brake discs/pads for wear as they are expensive to replace. Otherwise just check normal things - accident damage, even tyre wear, drives and brakes straight, gearbox shifts correctly through all gears etc. If it has a Lexus dealer service within the last 12 months you have Relax warranty coverage which will cover the major mechanical components.

That is a far from ideal response but I can understand the logic. The battery will be discharged through lack of use, which would affect its capacity and ability to maintain a charge - 12v lead acid batteries do not like being deep discharged. In the eye of the battery manufacturer, this isn't a warranty issue because it isn't a manufacturing defect, it has inadvertently been user damaged. I'd argue that a vehicle isn't fit for purpose if you cannot go on holiday for two weeks, so you will have some recourse if you wanted to threaten or take up legal action. However, just replacing the battery with a new one doesn't solve the issue, and I doubt there is room to fit one with a larger capacity.

I just looked back at my Fuelly stats when I had a 400h and it would achieve 32-33 mpg on longer runs - I'd expect similar with an RX350, but once you get over 70-75 mph then you economy will start to drop off quite considerably due to the size and aerodynamic shape of the RX. It's certainly the case that the hybrid benefits are mainly below 50 mph, especially for older Toyota generation 2 hybrid system that the RX400h had - there isn't much assistance that can be provided at higher speed, and very little regeneration braking going on. Many of the differences between hybrid and normally aspirated balance themselves out - e.g. 400h is heavier but the 350 has higher drivetrain losses. Aircon, whether it is electrically driven or mechanically via a clutch use about the same amount of energy. Therefore high speed economy is roughly the same. This is how Lexus US positioned the two: Q: How should I choose between an RX 350 and an RX 400h hybrid? A: If most of your driving is highway cruising or you leave your vehicle parked for several weeks at a time, the RX 350 may best meet your needs. If most of your driving is stop-and-go city and you want improved acceleration and fuel economy, the RX 400h may best meet your needs.

Either way, it’s not as if Lexus owners don’t suffer battery issues if the car isn’t used much. We have hundreds of examples on these forums.

Those codes are engine faults - nothing to do with headlights (turbo boost control, MAF, EGR valve). Either you have disconnected something to gain access, damaged a cable or blown fuses.

Wouldn’t be the first time such things happened.

Admiral now has all the grades available to select. Direct Line still has nothing!

It can be time consuming to find the source of the issue, certainly to the point where it isn't worth getting a main dealer at £200 per hour to diagnose the issue. An auto electrician should be able to help. You can DIY - you need to left a door open, but fool the car into thinking it is shut, then lock it and wait an hour for all the systems to sleep. Then you measure the voltage drop across the fuses to see which circuit is consuming too much power - then you can hopefully narrow down the problem. Typically it is stereos/amps, alarms or third party trackers/dash cams that cause the issue. Here's the procedure to measure the voltage drop across the fuses. You shouldn't remove fuses - it can cause systems to wake which makes finding the issue harder.

The RAV4 and NX share the same platform and drivetrain - the RX is different, although the current RX350h and RX450h+ share the same drivetrain as the NX/RAV4.

You are better to search for the term clock spring. You can get third party ones from around £50 on eBay. If you want a genuine part then I'd recommend importing from Amayama for around £250.

I would suspect there are electronics not in the vehicle if it doesn't have that option. Is the windscreen camera even in the housing?

Yep, for the ones made in Japan - although duration/cost will be less.

Probably a large labour charge to diagnose the issue and charge to fit the new one given the manufacturer is paying.