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ColinBarber

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Posts posted by ColinBarber

  1. 33 minutes ago, Chassis said:

    though there are two CAN lines (pin5 and pin6) that might have some influence. 

    At least one person who had a similar fault checked the CAN modules and the power back door module was offline - don't know whether the whole module was dead or the fault is related to the CAN bus electronics within it.

     

    34 minutes ago, Chassis said:

    If I have to replace the lift motor/ECU assembly, can I just do so without any programming?

    Yes.

  2. 8 hours ago, Ian J. Parsley said:

    I am aware of the potential for an AWD option (or even, potentially, that AWD will be standard).

    I doubt they would introduce such a major change outside of a new model or possible a facelift year. AWD itself has been available for some time on the ES in the US but not with a hybrid drivetrain.

  3. Front fog lights are supplied via the 15A FR FOG fuse and a relay. You should check the voltage is getting to the relay and is being switched through when you hear the click - it could still be a faulty relay.

    The rear fogs (assuming this is a European car with built-in rear fog lights and not a Japanese import) don't go through a relay - they get power via the 20A ECU-B1 and 7.5A ECU-B2 fuses. If they don't work with those fuses intact then there is a wiring issue or fault with the switch itself.

  4. Look for leaking shock and check the brake discs/pads for wear as they are expensive to replace. Otherwise just check normal things - accident damage, even tyre wear, drives and brakes straight, gearbox shifts correctly through all gears etc.

    If it has a Lexus dealer service within the last 12 months you have Relax warranty coverage which will cover the major mechanical components.

    • Like 1
  5. 1 hour ago, Gregory Z said:

    Today afeter speaking to Twickenham Lexus been told that due to very low milage - 2600 the warranty will not cover it should they have to replace it. I'm amazed by such reaponse .. any one has got similar reponse/ experience ? 

    That is a far from ideal response but I can understand the logic. The Battery will be discharged through lack of use, which would affect its capacity and ability to maintain a charge - 12v lead acid batteries do not like being deep discharged. In the eye of the Battery manufacturer, this isn't a warranty issue because it isn't a manufacturing defect, it has inadvertently been user damaged.

    I'd argue that a vehicle isn't fit for purpose if you cannot go on holiday for two weeks, so you will have some recourse if you wanted to threaten or take up legal action. However, just replacing the Battery with a new one doesn't solve the issue, and I doubt there is room to fit one with a larger capacity.

  6. On 4/6/2024 at 9:19 PM, katabrontes said:

    My 2006 RX 350 averages about 24-25 mpg over a variety of uses.  However on a recent motorway run in France over about 300km it averaged 26mpg.  Others regularly claim much better figures for RX400 or 450.

    Given that the hybrids have the disadvantage of carrying heavy batteries and, at motorway speeds rely entirely on the petrol engine to drive them how are these figures obtained.  Could it be regenerative braking which makes the difference - I am not sure how and I hardly touched the brakes on this motorway trip and used cruise control set at 130 kph throughout.  Could it be that certain accessories (eg Aircon compressor) might be driven electrically on the hybrids - I don't know about this?  Could it be the effect of the permanent AWD on the 350?  
     

    I just looked back at my Fuelly stats when I had a 400h and it would achieve 32-33 mpg on longer runs - I'd expect similar with an RX350, but once you get over 70-75 mph then you economy will start to drop off quite considerably due to the size and aerodynamic shape of the RX.

    It's certainly the case that the hybrid benefits are mainly below 50 mph, especially for older Toyota generation 2 hybrid system that the RX400h had - there isn't much assistance that can be provided at higher speed, and very little regeneration braking going on. Many of the differences between hybrid and normally aspirated balance themselves out - e.g. 400h is heavier but the 350 has higher drivetrain losses. Aircon, whether it is electrically driven or mechanically via a clutch use about the same amount of energy. Therefore high speed economy is roughly the same.

    This is how Lexus US positioned the two:

    Q: How should I choose between an RX 350 and an RX 400h hybrid?

    A: If most of your driving is highway cruising or you leave your vehicle parked for several weeks at a time, the RX 350 may best meet your needs. If most of your driving is stop-and-go city and you want improved acceleration and fuel economy, the RX 400h may best meet your needs.

  7. 7 hours ago, Latvian Lexus said:

    Codes- P0045; P0102; P0488.I have checked fuses and conncections but still every time i clear the codes they pop up back imediatly. Maybe you have some solutions?

    Those codes are engine faults - nothing to do with headlights (turbo boost control, MAF, EGR valve). Either you have disconnected something to gain access, damaged a cable or blown fuses. 

  8. 8 hours ago, stepppy said:

    I do remember there was a time when I was first looking at the NX around the time they made some changes to specifications and the website had quite a few specification anomalies which wasn’t very helpful. 

    Wouldn’t be the first time such things happened. 
     

     

  9. It can be time consuming to find the source of the issue, certainly to the point where it isn't worth getting a main dealer at £200 per hour to diagnose the issue. An auto electrician should be able to help.

    You can DIY - you need to left a door open, but fool the car into thinking it is shut, then lock it and wait an hour for all the systems to sleep. Then you measure the voltage drop across the fuses to see which circuit is consuming too much power - then you can hopefully narrow down the problem. Typically it is stereos/amps, alarms or third party trackers/dash cams that cause the issue.

    Here's the procedure to measure the voltage drop across the fuses. You shouldn't remove fuses - it can cause systems to wake which makes finding the issue harder.

     

     

  10. 22 minutes ago, Greisingel said:

    New RAV4 compares most closely with which RX in your opinion?

    I like the look of the new RAV

    Assume it is the same Hybrid system as the RXs. Good MPG? Feel solid on the road? They look quite beefy. I ask as in the south east the roads are infested with potholes

     

    The RAV4 and NX share the same platform and drivetrain - the RX is different, although the current RX350h and RX450h+ share the same drivetrain as the NX/RAV4.

    • Thanks 1
  11. 2 minutes ago, peniole said:

    Agreed, but that charge still applies to a percentage of us sold vehicles depending on factory capacity vs actual North American sales, doesn't it?

    Yep, for the ones made in Japan - although duration/cost will be less.

  12. 3 minutes ago, peniole said:

    Correct, but usa destination charges have little to do with reality. Lexus us destination charges for the es were $1150 while uk destination charge is £700.

    Understood but I'm referring to the £1,000 cost to Toyota per vehicle to put it on a RORO ship and take it from Japan to Bristol in addition to all the other charges.

  13. 18 minutes ago, peniole said:

    You're still 2.1k worse off. Not bad in comparison to other manufacturers where the price difference is much higher, but worse off to when there was actual price parity on the ES.

    There is a 10% import tax into Europe/UK from Japan. The ES for the US market is manufactured there so no import tax. Shipping charges will also be more expensive to the UK. European/UK consumer laws also make it more expensive to do business that in the US.

    Ultimately the price isn't based on cost of manufacture, it is based on what the market will bare.

  14. 19 minutes ago, EEH said:

    I have had the car checked out with Toyota and they say nothing is wrong with the battery, just needs to be driven on longer drives to charge it properly. I am even scared to use heated seats, steering wheel and interior lights at any stage, not even when the car is in "ready mode"

    You shouldn't use heated seats or steering wheel or any in fact even the radio when it isn't in Ready mode. Once it is in Ready Mode then it makes no difference what you switch on as the power is coming from the hybrid system, not the 12v Battery.

     

    4 hours ago, EEH said:

    Was told by my local Toyota mechanic even leaving the car in "ready" mode charges but very slowly, so even an hour doing this is not sufficient. 

    It charges at around 5 to 8 amps. It makes no difference if the vehicle is just sat in Ready mode or being driven. 

     

    15 hours ago, EEH said:

    My biggest concern is the top of the range model Im looking at has a load more features on it than the Yaris which could be more draining to the 12v Battery and flatten it quicker?

    This isn't an issue. The vehicle is able to generate 100+ amps @ 12v from the hybrid system. With less that 10 amps going to charging the 12v Battery, you have more than enough to use all the features of the vehicle.

     

     

    If you are using your vehicle daily then it doesn't really matter on the journey length, you just need around 1 to 2 hours of the vehicle being in Ready mode per week. As you potentially use it less than that then you may experience the same issues and your Yaris. Make sure your key isn't left near the vehicle (e.g. by the front door with the vehicle on the driveway) as if the two can communicate with each other it can cause the Battery to discharge faster. You could also consider disabling smart entry completely from the vehicle's menu which would help and also prevent the possibility of a relay attack theft.

    • Like 1
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