hotwheels

The removal of the DPF filter element is second on my list at the moment with first being the installation of a new clutch. I would like to remove the cats that are fitted in the car with a high flow one or removed them completely if the noise coming exhaust isn't too loud at a later point. Does anybody know the diameter of the exhaust's pipe? Thanks G.

Any suggestions on where to find a non bank breaking flywheel replacement for my 2007 220d? I have got a fairly priced OEM clutch kit and release bearing but the prices I hear for the Flywheels are 800GBP or 1100EURO, VAT excluded. Cheers G.

Hej Przemek, did the guys fitted a DPF emulator as this one http://fap-dpf.pl/emulatory when they removed the dpf? If not how did they managed to trick the ecu? Cheers G.

Hi Ozren, what example do you need mate? I don't want to spend money in dynoing the car. I finally bought one from TMC motorsport and I highly recommend it. The car really flies now, maybe it isn't up to 212 horses but it feels as if it has 200 for sure. I beat easily my friend's bmw 120d m sport with the 177 bhp which is about 200 kg less. I still have some slight turbolag before 1800 rpm but on its way to me is a sprint booster http://www.ramtuning.gr/product2.php?cat=sprint booster&brand=&id=210 which will help the revs pick up faster before the turbo starts to whistle... My next big plan is to get rid of the bloody dpf, i have found a company in Poland which manufactures and supplies dpf emulators for various vehicles that the ecu cannot be altered. Here is the emulator itself, http://fap-dpf.pl/emulatory and here is the process of installing it to a avensis http://fap-dpf.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?id=253 I was in contact with them and they send me the price list and inctructions how to fit it. All attached for your reference. Unfortunately I'm based in Ireland and the guys that do dpf removals here are afraid to touch densos, they just tell you, i'm sorry I can't. When I try to explain that you can fit the emulator to send the right signals to the ecu it is too difficult for them and they simply refuse. Cheers G. emulatorfapdpf.zip

Guys, the tuning boxes that connect only to the common rail and increase the fuel pressure aren't as effective as the one above which also control and adjust the boost pressure. Please do your research and you will understand what i mean.

HKS Hybrid filter, washable and excelent filtering with low air restriction. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HKS-Super-Hybrid-Air-Filter-Lexus-2006-2007-IS250-IS350-/170738838882?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ALexus%7CModel%3AIS250&vxp=mtr&hash=item27c0d3ed62 Have it for around a year in the car, fits in the strandard airbox. Rgds G.

I few months ago I bought one of the ebay tuning boxes that cost me 150 euro including delivery to Ireland. I tested it a bit and have the setting at 4 where the car seemed to run good. I noticed some improvement but after 2 - 3 days with the box connected the car is starting to feel the same as without the box so I have disconected it. By researching around I think the best option tuning boxes are the ones which connect to the common rail and also to the boost sensor in order to adjust the boost according to the fuel injected. From what I understand they are not adjustable. The multichannel boxes I have found are the following: Lindop Toyota one: £375.00 212 bhp and 470N/m http://www.lindoptoyota.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=67 DTUK: £431.10 205bhp and 470N/m http://www.diesel-performance.co.uk/vehicle-toyota_avensis_2.2-d-4d-d-cat-177ps Speed Buster: euro489 222 bhp and 460N/m http://www.speed-buster.de/chiptuning-box/chiptuning/lexus/lexus-is/ Steinbauer: euro1.050 211 bhp and 480N/m http://www.steinbauer.cc/neu/index.php?car_engine=16499 Another one for 299 pound, 212bhp and 480N/m http://www.tmcmotors...arProducts.aspx Is anybody using any of the above? Are you aware of any other brands? Thanks G.

Hi Ulisse, I have an oil vapor catch tank I want to install this weekend. Did you install yours the eco-friendly way or the non-friendly way? What I mean is, did you connect the second pipe coming from the tank to the existing air intake hole or are you letting the fumes out? On this the guy has taken the outlet pipe of the tank under the car and towards the back of the car so that nothing gets back in the intake.

Good work, now lower it I'm planning to lower it in February - March after the snow (if there will be any this year). The springs of choice are H&R 35mm drop front and rear. To be honest I'm very sceptic of lowering this car after driving a very low Alfa 156 for 5 years. I'm afraid i'm going to lose some of the comfort that I missed with the Alfa but I think I'm going to make that sacrifice because the 220d handles very bad at that height. It looks like a 4x4 next to 3 or 5 series bmw. For now I want to change the italian made tuning box (120 euro) I have which performs kind of ok for a german made (229 euro) race-chip . I have also ready to install a oil catch tank Just be aware that lowering by 35mm will put the camber just outside of the Lexus geometry tolerances. Mine was lowered just over 38mm at the front and required camber adjusters to be fitted as there's no camber (or caster) adjustment on the second generation Is's, only toe adjustment. thanks for the advice, if i remember well you had installed camber adjusters in your 250. i will keep that in mind when i will be getting the springs was looking for cars with extreme camber and came across this :o

Good work, now lower it I'm planning to lower it in February - March after the snow (if there will be any this year). The springs of choice are H&R 35mm drop front and rear. To be honest I'm very sceptic of lowering this car after driving a very low Alfa 156 for 5 years. I'm afraid i'm going to lose some of the comfort that I missed with the Alfa but I think I'm going to make that sacrifice because the 220d handles very bad at that height. It looks like a 4x4 next to 3 or 5 series bmw. For now I want to change the italian made tuning box (120 euro) I have which performs kind of ok for a german made (229 euro) race-chip . I have also ready to install a oil catch tank

thanks for the comments, well she loves me but not that much..... she was at her mother's for 3 days, when she was back on Sunday evening everything was clean and the house was smelling floor cleaner that was an old hairdryer she (thought) had thrown away some time ago but i kept it thinking that i might need it for the project. it does help speeding up the drying of the primer coats.

The steps were: * Remove all paint with Nitromors * sand with 120 * 1 full coat of etch primer straight on the metal (U-POL) * 2 coats of filling primer * sand 1st coat of primer with 400 * sand 2nd coat of primer with 2000 * around 3 coats of paint on the front side of the wheel * 1 good coat at the inside of the wheel * 2 - 3 coats of clear laquer Rgds George

last ones

some more

Here are some photos of my alloy wheel painting project.

Thanks for the feedback. You are right about the mileage, it wouldn't be bad at all. What confuses me is that there are so many sellers selling conversion to non-DM kits. If it was that bad to convert to non DM they wouldn't sell them and they wouldn't be so popular. I won't change the clutch and DMF as long as they still function. For now I have a set of two new rear bearing hubs, a set of ferodo pads and waiting for 2 cross drilled discs to arrive from US plus a standard service. Thanks everybody for your comments and advice. G.T.

I would appreciate if could provide me with the part numbers. Did you finally solve the crunching/rattling problem? If yes, what was the culprit? I got all kind of strange noises coming from the gearbox, especially when the car gets very warm. Cheers George

Hi chuckie, Thanks for the advice regarding the avensis compatibility. Can I assume that an avensis clutch will also fit the 220d? The majority of the sellers on ebay sell conversion to non DMF kits with prices ranging from 200 to 450 pounds for everything which I guess is very good. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trkparms=65%253A12%257C66%253A2%257C39%253A1%257C72%253A5251&rt=nc&_nkw=AVENSIS%20FLYWHEEL&_dmpt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&_ipg=100&_trksid=m194&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSRCHX:SRCH

Hi, I bought the car after the standard warranty had ended and I don't have an extended warranty. Rgds G.T.

Hi Matus, Thanks for your feedback. I have a quite loud whirring noise when on standstill/neutral i release and depress the clutch, it is louder when the clutch pedal is released. This is getting much worse when the car gets warmer. It is slipping almost on every gear but it is worst when on a slight uphill with 3rd - 4rd gear. I bought the car with 95k miles 1 year ago. Even though the car has full Lexus service history before me it was driven by a woman. Women do love to give a nice bit of excersise to the clutch.... With 1000 -1100 euro I'm planning to do everything, flywheel, clutch kit and labour. 400 USD for flywheel, 500 euro for the clutch kit and the rest for labour. There are many people on the US Lexus forum which they change for lighetend flywheels and stage 2 or stage 3 clutches and they notice some slight vibrations. I just want to get a lightened Non DM flywheel which will help with the poor take off of the first - second gears and a standard clutch. I don't want to go crazy with racing clutches or anything. A lightened flywheel will help with acceleration which our cars suffer from due to the weird gear ratios. The flywheel I'm looking is made by a very well known and reputable Japanese company. Whoever knows PLEASE let me know if the 250 clutch and flywheel will fit a 220d? Cheers G.T.

My car has now 110,800 miles. I was talking recently with a Toyota mechanic and he said that the life expectancy of the clutch is about 100 - 110k miles so I'm thinking of what options I have. I know the DMF would also need to be changed and that the original costs 2 - 3 thousands euro.... I have found a lightened aluminium, non dual mass flywheel for 400 USD which weighs 1/3 of the standard one, it is for the IS250 though. My question, will it fit the 220d? Cheers G.T.

My car has developed the same problem. it happens only when taking off with 1st. Not every time but maybe once every 5 - 6 take offs. With the cluctch and flywheel at 110k miles i think they are due for replacement.

On this video the guy has blocked the EGR no 2 or is it no 1? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8Zzp8Ew7O8&feature=related One egr on the top right hand side of the engine, second one left hand side close to the turbo.

Hi there, had something similar. possible causes: 1). clutch/flywheel/clutch bearing 2). front wheel bearings( noise will increase when the car is turning right or left 3). warped brake discs/pads 4). unevenly worn tires I got a set of cross drilled discs and ferodo pads on the front, huge improvement. 4 new tyres, some difference. I have changed so far 2 front wheel bearings (very expensive), slight decrease in whinning. I have also 2 rear bearings still to put on (waiting to change them together with ferodo pads and discs for cross drilled ones same as front). The most whinning i think is coming from the clutch/ and DM flywheel. My car has 110k miles so it is due for a change as a toyota mechanic told me that this is how much they last. Rgds G.T.

Have you considered installing a thicker/bigger intercooler on the lower front part of the bumper? There is a lot of space there. I know the standard one is quite big in length and width but not thick enough and located behind the AC condenser. it should be directly behind the front grill for maximum cooling effect. By the search I have done it shouldn't very difficult to pass the inlet and outlet pipes to that lower part of the bumper. A very nice project on this link: http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/forced-induction/12016-project-intercooler-upgrade.html