sprinter2012

When you say 'straight through' do you mean they are taking out all the catalytic converters and stuff? That's not normally recommended on NA cars as you lose the 'scavenging' effect of the exhaust because they exit the pipe too fast. The end result being a very slight increase in high rpm bhp, but a loss in torque. Sometimes even a loss in both. As for air filters, if you have an IS300 with the 2JZ engine, I would say go for the full K&N induction kit. It looks great and will make it sound so much better.

^^^Good shout, coilovers are an excellent addition to the IS200/IS300. They will improve the handling massively over stock, and if you drop if a few centimetres it will look much better too.

If you want a really good exhaust that sounds awesome then grab yourself one of these... I always wanted one, but they are about £600 after import costs. However when this little beauty came up for sale from another member I couldn't resist it at only £250!

Sounds like the TRD front lip would be right up your street. There's one on a car being broken on eBay here... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-IS200-BREAKING-/140783147206?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3ALexus&hash=item20c75458c6#ht_873wt_1396 They are only about £125 direct from Toyota/Lexus though, so they are not ahrd to find :)

I would think your best bet is to ring around some breakers yards, they are bound to have one in silver. Also, is it just bodywork damage? As if they hit you hard enough to smash the bumper and bonnet they might have damaged the radiator. You might be lucky and it's okay, but best to check as you don't want to be miles away from home and have the car overheat!

Here's a video of what mine does... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hl4YsXjEGY4

I can't comment on the percentages as I don't know any of the techinical bits for the TB. But I can confirm that it is supposed to sound like that, it's just the springs and the two halves of the butterfly vavle system (cable operated and servo operated) catching up with each other and moving around. I know it sounds like it's broken, but that's just how it is. lol

It's for the heating element. They don't have a full heated screen like Ford/Jaguar, but if you look along the thick black section at the bottom of the screen you will see small black lines in it. It basically de-ices the part of the screen under the wipers to stop them getting stuck

Just send a PM to this member... http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showuser=25182 And he should be able to sort you out :)

We have a forum sponsor, MeisterR who does very good prices on coilovers which you can set at anything from OEM to absolutely slammed. And very good value compared to a lot of other brands!

And here's some of the praise they are getting over in the states...

Right guys, time for my next upgrade/mod! I am in the process of ordering, after having a chat with Mike from FIGS, a set of caliper brackets that will allow me to mount my stock calipers further out, enabling me to run 323mm UK Spec Supra discs instead of the 296mm stock ones. It really is a no brainer if you're thinking about a brake upgrade for an IS200/IS300/Altezza. My reasons for going for this upgrade over doing the whole Supra caliper upgrade are as follows. No chopping bits off or removing the dust guard You don't have to remove or bleed the brake lines Useable stopping power is virtually identical to the Supra TT calipers, as the tyres become a limiting factor if you go any higher WAY cheaper to buy and maintain Better modulation/pedal feel while braking Installation Intallation is simple on these. It's only two steps more than changing your brake rotors during a normal brake job. (Three if you're adding SS lines when you do it.) -Once your car is lifted securely with the wheels removed you will unbolt & remove the caliper just like when you're changing pads. *If you're doing brake lines now is the time to do it. * -Remove pads & pad clips from the caliper bracket. You'll need the pad clips for the new bracket. -Remove the 2-17mm bolts that hold the bracket & remove bracket. -Remove stock rotor from hub -Bend back top & bottom of dust sheild approx. 1/4 inch to clear TT rotor (I left these on as they aid in cooling) -place Supra rotor on hub & check dust sheild clearance. Once ok procede. -either remove slide pins from stock caliper bracket & press into new caliper bracket **or** press new slide pins into new caliper bracket (pay attention top & bottom are different) -install new caliper bracket (pay attention to right & left sides) -install pad clips & pads -replace caliper & bleed brakes -bed pads & enjoy. And a small quote from a guy who has done his maths... I've already ordered the Supra discs and new front pads, and I've also decided to fit new rubber boots and slide pins while I'm at it. Also just to note, Mike has done me a good deal on this set, as my intention is that once you guys see what a great upgrade this is, we can then organise a group buy with FIGS. So just to summarise: Stock IS200 Calipers, Stock IS200 Pads, UK Supra Discs These are not my pictures, but here are a few I found on an american forum to show the brackets, and how the Supra discs look with OEM 17" wheels fitted...

cheers for the replies, but ive had coileys before, coileys are designed for track fast road? all the ones ive owned have been incredibly hard riding, i cant see how seeting meister r's to soft would replicate oem road comfort? unless ive just not experienced it? As above, I would highly recommend the MeisterR Coilovers. They are specifically designed for the IS200/IS300 to retain the factory ride comfort by running slightly lighter springs than most coilies, but have 36 (I think) levels of damping adjustment. Everything from super soft to rock hard so you can make them as comfy or sporty as you like. Really can't beat them for the IS200, me and 2 guys from another forum both have them and they are great.

The blower will switch automatically to recirculate if you turn the temperature dial below a certain number of degrees (about 18 I think) because it's easier for the car to cool air that's already been cooled once than to keep sucking in air at 25 degrees. You'll see that if you turn the temperature gauge back up slowly the light will switch back over to take in air from outside.

I don't think there are any shops that sell them, a member on here made a batch ages ago. So you basically just have to keep an eye on the forums, and check eBay to see when a set come up for sale.

To be honest I think it would be much more realistic to just do the front bumper as it's the only unique part out of the kit. The skirts would just be fibreglass replicas of stuff that's already probably on eBay. The rear bumper is VERY similar to a kit which again, is available as fibreglass copies already. The front bumper is the only bit which isn't already available in some form, so it's the only part worth making really.

White writing on a white background = invisible. But I still don't get it...lol

I pay mine monthly so it's a bit more, but if I paid in one go mine would be about £800, and that's fully comp with 3 years no claims as a 21 year old with both my parents on it. (for an IS200) And that's with Admiral, they come out top of every search I do by quite a long way! I won't get insurance from Adrian Flux just on principal now, even with 3 years no claims they won't insure me on my IS200 so I won't be going back to them in future.

2000bhp eh WOW! lol I want one of them haha, getting confused between the cost and the power increase there!

haha, all things are relative...

1. You get a lot of car for the money, how many other cars of the same value give you stuff like climate control, heated seats, 6 speed gearbox etc. 2. It's a pretty good looking saloon if you ask me 3. Rear wheel drive, no point having 150hp if it's all going through the front wheels 4. The straight 6 sounds lovely 5. Because it's so economic to run...oh no, wait....

There's a place on eBay that will supply and fit another 1G-FE engine for about a grand. Then you can keep the one you have now to fix up and work on outside the car? 300bhp out of an IS200 will be more hassle than it's worth really, you'll either need a turbo or an engine swap, neither of which are cheap. The TTE supercharger kit is the only 'easy' way of making more power, it's a bolt on job which takes a few hours and gets you up to 200bhp, but it's still about £2000 and nobody that owns one wants to sell it! Most parts in the supercharger kit are easy to buy/make. But the cradle that holds the supercharger itself is hard to manufacture, but funnily enough I've just decided I'm going to give it a go myself at work so. EDIT: 200hp, not 2000hp...

I don't think he ever actually posted up the exact settings, all he did was tell us he had fixed it. If you want the actual settings you will have to either go to WIM, or buy the settings to use elsewhere.

Personally I think people will want to see proper pictures of what the bodykit will look like before they think about spending any money.

From what he said in an earlier post, all rights to the use and ownership of the moulds/design would belong to the company who is doing the work in return for subsidised pricing. They are perfectly capable of making individual items once they have the moulds, but what he means is that the initial order will have to be for 5 complete kits to make it cost effective.