Chuckie888

Presumably the EGR fault you would receive after blanking it was mapped out and thus you do not know if it is the EGR causing a fault which would usually throw up a DTC.

Petrol version is a gasoline direct injection GDI system and thus suffers from carbon build up. 

Engine was made in Poland me thinks.

Air Intake leak?

It's an all alloy engine and thus probably warped the head from overheating.

It's not only what the car is "worth", it is the cost to change and who knows how reliable the replacement is?  I think a lot of the dissatisfaction with these cars is because of a lack of knowledge on how the causes and fixes of problems.  I used to moan about mine going into limp mode due to DPF problems but it turns out it was leaking a slight bit of air into the intake system and the ECU detected the MAF readings were out (too lean).  KYB replacement shocks were a lot cheaper than the orfiginals.  I do not drive it much now, but when I do I appreciate the style and comfort.  Still has poor lights(halogen not xenon) and gear change sometimes though.

pressure test the cooling system for leaks?

If it is hissing fumes then one or more injectors aren't seated (sealed) properly.  Are the injectors level?  - has someone not bothered to take out a sealing ring and just put a new one on top then an injector on top of that?  Are the clamps clamping down the injectors tight?

Things I can remember: - 

1. De-gass before removal.
2. The bolts are not all equal - different lengths and one is not a normal bolt - torx too maybe.  Look at the manual it's quite easy to follow

Piezo electric injector failure? When warm they short circuit

I had the limp mode check engine light on a few occasions. Checked the codes and thought it was the dpf. Upon further investigation on trchstream i noticed it was a dpf code p2002 but actually telling me that it was a maf low reading. New maf required? Thought i'd just tighten the turbo housing before i bought one and hey presto no more errors or 2 secs of howling when first started on a cold morning. All because of an induction leak. The housing seems tight, but i gave it a little extra anyway.

Changing an injector is pretty straightword on the 2.2d engine, unless it's been leaking for a while and coked up. Should be 30 mins to an hour if straightfoward. Getting the seal out may be trickier

Basically @60-80k the DPF will be full of ash which cann

Need to clean off the brake dust to stop squealing

After considerable time, effort and expense changing my ball joints and shock absorbers, greasing the anti roll bar bushings etc. I got rid of my clunk by replacing the front slide pins and the rubber ring around it after cleaning the receptor and lubing all the pins generously with Toyota Rubber Grease.  Silicon grease didn't work and copper grease swells the rubber which then splits.

Good info to know.  Does anyone have a link to TS sw for IS220d?  Mine has petrol only options - US ver?

Sure your pins are free and greased? You need red rubber grease

Changed the fronts too, but wish I stuck with the old Toki shocks which were giving a great ride with the new rears. KYBs a bit more crashy. 85% as good but less than half the price.

Brake caliper sliding pin has a rubber bush which deteriorates and causes too much free play and the groaning noise - weird.

Update: couldn't remove pulley in situ or even when I took the compressor off the car! Bought a new compressor in the end after cutting my hands twice!  Ridiculous - all because of worn rubber bits that can't be replaced.

Creaking clutch is probably a worn clutch fork pivot ball. Can try greasing, but it'll come back !  Clutch pedal free play adjustment needed to help with release bearing noise

I get low to high 40's depending on the mix.  A few mid 50's even, when driving like a saint. Avg 47mpg over 70K and 7years with 118 fill ups.  MFA indicates 48mpg as I have a EcoTune tuning box - indicates 44mpg without (less than actual!).

I cruise in 6th when the dials turn orange to warn me I'm speeding (indicated 75mph, actual 70mph).

Same here.  Changed my ball joints, but it still does it slightly.  Will change the links next as they are cheap and seemed quite "loose"

Changed the rears on mine - failed (leaked) withing a month of each other.  A bit of a pig of a job really!  It should be far easier to change a shock!  I got KYBs as they are considerably cheaper than the Toki

I bought the belt and it does fit - thanks!

I then proceeded to take the damn air con compressor "clutch" off - this is a pig as there isn't any info available.

I believe the compressor to be a Denso 6seu16c but with a strange clucth mech.  Unlike older units the bit at the end which looks like a bolt is not a bolt and the pulley is fragile plastic!  Anyway, put the original bet back on then jamn the pulley with a bit of wood, insert some 90 degree pliers into the hole and then you can spin off the cover plate in an anti-clockwise direction.  This leaves the clutch and pulley etc in place still and so I believe you then need to get some strong thread locking compound and then put the plate back on, let the compound set and then redo the above, this time taking the clutch with you.  Unfortunately I didn't know this and so I hacked mine as you can see!  The pulley pulls of easily after that and the rubber "cushions" too.  Mine looked in good shape and so I was a bit bemused as to why the metal on metal noise was happening.  On the compressor there was a bit of movement, but not much so the tolerance must be tiny.

I think the new parts needed are:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/Klimakompressor-Riemenscheibe-TOYOTA-Avensis-2-0-2-2-D-4D-2-2-D-CAT-T25-5SE12C/252786772968?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&_trksid=p5197.c100068.m2280&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211130857%26meid%3D0b41566dc81b40b79e8aa9b34cfc9524%26pid%3D100068%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D252785703770%26clkid%3D3884581167474673682&_qi=RTM2063750