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Everything posted by Chuckie888

  1. Vsc Check / Traction Control / Engine Management

    Basically @60-80k the DPF will be full of ash which cann
  2. brembo brakes

    Need to clean off the brake dust to stop squealing
  3. Is250 knocking when braking and steering

    After considerable time, effort and expense changing my ball joints and shock absorbers, greasing the anti roll bar bushings etc. I got rid of my clunk by replacing the front slide pins and the rubber ring around it after cleaning the receptor and lubing all the pins generously with Toyota Rubber Grease. Silicon grease didn't work and copper grease swells the rubber which then splits.
  4. P2002 fault code help

    Good info to know. Does anyone have a link to TS sw for IS220d? Mine has petrol only options - US ver?
  5. Brake Shudder

    Sure your pins are free and greased? You need red rubber grease
  6. Replacement Shocks

    Changed the fronts too, but wish I stuck with the old Toki shocks which were giving a great ride with the new rears. KYBs a bit more crashy. 85% as good but less than half the price.
  7. Loud Creaking Noise When Braking

    Brake caliper sliding pin has a rubber bush which deteriorates and causes too much free play and the groaning noise - weird.
  8. Update: couldn't remove pulley in situ or even when I took the compressor off the car! Bought a new compressor in the end after cutting my hands twice! Ridiculous - all because of worn rubber bits that can't be replaced.
  9. Noisy Clutch

    Creaking clutch is probably a worn clutch fork pivot ball. Can try greasing, but it'll come back ! Clutch pedal free play adjustment needed to help with release bearing noise
  10. is220d MPG

    I get low to high 40's depending on the mix. A few mid 50's even, when driving like a saint. Avg 47mpg over 70K and 7years with 118 fill ups. MFA indicates 48mpg as I have a EcoTune tuning box - indicates 44mpg without (less than actual!). I cruise in 6th when the dials turn orange to warn me I'm speeding (indicated 75mph, actual 70mph).
  11. Loud Creaking Noise When Braking

    Same here. Changed my ball joints, but it still does it slightly. Will change the links next as they are cheap and seemed quite "loose"
  12. Replacement Shocks

    Changed the rears on mine - failed (leaked) withing a month of each other. A bit of a pig of a job really! It should be far easier to change a shock! I got KYBs as they are considerably cheaper than the Toki
  13. I bought the belt and it does fit - thanks! I then proceeded to take the damn air con compressor "clutch" off - this is a pig as there isn't any info available. I believe the compressor to be a Denso 6seu16c but with a strange clucth mech. Unlike older units the bit at the end which looks like a bolt is not a bolt and the pulley is fragile plastic! Anyway, put the original bet back on then jamn the pulley with a bit of wood, insert some 90 degree pliers into the hole and then you can spin off the cover plate in an anti-clockwise direction. This leaves the clutch and pulley etc in place still and so I believe you then need to get some strong thread locking compound and then put the plate back on, let the compound set and then redo the above, this time taking the clutch with you. Unfortunately I didn't know this and so I hacked mine as you can see! The pulley pulls of easily after that and the rubber "cushions" too. Mine looked in good shape and so I was a bit bemused as to why the metal on metal noise was happening. On the compressor there was a bit of movement, but not much so the tolerance must be tiny. I think the new parts needed are:
  14. Is 250 Brake Calipers

    My OSR had seized and the disc was only half getting clean. I took it off, applied some heat to dismantle, cleaned up the rust and re-lubed. Not aesthetically pleasing, but they now work a treat.
  15. Dmf And Clutch

    I've never been able to find much info on this, but I think the flywheel and release bearing are different. If I keep mine for another year I will try getting a flywheel from Central Europe for about £450.
  16. Are the pipes to the pressure differentialvalve/monitor clean or dirty, giving a false reading? EGR /Intake clean?
  17. Is220d Egr Bypass

    This will send your car into Limp mode - I've tried it. I can vaguely recall a connection to dump valve pressure and so the solution is more complicated and involves divertin fresh air into the valve rather than blanking.
  18. White Smoke Intermittent

    Your DPF is full of soot. Soot doesn't burn off. Get it cleaned. You did well to get to that milage - mine went at 81K.
  19. Lexus Is220D Problem

    I think there are several contributing factors: 1) EGR dirty 2) Intake Manifold dirty. (likely if EGR is). This will be harder to clean and will cause the mixture to be rich (ECU thinks there is more air than actual from the MAF) 3) DPF clogged. This cloggs at around 80K depending on your usage and oil. Will need replacing or cleaning out 4) Pressure differential sensor to DPF may be partially clogged giving false readings and causing frequent re-gens (lower mpg) 5) Dirty Injectors. A de-coke(>3500 rpm for 6-8 mins) session with additives may clear this and cause a DPF re-gen 6) Stop-Start motoring - it's a heavy, powerful car. My motoring has changed from urban(22 mile commute) mixed(40 mile commute) to mainly motorway (90 mile commute) and the fuel consumption has increased from 38 to 42 and is now at 48-50. It was built for the motorway at speeds of (indicated) 75 mph or more in 6th gear. Lexus have even defaulted the dials to turn orange when this happens! ;-) Lol
  20. Lexus Is220D Dual Mass Flywheel Replacement

    Where did you get this info from?
  21. Acceleration

    Is it the same hot or cold?
  22. Can you just physically block the 5th injectors fuel line? The electronics would then tell the valve to open, but fuel would be injected. The pressure diff sensor would presumably never give a high difference (blocked) reading with the DPF guts taken out?
  23. Rough Gear Changes, Manual Transmission

    I'm pretty sure the Avensis DMF fits but don't want to be the first to try!! It's half the price. The clutch will be different though or at least the release bearing, if not all.
  24. Is250 Auto Lpg Conversion

    There are direct injection kits out there but they are expensive. Some can split the proportions so that, say 10%, is petrol and 90% LPG so you are running your petrol injectors all the time and don't fry them. Be careful, there are lot's of cowboy LPG installers out there - I know from bitter experience!
  25. Rough Gear Changes, Manual Transmission

    Sounds like it's the DMF on it's way out. Try altering your driving style so that instead of just lifting off the accelerator immediately, you level it out - i.e. keep the revs flat for a 1/2 sec and then press the clutch. (e.g. accelerate to 2500 rpm then hold it there before pressing the clutch). Make sure you lift off the gas then press the clutch - the arrangement of the pedals makes this more difficult than you would think. Examine and analyse this. Sometimes you press the clutch before lifting off the gas due to the pedal arrangement (clutch is high and gas is low!) I believe it's the worn springs not reacting to the massive abrupt change in torque. If you do the above then it handles it better (has more time to adjust). Please let us know if it works for you. It has for me, but ultimately it's a DMF change and possibly a propshaft gasket if you get the cruise control resume 'thunk' too.