rayaans

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Everything posted by rayaans

  1. Definitely not normal behaviour. You can actually sit in the rear without putting the belt on, it won't go off unless you buckle up and then take it off mid-journey
  2. Yep, that'll be running into the thousands. Lots of sensors and explosives need replacing. It'll be going through insurance i imagine
  3. Only applies to manufacturer warranty. Doesn't apply to PCP because it's a separate contract and its the finance companies vehicle, not yours so they can state that they want Lexus history or they'll reduce the Final value etc.
  4. The IS is a huge seller in America so unlikely it'll get removed from the lineup. It should stay RWD too
  5. I suspect the new IS will be coming out very soon - i.e. 2020
  6. Yes. Lexus fluctuate their prices fairly often based on what the GBP and import taxes are doing
  7. As above, no air suspension on RX models of that generation unless they are of SE-L spec. RX400h all have standard springs regardless of spec
  8. Whilst thats true, I think the minimum tread depth on Lexus approved used cars is around 5-6mm. They'll change the tyres if below that so they take this into account on trade in. They'll also reduce their px amount by Lexus prices to cover themselves, its always cheaper to get them changed and then p/x
  9. True, thus why Ive always been told to match brake discs and pads from the same manufacturer
  10. Sounds about right really. Lexus changed the alloy of the wheels between 2009 and 2011. Hence why none of the standard alloys of the 3rd gen RXs and later don't suffer from this issue unless seriously neglected. Basically Id be confident in saying any Lexus after 2012 with standard alloys, not diamond cut is fairly resistant to corrosion. Ive had a few since 2012 and they are immaculate, even with kerb marks
  11. Firstly, they aren't Lexus CT200h wheels, they're aftermarket ones. The PCD on a CT200h is 5x100 whereas on an IS200 its 5x114.3 so you would need adapters to fit the wheel on. They centre bore is also different and would need adapters too.
  12. Nemesis is correct - providing its extended periods of time. Neutral is actually only there to be able to move the vehicle without driving it. i.e. rolling etc
  13. Unfortunately part and parcel of having high performance brakes, Audis seem to suffer really badly, especially the RS model
  14. The dealers Ive traded my car in to always looked at the tyres to see if they were premium branded or not and wrote it down on handover. They expect that some buyers will ask them to change budget tyres out to premium ones. Go with a premium tyre, doesn't have to be matching to the rears.
  15. Except the advice nowadays is not to warm the vehicle up for more than 30s. They warm up quicker during normal driving anyway
  16. Had 10k miles on it when bought at 2 years old. We've got 3 cars in the house now so the IS barely gets used like 2k a year always garaged and serviced each year too
  17. I dont use tfr. Don't see the point of using a stronger wash when I'm going to use a tar remover anyway? Just means I need more products And much prefer using tar remover on each panel rather than washing the whole car in a stronger wash affecting the rubbers and plastics etc
  18. The brown stuff on clay is usually tar deposits. Tar remover will remove all of that if used properly so the clay should theoretically be clean which for me it usually is. I've never needed to use a stronger wash. Shouldn't really need to in any circumstance in my opinion unless you're working on maybe a 10-15 year old car
  19. I don't worry about fairy liquid on paint. It's the rubber and plastics it tends to dry out.
  20. I wouldn't worry about it tbh. Just use the shampoo you're using currently
  21. The AG tar remover is quite poor, especially the bottle top - takes too long to work as its designed for the consumer market i.e. needs to be idiot proof and not stain plastics etc. A more potent tar remover like Powermaxed Tar off is probably what you need as tar literally runs off the panel
  22. I've been a massive fan of DetailedOnline products really - very effective and good value for money. The main things you need are tar remover, fallout remover and claybar - you may or may not need lube depending on the product. I use Bilt Hamber medium clay with water. Tar remover - only do one panel at a time, leave to dwell for 1-2 minutes and wipe with microfibre, then rinse off. It also bleaches plastic so be careful.
  23. So essentially S-flow means the air only comes out through the front vents if the front 2 doors are opened. Priority being given to the driver if no passenger is sensed to be in the car. If the rear ones are opened, or the car senses someone is in the seats i.e. through fastening of the seatbelt etc, the S-flow will switch off automatically so that all passengers can have some air flow. The s-flow switch is in the infotainment system, theres no physical switch.
  24. Advise is correct regarding bedding the tyres in - they take a fair few miles to become "normal" and can feel skiddish before that. Tyre inflation is fairly easy to check so do that first
  25. GFV moves around loads depending on who you get your car finance from etc. Its not accurate at all. When enquiring for finance just to see what the figures were like, the GFV on my current RX was something like £25k after 3 years. The car is 3 years old and they're selling for £33-35 and WBAC are giving around £30k. The dealer was actually saying the best way to PCP a car from Lexus is to pay the final payment and then trade it in lol