J Henderson

This could easily be solved by unbolting the wiper arm, and then refitting it one spline further round. The only thing is, it might mean the wipers will then be further "up" the windscreen when in the parked position.

The 2nd-Gen IS only sprays the Headlamps on the initial pull of the wash/wipe stalk. But there's a separate button to operate them (independently), anytime you like.

Agreed, also. My experience is exactly the opposite in my 2nd-Gen IS. I have two wheel & tyre packages that I swap between, and the CC2s are way quieter and softer-riding compared to the "normal" set of tyres (Michelin PS4, in my case). The PS4s will definitely exhibit some of the issues being mentioned - tramlining & wandering on uneven surfaces or painted lines etc, but not the CrossClimates. My only complaint with them is that they're a lot slower to respond to steering inputs.

Thomas seems quite impressed.

Unfortunately, I did. Two weeks ago! You're right though. It's probably a rare occurrence for most people. That was my first one in 33 years of driving.

Seems more like outright penny-pinching if, as mentioned earlier, a 2020 NX300h had all 4 handles illuminated. Yet, now a top-spec 450h+ doesn't. The omission of spare wheel, jack etc is an industry-wide thing nowadays? I don't know anyone with a modern car that came with a spare wheel. Getting rid is probably an effort to save weight and earn lower g/km ratings and better fuel economy.

With Toyota in 2nd place. Won't be a surprise to the people of this forum of course, but it appears buying an recent Audi is a bit of a gamble. What Car Reliability Survey

None. But the whole LS project was codenamed "F1" aka "Flagship 1" during it's development.

Also an "F1" car.

Not sure how you can prevent that noise then since new discs will also have a bit of play in the holes. I'm still confused how the movement is even possible with a wheel bolted down on it. I've tried to work it out, but I can't! 🤔 Perhaps adjusting the parking brake shoes so they're dragging ever so slightly might help.

I wonder how many accidents occur in Ireland each year due to their non-yellow rear number plates... And how do Americans cope with some of their states requiring no front plate at all. 🙄

Didn't know the reason why, being honest. Just knew any other setup was illegal. Unless the car in question was old enough to wear black/silver plates.

Cars that I remember my Dad owning during my childhood; 1967 or 68 (was an "F" reg) Vauxhall Viva HB Not too many memories of this other than it was light blue. 1970 Ford Escort 1.1 Estate Was dark blue, not red. Most significant thing I recall is that it eventually gained a 1.3 engine, but mated to the original 1100cc gearbox & diff, which made it quite nippy. 1973 Vauxhall Victor FE Was exactly like this. Yellow with black vinyl roof (remember those). Most memorable journey was travelling from Devon back to Scotland with a heavy foot, in time to watch the 1982 World Cup final on telly. 1978 Ford Escort Estate 1.3 Another one. Same colour as this and with the square headlights. I think it must've been a proper base model as it only had 12" wheels. Had additional Yale locks in the doors as the previous keeper owned a VHS rental store. 1987 Ford Sierra Sapphire 1.6L Was a burgundy colour, and a "D" registration. I pretty-much learned to drive in this car as my Dad would regularly take me out in it at night with L-plates. I'd probably racked up a couple of thousand miles in it by the time I sat my test. Had a pretty nice sounding stereo, with little joystick to alter the fade & balance. Sunroof too. Of course there's been others after these, but I started buying my own cars at this point. 🙂

Sounds like nothing is missing then. What about the shims for the pads? There should be 2 sets. The outer silver one that you can easily see in that picture. Plus, there's another black one that fits underneath.

You've been driving Crossover/SUV or whatever your whole life then? For the longest time, a saloon was pretty much the only thing on sale.

Got this old pic showing the "slop" on an OEM disc after about 50k miles. It could be that the pads are moving around, or worse, the top and bottom locating pins, if any of those little retaining clips are missing. The ones that look like they're made out of a wire coat hanger.

Very tidy. Have you discovered what that thing under the air vent is yet? 🙂

In the case of Michelin CrossClimate 2s, this doesn't appear to be a factor. I had a set fitted last July (lol) and removed them last week due to a puncture. 10K miles covered, mostly in warm/mild weather and they still look brand new. As for wet performance, no complaints here either. There's been a few nasty storms during the past 16 months or whatever and the tyres have never felt anything other than totally safe. They're rated "B" according to the EU label

Good list. I switch to rubber floor mats and cold weather tyres, for sure. Usually around November/December. -20 strength screenwash And, my contribution; - If your car's mirrors auto-fold when you lock it...disable that feature when it's very cold. If they get frozen solid in the folded position, you're in for a long wait to have a drivable car. - Also, for a similar reason. Never try and open a window that's well frozen. I blew the fuse in my car trying to force one to open a few years ago Worse still, I once had a window stay frozen in the door frame, whilst the mechanism detached itself from the glass and went inside the door by itself. This wasn't in a Lexus, but could happen in any car I guess.

Not much other than they are moulded a certain way to accommodate the parking brake. Whereas, the front ones are probably a more basic flat shape. Still doesn't justify the exorbitant cost though. Even the amayama price seems ridiculous for a piece of pressed steel. If the rust issues are localised to where the locating pins are situated, an old trick is to "patch" the backing plate with a copper coin. Pre-drilled, of course and use it as a kind of washer.

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The pistons can be compressed. In theory you can change the discs and pads without the fluid being affected, outside of removing the reservoir cap to make squeezing the pistons easier. Hopefully someone with a hybrid can confirm.

So, I finally got around to getting this fixed. The leak was just infont of the centre silencer, where the reinforcement plate joins the pipe. The plate itself was also starting to come loose. Doesn't look the cleanest of repairs, but the person who did the welding was reluctant to split the system to get better access. The main thing is that the exhaust is nice and quiet again, and shouldn't be an issue at next month's MOT. 🙂

There's a new one in Dundee due to open in a a couple of months.