neuro

Guys thanks for the highlighting the possibilities. For now, i'll pull out the aftermarket induction kit that i bought. Check the battery and run a computer error check. I thinks there not enough power from the battery to run all the electrics. ;) (with my sound system and all) Furthermore the shuddering only appears when the radiator fan is running or the aircon compressor activates. btw, my car has 70K miles on the clock. There's a chance the injectors are dirty. Are there side effects of injector cleaners? What brands are recommended?

Thanks chip and Tyrrp. Worries me a lot this problem...i'm so used to smooth driving until recently... I'll have a look at the injectors too, but how do i actually clean my injectors? I've never tried injector cleaners before. Can it be DIYed or do i go the the dealers? Also i noticed that switching off my aircon 'cures' the problem. RPM shudders are less noticeable and my bonnet doesnt vibrate much. With the aircon on, the RPM drops to 0.1 to 0.2 and returns back to around 0.9 (below 1) 1 more thing i noticed on the way back from work today, i switch on my dimlights, wipers (it was raining) and activated my electric windows, the speedo console light dimmed! Is the battery the culprit now? It's driving me bonkers...

Hi netone. thanks for comment. Probably is. I have an air/fuel ratio meter on, but never saw any irregularities with mixture of fuel/air However I have an aftermarket induction kit that derives air from the brake breather and inputs into the intake. it claims to increase torque and saves fuel..not much difference, though i like the hissing sound it makes when the gear changes. i think its crap so i'll take 'em out soon. But it has never been a problem before, had the induction kit in for a year without the recent "rpm shudder" problem. Anyone knows the symptoms of a bad O2 sensor? I guess the sensors screwing up again... I'll have a computer check this weekend and see whether there's any errors..let u all know... Cheers.

Hi all, Maybe someone out there can help me out with my auto IS... During morning startups or after work startups, i noticed that my engine's rpm drops to a near 0 rpm when i'm braking at a stoplight, reversing or if i leave it idling at Drive. it worries me cos everything rattles badly even my bonnet! So what i did is just quickly shift it to Neutral if i'm down to a stop. But after 10mins of regular driving and pressing on the pedal, it resumes to normal, slightly below the 1 mark even during idle. Things that's running: my aircon, my stereo system. If i off my aircon though, it feels slightly better (less rattles) but when the radiator fan starts running rpm drops again. I got 3 suspects: 1. Battery. (about 3+ yrs since last replacement) 2. Aircon compressor. ---> can this be the culprit? 3. Cooling system. Things i've replaced recently: 1. replaced 1 of 2 faulty O2 sensors 2. Replaced radiator coolant with castrol protector series. Anyone has the same prob and solved it?? probably some sort of sensor came loose? Any suggestions are useful now. Cheers.

A fren of mine mistakenly bought an 6Cylinder AS Altezza (thinking that all altezzas are the same) and told me it wasnt up to his expectation in terms of power. As you browse thru this forum, you'll find out JDM RS Altezzas are a lot quicker in terms of Hp and torque responses. If you want a smooth ride, IS200 is your choice. If you want that extra kick then Altezzas for sure. :D Anyways, I know this is off topic, but what happened to the Forum member's Garage pics? I want to post up my new pics...

Thanks for info Ian. Anyone else have this problem? Where is the sensor related to this error located? Maybe I cant avoid it during a carwash.... I've checked my batt, it's charged perfectly...what now...

Hi bernard, the problem only started these few weeks. and no, its not flooded. It only happened after a car wash, maybe I sprayed the water hose where its not suppose to be. BUt its a strange symptom. where is the sensor that causes this? The compressor switch perhaps? Thru the front grill?? Anybody out there knows? Is yours imported altezza too? How do u know about these flooded cars? Cheers.

Hi all, Recently I've got an error display where the Outside temp display should be. It shows 'E' when it's suppose to show the Celsius value. Other symptoms: 1. A/C doesnt activate. 2. Engine idles too low but doesnt die off. 3. Door open warning doesnt go off or intermittent. 3. After 10 secs, an orange light appears where the fuel gauge 'E' is located. This has happened twice now, only after i've washed my car. Probably water seeped in a sensor or electronics of some sort. The error disappears the next day (after drying off) and probably the error codes are cleared from the ECU. Any ideas guys? I have a phobia with carwash and driving in the rain ever since...

Hi All, I've cancelled my order for the Tein S-tech springs, after much doubt over the 2" lowering distance. Instead I'm going for the H-tech springs, as I heard these are of stronger material quality without sacrificing comfort. And most importantly it lowers around 1.2". Any comments on the S-tech guys? Your opinions much appreciated as i've got a day to confirm the purchase. As for my other mod project, instead of fiddling around with my downpipes, I've done some mods on my center piping today with a straight thru pipe with a stainless 'bomb' center piece. Removed 2 middle stock resonators in the process. (i think that's what its called) Noticeable performance increase with a much louder sound coming from my blitz nur spec. Will post some pics and sound clips soon.

Hey guys, thanks for the advise. I have placed an order for the Tein S-tech springs (Medium tensile strength) and also the blue cusco sway stabiliser bars. S-tech springs makes a 35mm drop front and 28mm drop rear. Dunno whether this is going to affect my rims in the future though. I have one thing to bear in mind though, to drive slow on the slightest pothole or uneven roads. But this is just a starter for the suspension area. Overall, it cost about the same as a Tanabe sustec GF coilovers. However, as you guys recommended, sways bars are the main thing that makes a difference in cornering, handling, etc. So that's in the top priority. So I've got 2 mths wait now. B) Will make an update by then

Ok then, so it's down to springs and sway (anti roll) bars. So I'll just get Tein S-Tech springs..anyone tried these before? Any good recommendations for anti-rolls that works well with the Tein S-Tech springs? Cusco perhaps?

Thanks for the insight Mr Fargo, but would Tein springs coupled with sway bars make any difference? btw, arent sway bars also known at stabilisers. I'm not talking about 'cosmetic' top strut bars that goes over the shock mountings. Very contradicting indeed, as lots of people claim sway bars make a huge difference in cornering, handling, etc. Anyways, my first choice was to get the Tein Flex but then again the heavy price tag was a downer. (but its still in my wish list :winky: ) Tanabe's Sustec GF coilovers is my 2nd alternative, but are they really good? I'm more concern on ride quality, handling and most importantly to withstand potholes that would kill my future 18" rims. So the question now: Would Tein S-tech springs just simply do the job? As for the downpipes and headers I'm thinking to do a customised one, maintaining the exact diameter exits. Although I dont have supercharger but I would like to experiment with the downpipe first. I just want that extra exhaust sound and possibly some increase in torque..

Thinking about suspension mods before I go ahead with installing 18" G-games rims. I've got only 2 options: 1. Get Tein springs with Cusco sway bars. I heard Tein springs make a drop of 1.5" all round, but I doubt that my rims will be safe from potholes, esp with a combination of stock shocks. Cheaper method though. But are there any handling improvement at all? 2. Or get Tanabe Sustec GF coilovers. Bit pricey and less flare compared to Teins. But I heard they do a great job, street and race. Seems like I cant compromise with the Tanabes (budget-wise) and with the price of the coilovers I can get springs AND sway bars, but if anyone here can convince me otherwise... :winky: Now my other concern would be downpiping. Are there any complications in changing to an aftermarket one? (with all that "Check Engine" warning and all) I heard replacing the downpipe would involve removing the pre-cats, thus increasing torque and exhaust sound. I also have to consider replacing the manifolds to go along with the downpipe. This true?

Clunking noise would be caused by uneven pot distance in the calipers. There 2 pots in each stock caliper. Does your brake pads have uneven wear, if so, balance out the 2 pots and fit in new pads. Wheelshops have a special tool they use to balance these out. Also changed to mintex pads recently. Rotors seem ok, though it does a slight tap against the disc covers (behind the rotors) under hard braking. Either than that, the clunking around corners is gone. Hope this helps.

The gauge uses the stock sensors for O2 signals. So basically I just a have wires which needs to be connected to the O2 sensor. I dont have separate lambda sensors that needs to be welded in. ;) What do you suggest?

36inch from the downpipe? So basically just stripe the wire and jump the signal. Ok let me check it out. Thanks RR.

RS200 Altezza. Would it have the same air fuel sensor/signal location?

Need help guys. Just installed a customised greddy pods (a-pillar) to hold my air/fuel ratio gauge. Brought it to a local workshop and they were clueless on how to install it on an IS. They said there are 2 sensors, somewhere on the mid of the exhaust manifold and they were hesitant as it might blow up the sensor... Anyone done this before? Where exactly should the signal lead wires go?? If it's the ECU, which pin/plug?

Thanks for the insight mate. but then again, would this have any effect on the other electrical parts esp the denso blower? and what is the other secondary servo motor unit for? A/c control flap? Many thanks in advance!

Hi all, Been having weird mechanical 'crickety' motor noises from under the dash near the passenger side. It happens at random times when i start the engine which lasts for 10-30 mins..but then again on other days its quite discreet. It been bugging the heck out of me, until yesterday when i decided to inspect where it was coming from. I pulled apart the glove box, cleaned out the massive amounts of dirt and bugs from the aircon filter :yack: ... but the noise was still there and it's coming from this particular electrical thingie... Mystery item I traced the cables all the way down to a denso a/c blower control unit...as seen from the pic, there's 2 of these electrical bugs connected to the blower control, but only 1 is making the noise. I pulled out the power connector, the noise is gone for good..but i'm in doubt whether this has any affect to any other related components. A mechanic told me this is linked to the heater element (which I dont use at all) Can anyone enlighten me on this? :duh:

Thinking to the get the gunmetal-colored 77w Vaios to match my platinum ice. G-Games wheels They are +42 though..but learnt that the original offset for IS is +45. (18x8) Dont know if this has any effect on handling. What do you all think?

Sounds like a faulty or loose handbrake switch terminal/fuse... When u're idling, does it light up?

Hey guys, got it sorted out by a local ECU repair shop. They used some sort of a universal diagnostic computer the size of a telephone directory! Using a serial port stuck into the lower fuse bay of the driver side, a few key presses and ignition starts, the problem is gone! Not bad for a $11K piece of electronic... The techie (who told me to just drive without the SRS fuse ) beared the $20 charge. But that's a responsible thing to do. Now i dont have to worry of lights no more. :P

man...that's way too much work over a dash light. I'll try to figure it out then. By the way, what is a service wire? This is getting too risky, might fry up my ECU. Anyways, thanks a lot for procedures and feedback guys.

Yup IS200. (Altezza) Didnt put on the parking light function though. Still, i dont think that putting the function back in would fix this problem. Cos according to that tech, it's due to a electrical trip to the airbag fuse of some sort... I've tried resetting the ECU, (pulling out EFI and ECTS fuse) waiting for 5 mins which is probably the equivalent of pulling out the battery. Retried starting, it just wont go off. I could only get it off until the fuse is pulled out from the passenger side fuse box. But i rather not leave it out... Any ideas guys?