Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


rincewind

Members
  • Posts

    215
  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Profiles

Forums

Events

Store

Gallery

Tutorials

Lexus Owners Club

Gold Membership Discounts

Lexus Owners Club Video

News & Articles

Everything posted by rincewind

  1. Hi all, is this an integral part of the upper wishbone or can it be changed on its own. It’s this balljoint I’m referring to https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F392237822390
  2. Anyone know if the upper ball joint is an integral part of the wishbone I.e. it all needs changing, or can the balljoint be changed on its own? On mine it seems to be pressed in to the wishbone.
  3. I put new KYB shocks on mine, it made no difference at all, knock still there.
  4. Doog442 I’ve had my IS200 for nearly 13 years and never been able to get rid of the ‘knock’. Pretty much given up now, just ignore it.
  5. Yep, the fan assembly bolts to the rad via (I think) four bolts. Remove bolts and lift out. There are two electrical connections to the fans that need to be disconnected first. This is from memory when I did the job two years ago though so a bit hazy now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. You’ll need to remove the fans assembly to get access Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Nip on to YouTube and search for Project Altezza - Service 1G FE Engine - Belts Install Part 1 There’s also parts 2 - 5 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. If the water pump belt let’s go you’ll have no cooling either. It’s a bit awkward changing them but quite doable. I must admit I changed mine whilst I had the rad out to change that. I also put a new water pump in while I was there - at 140k it made sense, even though the original turned out to still be nice and tight. Tbh, these are the only parts I’ve ever needed to change under the bonnet outside of normal service items. These cars are so well made. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. And.... I’ve just looked in close up at that belt - it’s knackered mate, see the cracks in it. I would be changing all three belts if that were me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. The power steering runs off its own belt, the one your hand is on in the third pic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. You’re correct, it the unit at the bottom left of the picture, under and slightly to three left of the water pump. If memory serves, it’s one bolt that needs loosening off a bit - the one a little bit up from the bottom left of the pic. Once slightly loose, get a long lever in between the pump and the block (e.g. long screwdriver or breaker bar) and yank on that to the left to tighten the belt, then tighten the bolt. I do wonder about the condition of the belt though to get that loose, so make sure it’s ok. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I’ve got 142k on mine, I changed the rad at 135k as it had a slight weep on the top left. Whilst I was in there I also changed the water pump but on inspection the old one was fine - bearings were nice and smooth with no play. I also changed the ancillary belts at the same time. As said, these engines really are built to last. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I've just bought a set of Denso IK20TT. Do they come pre gapped to the correct setting? If not, IS200 on a 2004 plate - what should the gap be? EDIT: should have Googled first - found the answer. Cheers Paul
  14. It’s an IS200 on a 2004 plate by the way Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I know it’s probably been asked many times. I’m looking at the Denso Iridium IK 20 plugs, but there seems to be a few variations. Will the IK 20 TT fit? The IK20 seems to have a different tip design to the TT variant in the eBay pics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Bumping this to see if anyone's had any luck getting to the bottom the issue
  17. Thanks I’ll give the Bren I ones a try Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. All the time Steve. Changed the slide pins, shocks (on the third set), top mount, lower ball joint. All the rest seems tight, many people including WIM have looked at it and can't find it. Short of completely rebuilding the whole front suspension I'm at a loss. Paul
  19. It's a strange one this. My IS200 has now done 140k, and I've not had any judder problem apart from very briefly when I replaced the front discs (OEM Lexus supplied) at around 80k. Run out was excessive, so I really cleaned the disc to hub face and the problem went away, never to return. It's like the problem I have still got the the o/s/f 'knock'. I've never found the problem, some cars have it others never do.
  20. There are a few that may be the right ones, having looked again it may be these but I seem to remember they need holes for the slide pins to go in to. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Lexus-IS-Car-Replacement-Pad-Kit-axle-set-FRONT-0446553040-/251530912269 The description is just a series of disclaimers, and if I use the ‘does this fit my car’ link it only shows IS from 2005 onwards, which is the second generation, not mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. I’ve had a look at the on line shop and the descriptions are too vague - it doesn’t even specify what axle the pads are for, front or rear. They are £87 which also seems a bit steep. Anyone know the oem makers for these? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I found that he disc runout was way outside of the .035mm permitted runout, it turned out it was due to the disc/hub mating faces not being clean enough - Tiny hot spots of corrosion were enough to cause the issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. I need to change the front pads on my 2004 IS200. Rather than have to go to the dealer, I’d like to source them on line as I’m at work during the time the dealers are open. My driving style is relaxed, very little putting my foot down these days so I’m looking for pads that have similar properties to be standard Lexus oem. Suggestions please good people. Cheers Paul Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Nice one. Has the knock gone? Bear in mind that it may go for a day or so because that’s what seems to happen when the suspension has been relaxed, then it comes back.
  25. I’ve had my IS since a year old and 10k miles. It’s now done 140k and has proved unbelievably reliable. It’s had the front n/s suspension ‘knock’ since the day I bought it back in late 2005, Lexus tried to fix it but failed- they changed the shocks twice and had a good old session pulling it all about but it is still there to this day. I’ve since changed the shocks again, new lower ball joint, new top mount and three or four garages pulling it about but finding nothing amiss (including WIM). I live with the knock and don’t really notice it any more. Well, most of the time.
×
×
  • Create New...