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rincewind

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  1. Brilliant, great news. Often happens when one goes, so does another. After nearly 14 years with mine I’m finally moving on. I’ve ordered a Tesla Model 3 Performance. Totally different beast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I mate, just root around it - need all the air box removed to see it. Check the thin gauge rubber pipes underneath it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Have a good look for vacuum leaks. Especially around the throttle body. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Have you read the codes and if so what does it say? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Getting the rail off is only a few bolts, then it pulls off the injectors (carefully). The only awkward bit It is that you have to take the throttle body sensor off to get to one of the bolts. It’s two screws, one of which is a sod to get out. Also, mark the top of the sensor across to the alloy of the throttle body as then you won’t need to calibrate it(they have a small angle of adjustment to set the idle values). It took me about 30 minutes. Let’s hope it’s a coil pack or plug as they are very simple to swap out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Yep, found the problem(s). A small vacuum hose had come off the throttle body - it was that which was throwing the 'multiple cylinder' misfire code. Once that was re attached, I was left with a single cylinder misfire on number 3. Swapped the plug and the coil pack around with number 1 and the fault stayed on 3. Swapped the injectors round and the fault moved with it to number 1 cylinder, proving that the injector on number 3 cylinder was faulty - it was breaking down when it got hot. New OEM injector from EBay was £35, put it in and it's now running perfectly. All that said, multiple cylinder misfires can be caused by a whole basket of things. Cheers and good luck with finding the problem Paul
  7. Wow. They fitted two sets to mine but the problem was still there - is still there. I also fitted a pair to no avail - they were oem so probably had the issue still there in the design. I’ve given up now as after 13 years I’m moving on, getting a Tesla Model 3 Performance. I’m like a kid waiting for Christmas atm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Well, an update. I changed the O2 pre cat sensor, fault still there. However, a new error code has appeared - P0171 Fuel mixture too lean bank 1. So, possibly the MAF sensor but could also be other things, so I've boked it in to a local garage for a proper scan.
  9. Hi all, Firstly, it's worth saying that the car tracks perfectly straight, no wobbles or vibration. However, under anything more than light braking I can feel/hear a noise that sounds like the car is going over tram lines. It's not at all loud but certainly it's there, like a rather muted thump thump thump thump (frequency about 3 per second). I've not come across this before so I'm a little perplexed as to what it could be. Any ideas? Cheers Paul
  10. Thanks ROYT. I'm going to have a good look around the various hoses and other points to check for air leaks. I have msifires on 4 cylinders, so seriously doubt that 4 plugs or injectors would go faulty at the same time. I have found that the pre cat O2 sensor heater is stuffed. I checked it this morning with a test meter and the heater element is reading zero ohms (it should be mid teens). So, ordered a new Denso O2 sensor and fingers crossed. Cheers Paul
  11. I thought I'd re post my previous problem. IS200 on a 2004 plate, 148k miles I've now read the codes. P0300 Random/Multiple Cyliner misfire detected P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire detected P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire detected P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire detected As in the original post, starting from cold it runs fine right the up to running temperature, it only seems to be happening when I restart from when the engine is already pretty warm i.e. it's been run up to operating temperature, switched off and then restarted a few minutes later.  Any ideas people?
  12. UPDATE I've now read the codes. P0300 Random/Multiple Cyliner misfire detected P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire detected P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire detected P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire detected As in the original post, starting from cold it runs fine, it only seems to be happening when I restart from when the engine is already pretty warm i.e. it's been run up to operating temperature, switched off and then restarted a few minutes later. Any ideas people?
  13. Hi all, My IS200 (2004) is slightly misfiring and not pulling properly, with the engine management light flashing. This only happens when I restart the engine when it's already been run up to operating temperature i.e. if I've driven the car for a while, switched off the engine then restarted it a few minutes later. I'm suspecting a sensor, possibly the Lambda sensor. It's done 148k miles. I know I need to get the codes read but just wondered if anyone else has experienced this. Paul
  14. Should have said that the rad was over and above the standard plugs/oil/cam belt changes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I’ve had mine for 13 years. I usually get around 400 miles from a tankful, mixed driving and not spirited (much). In all the time I’ve had it the only thing that’s needed replacing under the bonnet is the radiator, which is an easy job and cost me about £150 and a pleasant morning a couple of years ago. I also changed the water pump and ancillary belts while I was in there, although the the pump I took out looked fine. 148,000 on the clock of which I’ve done 147 of those. It is by far the most reliable car I’ve ever owned. Oh, and the Mark Levinson sound system is lovely - I’ve added a Grom adapter for my iPhone for music and Bluetooth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Didn’t do it in the end- it was on the list of things to change to try to get rid of my front o/s ‘knock’ but others had changed it and the knock was still there on their cars so I left it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Yep 145. It’s running just as well as ever, smooth as when I bought it with only 10k on it. I was asking as I think as engines age the grade to use can change Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Hi people, I always use synthetic, but with 145,000 miles on the clock, what's the best grade to use?
  19. I’m not too far - just outside Epping in Essex. Let’s try to get to the bottom of this. I’ll probably be keeping the car for a while yet (had it 13 years so far), and it’s been rock solid so far. I’m probably going to change it for a Tesla Model 3. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Where are you mate? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Bushing looks ok though. The fact that the noose goes away briefly when it’s all been relaxed seems to point to shock or top mount, but both have been changed on mine. I’ve changed: Top mount Shocks (x3) Lower ball joint Drop links Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Thanks - I was looking at that as a possibility. Now excluded from the list. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Have you looked at the upper ball joint, the one on the end of the wishbone? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. I share your frustration. It’s the only thing that spoils the car. I’ve thought hard about what it could be and not yet got to the bottom of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Catnap, I’m really keen to hear the result of this. I’ve had 3 sets of shocks on mine all to no avail. As you said though, the noise deffo goes away for a short while when the suspension has been relaxed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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