ndrk

No, it´s an e-shift

drive it hard for ten minutes. Then stop the car and let engine running and vents blowing. If strong smell is coming after 10 or so seconds after stopping, its catalytic converters. They are about to go or already gone.

I happen to have 4.3 gears and MKIII Clutch-type LSD. It launches hard and gears are nicely short. If I keep the revs more than 4500 no hothach can beat me on rolling start. This torsen LSD which was standard on Sport models should work properly also.

you´ll need both engine and gearbox. Otherwise an easy(ish) swap.

8.2 seconds EU spec IS300 vs ~7 seconds US spec IS300 is only beacause final ratio. US spec auto - 3.91:1 EU spec auto - 3.38:1 Now if you ask me what happens when one throws in Supra MK III 4.3 gears with LSD unit (both are direct swap)? I can tell you that TypeR civics and MK V golf GTI will get used to see those round taillights of yours... MPG, of course, will suffer a bit on motorways beacause engine will rev higher but...

Procedure is the same as changing heater control bulbs. Easy job and bulb is only available from dealer. I posted some tutorial into one topic. Use search.

Easy job. bulb is only available from dealer and costs around 5 EUR Follow this until step 10 http://my.is/forums/...488-post18.html then remove heater control unit from frame. then open it up by undoing 4 screws Then yo´ll have access to all bulbs. replace the one is not working and install everything back

100% City driving I notice only 2 MPG difference when I´m driving like a grandmother or like I´ve stolen it with my IS300. So really no point to drive slow&smoth

I just did it. You can unscrew the filter from above but it will not come out. I droped the filter somewhere towards rear, then I got it from under the car. Installing new filter was reversed process. I put filter in from under the car and droped it onto steering shaft. Then I picked it up from above and screwed in. of course, I had car on the lift.

No I have low car and 235/40 R18 were scraping just a bit when I reversed with full lock. Wheel was 7.5 ET49 225 should clear nicely, specially when you are not lowered You can fit 8.5 ET 30-ish in the front when tire is right. 205 or 215

Torsen LSD will, as stated before, run rear wheels on opposite ways when car is lifted and wheels turned by hand. Torsen is good by being virtually bulletproof but on slippery conditions (snow, icetrack) it will not perform like a cluch-type LSD. Torsen needs some traction to "fight back" to be effective. Thats why I installed Supra MKIII LSD tunit into mine. It´s bolt-on swap (you can swap only LSD unit, not the whole pumpkin). Supra has cluch-type LSD and of course turning one wheel when car is lifted, the other turns the same way. Cluch type diff is better when you are practicing your high-speed drifts on snowy streets during the night. Car is easily controllable with your right foot. And for those who have open diff, go with MKIII´s. They are cheap as dirt and readily available. Oh, almost forgot - MKIII diffs go for IS300 diff housing only.

Now you can pin this post somewhere or leave it here but this is ALL you need to calculate lexus IS200/300 wheel fitment. These limits are the practical extremes with good alignments. You can buy more fender room with camber or rolling or pulling. In front, you can buy more room with shorter overall tire diameter (<25") The closer you get to these limits, the more likely you will need to stretch a tire to fit the fender side. Drop does not determine what size wheels fit. Put too aggressive a wheel, and one day, you WILL bend your fender when you take the wrong turn with a good bump if you exceed these limits. Measuring in mm from the face of the hub: Front fender limit: +65mm Comments: | +65 | Stretch tire and/or roll fender. Need fender liner mod. Do not exceed tire diameter of 25" | +55 | Fender liner mod if going for a wide or tall tire. Do no exceed tire diameter of 25.2" Front inner suspension upright limit: -155mm Comments: Need spacer if this number is exceeded. If close, do not use lip weights on wheels Rear fender limit: +68mm Rear fender limit w/ shaved lip: +75 Comments: Need to stretch tire to a certain degree if very close to these numbers Rear inner suspension coil lmit: -183mm Comments: Several factors matter as you approach this limit. You may need to limit the amount of suspension travel. You may need to stretch tire. And you cannot run as aggressive camber. I've been able to actually scrub tire well before this limit (@ -175mm) with track cornering loads on the spring and inner forward tub. Equations to figure out wheel lip placement relative to limits: Outer lip: (Wheel Width * 25.4) / 2 - Wheel Offset Inner lip: (Wheel Width * 25.4) / 2 + Wheel Offset Note: Inner lip is related to backspacing but backspacing takes into consideration the wheel lip thickness, which is usually another 1/2" or 12.7mm. Examples: Front wheel size: 8.5" +45 Fender: 8.5 * 25.4 / 2 - 45 = 62.95 (< 65 - OK) Suspension: 8.5 * 25.4 / 2 + 45 = 152.95 ( < 155 - OK) Rear wheel size: 9.5" +55 Fender: 9.5 * 25.4 / 2 - 55 = 65.175 (< 68 - OK) Suspension: 9.5 * 25.4 / 2 + 55 = 175.65 (< 190 - OK)

they come with instructions. You either solder or crimp few wires and you are good to go. Thing that is actually making the power is this chip that comes with intake. It´s a A/F mixture controller similar to Apexi SAFC. It just dont have any adjustment options, parameters are already set. That justifies the price also

With OEM amp -NO. OEM amp is filtering signals itself. Aftermarket 6x9 will need unfiltered signal. If you already have already aftermarket HU and rear speakers waitin for installation. Throw away the OEM amp and replace it with aftermarket 4-channel unit. Rewire the whole system.

OEM 17 inch wheels are 7 inch wide and with +50 offset. Tires are 215/45. TTE 18 inchers are 7,5 inch wide and +49 offset. I recommend 8-8.5 inch for fronts with 30-40 offset and 8,5 - 9,5 inch rears with around 35 offset. Use max 225/40 inch wide tires. They´ll strech a bit on rear wheels but they´ll clear the arch even if you are lowered. If you go with 9.5 inch in the rear and lets say +30 offset, you may have to adjust camber to -1-2 degrees.

that Lexus badge on rear speakers is a little nice touch but I´m not sure you should want them so bad. Specially in case your windows are tinted. 8 speaker system is good when it is OEM but PITA when you want to go aftermarket. There are 2 speaksers mounted on one 6x9 frame. tweeter is 4 ohm and woofer is 2 ohm. You have to ditch them if upgrading to aftermarket amp.

they look a bit cheesy, dont they....

if you do not want to buy OEM (~80 EUR at dealer) then only thing to go for is Scosche. Scosche has exatctly the same plastic color and texture as OEM. With OEM fascia you´ll lose seat heater buttons. Here is Scosche one in my car (it can be fastly converted to 2DIN) Here is OEM Here is some noname eBay facia (crap in so many ways)

I got 2001 Diamond Pearl White US import. This color was used ony in 2001

I also completed the job some weeks ago. My disc groove was really corroded so good clean with dremel did the trick. Be sure to wear some respirator because there will be huge cloud of rust dust when dremel is in action. I also cut down some micrometers from lower part of both backplates edge. Aso replaced brakepads as they had to be removed anyway...

I know that OEm system is not high end. I have Nakamichi headunit myself and I swear I hear difference between MP3 and some original CD

Never had problems in winter. I turn off TRC in city as it only pisses me off. I have spiked tires all around and boy is that fun... I also dont see need for putting sandbag into trunk. You just keep your tank full of fuel and you´ll have constantly extra 70 kg on rear wheels. ooh, I forgot...we have snow during 4-5 months...

So much better!

I´ve seen those in JDM Tezzas. I would prefer MD as MP3 has bad sound quality (if you have good stereo setup, you´ll understand). I didn´t understand. will it work with or without OEM amp?

2001