Div

Chris, I'l go for a pair in Platinum ICE (1CO) please. Let me know the money details. Div.

Have a look at; http://www.dave-good.com/files/Tyre_reviews_031203.xls if you're interested, it's various 17" tyres with thier scores from online tyre tests complied together. I haven't updated it for a while, but it's a good guide and comparison. May be of some use. Div.

From http://rockbox.haxx.se/lock.html;... 1. Grab atapwd (http://rockbox.haxx.se/atapwd.zip) 2. Create a bootable DOS floppy disk, and put atapwd.exe on it 3. [...] plug it into a laptop (or a standard PC, using a 3.5" => 2.5" IDE adapter) 4. Boot from the floppy and run atapwd.exe 5. Select the locked harddrive and press enter for the menu 6. [...] For Toshiba and Hitachi disks, if the above doesn't work: Choose "unlock with master password", then "disable with master password". The password is all spaces. Your disk is now unlocked. Shut down the computer and remove the disk. Also wade through http://www.experts-exchange.com/Storage/Q_...Q_20525321.html and see if you can gleen anything from there. Good Luck! Div.

Take a look at: www.dave-good.com/files/Tyre_reviews_031203.xls It's a sheet I try to keep updated - with tyre reviews and prices. You may find it useful. Let me know if you find any errors! HTH, Div.

Well I didn't need to do much convincing, a simple call to Lexus Reading to give them the low-down, and my car was in before I knew it having the water pump and ball joints done under warranty. Nice one Reading. Div.

It's a Lexus extended warranty (from when I bought the car from Lexus Guildford), from speaking to Oxford it looks as if extended warranty's are done through a broker; hence the decision whether something is wear-and-tear or not - is down to the broker. I've spoken to Reading again and they're on the case to get a final answer, if nexessary I'll have a little chat to Lexus GB too. I could do with finding my list of what's covered under the warranty and what isn't - can anyone help? Div.

Both the pump and the ball-joints seem to be a common problem from reading the posts. Still I'm glad the pump's under warranty, even if the ball-joints aren't... hopefully I'll make a few calls tomorrow and get them to confirm whether the waranty covers it or not. Thanks for your replies so far. Div.

Hmm... sounds like I should have a chat about getting these done under warranty. JMR> were yours done at Lexus Oxford? Does anyone have a list of what's is, or isn't covered under the extended warranty?

"Booyacasha"

My is200's just been in for a 70k service, along with a leaking water pump, and rear pads being worn, I've been told that there's not much life left in the ball joints. As I've got an an extended warranty the pump's covered; but the ball joints aren't; however I've done a couple of searches on here and seen that some people have had the ball-joints done under warranty - can anyone verify this, and do you think I've got enough to argue my case after 70k? I'm thinking that the wear-and-tear arguement is fairly strong. (BTW; the quote is about £360 for the ball-joints including labor). Thanks for your advice, Div.

On that TV program "right car, wrong car" The dealers nearly always went down to thr 5% mark, not sure Lexus would oblige, but always worth thinking about. Div.

I concurr with the other Geoffers and the other guys; it's almost certainly a power issue, which will only be resolved by getting a powered hub. HTH, Div.

btw, the ignition has to be on for it to eject. I thought mine was dead, until I realised this ;) HTH. Div.

What's not clear with those ratings is whether they take the cost into effect. I mean I've never really heard of anyone running Uniroyals, let alone raving about them - so I'm a bit dubious as to whether they're as good as they appear to be using their ratings - there are some serious tyre's out there that's they've wiped the floor with (if you combine all the categories). I'd be interested to know if anyone's got experience of them - I guess they're probably bigger elsewhere in Europe? Div.

I think Evo Magazine just rated the Goodyear Eagles as the best high performance tyre. I don't have a copy, not sure how they tested this, or how valid it is. Maybe someone could scan it? Also have a look at: 17" Tyre rating spreadsheet it's a sheet I did a while ago base on a set of tyre tests from some german site. Div.

There are quite a few tyre fitters who price-match, some may do this against an online site. Of course, they would probably then charge so much to fit them that it wasn't worth the while. Div.

Thanks for the answers, I'll give it a go waiting for the warning lights to go out first... kinda reminds me of my old Citroen diesel :)

I've recently had some problems with starting the ole' beast. Back in October - when it wasn't as cold I'd had a couple of times when it'd take 2 goes to start the car - one of the times the car had a warm engine from a long drive (The stop was whilst we cross the channel on the tunnel). Anyway I didn't think much of it until now - when the last couple of evenings - with a cold engine - it's taken until about the 3rd of 4th time to start it. As far as I can see the battery's fine. Should I take it to the dealers - it's under extended warentee, but it's not very repeatable so will they be able to find anything? Any ideas welcome! Thanks, Dave.

Anyone know if they can be changed at the dealer? I got the assumption that stuff like that they could play with. I want mine so hot I can toast my crumpets... :D yone> do you sit on your bollocks?

yone, I agree with you, but don't you think that in very icy conditions it's a case of 'if it helps then use it'? In these conditions even the best drivers will find it hard to get traction. Div. Should I duck now?

I've certainly thought about the racelogic - maybe next year though - I'll see how I survive this winter... I'll perhaps have a play in the car-park tonight (it's bound to be iced over), I'm always the last car in it! At least it sounds as if my TC's relaxed attitude isn't anything out of the ordinary :) Having said that it's quite nice to have it that relaxed when the roads are dry :D Div.

OK, in typical English style, this post is a bit, "one heavy frost and we're sent into dis-array"... I've noticed since having my is200 that the Traction control seems a bit, erm.. slow. Now that the roads are getting a bit slippy I've had chance to play a bit. It seems to only cut in about 1-2 seconds after the rear wheels have lost traction - i sat on a slippery hill and floored the throttle, and it was a good second or two before the TC cut in and killed the revs. Is this normal? IMO too much can happen in this time to make it useful. ... which leads me to the second point - the Snow button. I'm guessing this perhaps doesn't do a great deal, but under what conditions should you turn it on - if there's snow on the road? ice? black ice? Ta. Dave.

Thanks for your advice - I gave it a little nudge, but the things so solidly built.. Iv'e had cars previously which would fall apart with this sort of nudge!. I took it in to the dealers (my first trip since buying!), who were as curteous and efficient as I'd hope for. They ordered a new replacement radio (and clutch pedal - it clicked) before I could say anything - nice one Lexus Reading. So the car will be going in shortly once they have time and a courtesy car available. I'll be posting a dealer review once it's all fixed. Div.

With all this rain and fog around I'm practically always going to a wet car. The problem I have is that the windows are - of course - covered in rain-drops. Usually I'd drop the windows to let the rubber strip take the drops away, but this doesn't work on my IS - the window goes up in the same state it went down - the windows only clear when I apply outward force (with my elbow) to the window. As all 4 windows do this I guessed it may be a 'feature' but does anyone elses behave differently? Div.

OK, I know there have been a couple of posts already about this , so I'll try to keep it short... on my '99 IS sport when I press the eject button for the CD it flicks over to the tuner, when I press CD again I get the dreaded ERR3 error. I'm sure it used to stay on the tuner whilst ejecting (?) I've got this a couple of times in the past but managed to get around it, but it's not working this time - anyone know of a fix? I think someone mentioned removing a fuse - does this work - is it a permanant fix, or should I get it down to the dealers and get it fixed (replacement?) under (extended) warentee? Cheers, Div.