Cabcurtains

Agreed, but why have rump if you can afford to have fillet?

I see your logic, but my fuel is reclaimed at the relevant AFR rate, so it’s 14 pence max for diesel. RX 450h as a 2ltr + petrol allows 22p. Also unless it’s 2016 or newer the car would be Euro 5 which means paying for the London ULEZ and any other cities that follow their lead i.e Birmingham, Leeds, Nottingham, Derby and Southampton. Petrols only need to be Euro 4 to be exempt.

Welcome to my world, two meetings and some driving in the middle. My Diesel X5 is no better than the RX on fuel, plus petrol is cheaper. Servicing every 4-5 weeks, are you sure?I’m thinking it’s more like 11-13 myself 😉 Out if curiosity why would you choose diesel?

10k she’s yours 😁 I suspect it would be going on a one way trip to Africa in a shipping container. Thanks for the warranty info 👍🏼

The original reason for the question was to see if 3yr extended warranties are available on approved cars, this is to decide if it’s worth the dealer premium on the purchase cost and the subsequent service costs vs buying private or non franchised. That would save a fortune on servicing and a few thousand initially, but it wouldn’t come with any backup if a major component fails. I think the savings out weigh the risk. I’ve already been through the various cars that are alternates and I don’t want anything other than a Lexus when it’s my money.

Best we agree to disagree, I work for a leasing company with 150,000+ vehicles and it’s fair to say diesels after a certain mileage will cause issues on all of the parts I mentioned. I get to see which cars have money left in their maintenance budgets and which don’t. One thing that doesn’t seem to have ever happened though is a blocked EGR on a petrol engine 😜

Diesel, no chance 😫 🙂 EGR, DPF, Turbo, Injectors etc wont last the course. RX450h or a Merc ML, BMW X5 or Audi Q7, there’s really no contest when it comes to long term reliability and running costs IMO. I have an X5 now and it does 33MPG in my hands, mostly motorway usage.

I would agree, our old ones were faultless. But...this one will be doing 40-50k per year for the next 3yrs. I’m coming out the company car scheme and taking the cash. I was wondering if anyone had been able to secure a longer warranty than the 2yrs. In 2yrs time I may have passed 140k (depends on the starting mileage) so renewing might not be an option. I may take it on risk and save money by not using the dealer network, the money could go in a rainy day fund. I do have faith that 200k can be achieved without major mechanical failure, unless you’re really unlucky or you don’t service the car. Decisions decisions.

I’ve seen the 2yrs for the price of one, but can you buy a 3 year warranty? Or do they expect you to buy another year every year, unless it’s 2 for 1, then it’s every 2 years 🤔

Hi All, I’m going to be returning to Lexus life in the next few weeks, my intention is to buy an approved used car. Does anyone know the maximum length of warranty that can be added by the dealer? The car will be a 2013-15. i know I could phone and ask but I’d like to hear about other people’s experiences. CC

Shameless bump...car is available immediately as our new one has arrived.

Hi All, If anyone is lurking and is looking for a solid car, mine is for sale here - My RX300 Advert Without doubt the best built car i have ever owned!

If the speed and load rating wasn't sufficient for the car, they would try and avoid paying out in the event of a claim. The same is possible with the size not being the official size but i think that's a bit more subjective provided its a sensible change like 195 instead of a 205. With the winter tyres some insurance co's still like to be informed, the majority don't. You can download a full list from the ABI website, our current insurer used to wan to know, they don't anymore. This is what my BMW has (the Lexus isn't with me at the mo), this has been marked on tyres for a few years now, i don't know if its all brands though;

Probably best to call an Auto Locksmith locally and ask, they seem to offer a service (or the ones around here do) on the basis all keys are lost to get the car back on the road and you don't have that issue. This is when the car is immobilised.

Can you see the week and year on the tyre? That will give you the age. This is usually found near the tyre size on the sidewall. I have our RX on Nokian WRSUV3 Nokian WR SUV 3 - 235/55 R18 104H XL all year round, as she isn't a sports car i prefer winters on it. The insurance company doesn't mind.

I've just done this via the Ebay and Timpsons (£15 per blade...) my local cobbler shops wouldn't do it, as mentioned in the thread the metal was/is believed to be to hard. All 3 of our keys were dead as the plastic had shattered, all done for £47 inc new batteries for each fob and i have the keys in the picture. They have all been tested and work fine, a little stiff to remove the first time from the ignition barrel but fine after that. I'm quite pleased with the result.

2 months in and I haven't had any issues with mine.

It appears to be all sorted, having had the car up to a reasonable speed there isn't any wobble I think i'm going to get rid of these, the tread is ok but they are a bit tired.

These are ones i bought http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/501-W5W-led-extreme-power-1.5w-360-degree-white-blue-red-amber.html?bulb_search=car from this seller, you can get cheaper ones on Amazon etc but i wouldn't buy them. Make sure to order 2 as they are singles and go for white :D :winky:

I am of course a little bias/hopeful.....but the brakes are all new, and the MOT is fresh, so i'm hoping for tyres B) I don't drive this car very often (its the wife's, i use my Mini), but when i do i love it, so comfy and relaxed, just not when the wheel wobbles.

Hi All, The old girl has a wheel wobble at about 70, which is annoying, now the question is will it be fixed by a new set of (winter) tyres (on Friday) or is it a wheel bearing? The tyres are stepped and are out of shape and all are so old they don't show a Week/Year marking, the tracking was off the scale when it was corrected. The wheels were not balanced at the time as the tyres are shot. The tread is ok, but they are cracked and more square then round. So it has a hum from the tyres and a bit of a wobble. Which will it be, bearing or rubber, or could it be something else, please be the rubber! Are wheel bearing failures common on this car? Ours is a 54' and has done 77k.

I have a K & N Panel Filter fitted, combined with V-Power fuel economy has improved from 19 to 22 MPG. The part i fitted is a 33-2260 which was listed as being for a 3.0 Camry, its exactly the same size as one it replaced. From personal experience (touch wood now) i had a full cone on Corolla T-Sport for 40k and a Panel in a 2.2d Verso for 50k+, the MAF was never an issue. I just took them out and tapped out the rubbish, grit, flies etc I never re-oiled them or cleaned them with any type of chemical. Over oiling would easily affect the MAF. On the subject of MAF's i have deliberated over cleaning it, but as its not broken i don't want to mess with it spraying some type of contact cleaner, unless it get a fault code and that would be my first fix. The filter was part of a shopping spree inc front under run trim, mud flaps, rear bumper protector (Ebay bargains), all forward lighting. Not much left to do now, bar regular servicing.

How easy ARE the Sides to change? Easy or very easy? :) Very very easy, the worst bit is putting the LED bulb in the wrong way and thinking it's broken!

I have just changed all the bulbs on my RX, the sides were old and yellow, they are now LED bright white and look great, 1 minute each side. The mains again all really yellow so i changed to some slightly naughty upgrade bulbs, hardly an issue on main beam. Again quick and easy to do. The headlights took me about 15 mins each side, again changed due to being yellow, bare in mind my Mini has full LED, so i am a little bias and need clear light... Its a simple case of removing the white connector, uncrewing the caps, disconnect high voltage cable, push in springs and remove bulb. Fitting new bulbs is a reversal of the process. The difference is vast, even the Mrs noticed and thats saying something. Ref safety, no need to wait for dissipation, just set the lights to off and lock the car. Its fiddly at the time but once done its easy. Drivers side has less access due to the ABS pump. I think the bulbs last for ever, but they do age and loose there colour. There is a really useful youtube video on replacing RX330 HID Bulb. I bought Osram Cool Blue from Ace Parts, they were £33 each, but are now £26. The price on these varies wildly.