ROYT

I'll second that......Guy Martin

A few years ago I bought a write off SLK [panel and bonnet damage] also with the same problem and the Laser ones did the job although I had to turn one down in a lathe as it was a few thou too big on the outside. Looks like the later ones are already done. They worked because there was a decent amount of the lugbolt protruding to wind on for a tight fit. From your picture there doesn't seem to be enough of the nut protruding to get a good grip with this type of tool. If this is the case I would chisel off the wavy bits left and weld a nut on. Any competent welder can do this, the only risk, if carelessly done, is welding the nut to the wheel stud.

No, you weld a nut to the exposed damaged lockbolt,[if it's locknut and not a lockbolt is done just the same] then using a socket and long bar undo it normally. There should be no damage to the alloy wheel.

Find an independant mechanic who can weld. MIG is popular and will do this job, anyone who can MIG weld can do this. Welding will melt the two parts together if done right and then a long bar and socket will undo it.

There doesn't look enough depth to it to get a decent grip of it. I would get it as flat as poss. and weld from the centre the biggest nut I could get in, making sure there was enough room to get the socket on. A 3ft breaker bar would get it off then.

As above..

How about Rachel Riley ! ?

Check out KYB, I used on my LS no problems, they have a massive range....

I'd like to think that would happen with Lexus when they reach 50 but I doubt it. I won't be around then anyway! I had a similar experience a long time ago when I wanted brake parts for a Dodge.[i've had 3 yanks,wish I'd kept the Camaro!] Shipped from the states in 4 days and cheap, with all the fixings included.

Lexus claim luxury models with luxury part prices to go with them, so they should keep supplying parts. I think the Japanese set a cut off point for parts sooner because they are forever completely redesigning models from scratch I don't think we will be lucky enough to get aftermarket electronic stuff being made to keep us on the road as 'classics' Also later Lexus models don't seem as well made as LS's ,I'm not confident to change to a later newer model. All the gadgetry and ECU's have put a finite life on everything. I really don't want to go back to a simple Morris minor either! Dilemma.....

Steve ,when I did the cambelt I changed the serp. and kept it as a spare, it measures 2250. early 1994 model year The belt is marked micro-v xf 6pk2253, the 2253 I thought was the length but I'm guessing.{ presumably this was a replacement it's not marked Toyota] If it is the you still only gain 3mm. Hope this is some help

As Steve 2006 says the worst part of this job is getting to it. When I did the usual starter contact replacement job [starter off] it was a bit easier to get to, but be sure you have a good assortment of tools Longer than normal spanners were a help. Lucky for me [touch wood] mine was OK.

Engine is different has more power, gear lever layout is different, don't know if the gearbox itself is different. Series one engine is not damaged if the timing belt breaks, series 2 is damaged.......

Rip off prices, for that sort of cost they should never have failed in the first place!

!989 is series 1 UCF10 1995 is series 2 UCF20 A lot of parts are different

12-1989 TO 10-1994 = SERIES 1 LS 400 ..........[next is series 2 many parts different [brakes etc] What are you looking for?

How about that rolling speedo!

Try Amayama in Japan [Google it

Love it, I had 3 CX's, [not all at once!]........wish I had kept one to restore now. So futuristic at the time.....

Steve, you forgot to add VAT!!

I used KYB's on mine and no problems, you can DIY if handy with the spanners. Not a nice job to do outside in the winter , or am I just a wimp?

According to the info I have, the part number for the seal is 90311-43004, The O ring number is 96721-24025, if thats any help.

I used Blueprint discs and OEM pads, never had any problem. I think a lot of the wobble and similar problems is more likely calipers that need a good clean and checking for partial seizure. Also when fitting discs the hub must be perfectly clean to ensure the disc runs true.

Best wishes to all, and happy new year!

When you tested the alternator, did you test it under load? Needs heated rear screen or headlights etc., on to confirm alternator still puts out more than 12 volts. You may have to raise the revs a little on this test