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Dean1309

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Everything posted by Dean1309

  1. Hiya, As far as I know the exhaust mountings are the same for the S, SE and Sport. I have had a SE and now a Sport and have had sports exhausts on both models. I fitted the exhaust to my SE which was the HKS Silent Hi-Power, a subtle exhaust that's not too loud. My Sport came with a sports exhaust already on it but when i had to remove the back box to reseal the joint the mountings looked exactly like my old SE IS200.
  2. That job should have cost you no more than £60 for a OEM Denso sensor and 20 minutes of your time, I feel for you. I always check this site before committing to take my car to a garage. One classic reason i do not take my car to a garage. I fitted new drilled and grooved brake discs to my old car, I also replaced the caliper as it had a sticky piston at the same time. I done all the hard work, and replaced the lot BUT ran out of time that day. I still had to bleed the brakes as i replaced the caliper, I didn't have the time and took it to my local garage and was charged £90 to pump the brake pedal till it goes hard and release the bleed screw to let any air out. That is just me though, i refuse to pay it when diy is so easy, costs much less and gets it done quicker than waiting for a garage.
  3. Oh my god, that is extortionate, I have always been a firm believer in not handing my hard earned money over to garages if i don't have to. I'm truly shocked by that for a lambda sensor. I'm not quite sure what you mean by 'The boss disintegrated. I think you was fed a line with that one. there isn't anything to brake. The lambda sensors screw in, if they are stubborn you may need to heat the metal to get it to expand but then it will release. I replaced mine on my old IS200 couple years back, it took me no longer than 20 minutes. The engine light was showing, i code read it using a £15 ebay code reader and gave code P0420, bank 1 sensor 1. I had a friend of mine cross reference the denso part number and came back with DOX-0205. I didn't have a socket or anything to hand, so used a pair of mole grips on the sensor and it unscrewed, i unplugged it and screwed the new one in and replaced the connector, have to unbolt the heat shield on the exhaust manifold before unscrewing the sensor.
  4. Hi, Do not pay silly garage prices, this is a easy diy job and costs about £60, unscrew from manifold and unplug, screw in and plug back in. disconnect battery for 30 mins and this should reset the engine management light or plug in a code reader if you have one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DENSO-Lambda-Oxygen-Sensor-DOX-0205-/361351354404?hash=item5422381824:g:ldkAAOSwd0BVt38v
  5. To remove the under tray there are several 10mm bolts that hold the under tray to the bumper and there are a few that are held on at the back of the tray, remove these bolts and the tray should come off, you can then remove the bottom rad hose and drain the coolant.
  6. Hi mate, As you haven't much experience with cars I would suggest that you get a mechanic to fit the parts for you. I havent done this on my Lexus but I do know that the timing belt has to come off to replace the water pump, which is why with these cars people always say if you are ever having the timing belt changed then certainly get the water pump changed at the same time. The thermostat is located at the bottom rad hose, pop the rad hose off and drain the coolant, undo the two bolts and the thermostat housing comes away from the engine.
  7. Hi hypoman, This is down to personal preference, I opted to split the original headlights that came with my car. I painted the chrome inserts black and then added the angel eyes, I used araldite epoxy glue on the back of the rings to glue them in place onto the painted surround rather than use the 3M sticky pads that are supplied with the angel eyes. I've done 3 sets of angel eye headlights now, pre-heat the oven to 110 degrees C for 10 minutes, place headlight in the middle of the oven making sure that the headlight does not catch the sides. Leave in the oven for 15 minutes and remove, pry up the tabs on top and bottom of the headlight just enough that they do not catch when removing the lense. Starting at the pointed corner (main beam) and gently pry the lense away from the main body of the headlight, this should easily come apart when left in oven for 15 minutes. Be careful towards the indicator, this can be fidly but go gently and it will come apart. IF you feel the headlight cooling down quickly and becoming tough to pry apart then stop and place back in oven for 5 minutes and try again. Once apart, key the chrome surround with sand paper or scotch pad and prime/paint. When fitting angel eyes dont bother to use the 3M pads, they go soft under heat from the bulbs and fall off, use araldite epoxy glue to secure the rings in place and leave to dry. When ready to put back together, place everything back how you removed it, you can choose to keep or remove the orange indicator lense, if you remove the lense you will need to add an amber bulb or silvatec chrome bulbs. I found it useful to place some silicone gel packs on the inside base of the headlight under the bottom of the surround to soak up moisture if you happen to get condensation inside the lense when raining/washing the car. Here are the angel eyes I used: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-IS200-IS300-CCFL-ANGEL-EYES-8000K-BEST-IN-WORLD-/161205713455?hash=item25889bfa2f The other option you have is to buy the lights in your post, I cannot comment on these headlights as I haven't had experience with them. However I have heard that these do not fit properly due to the headlights being different on the IS200 than the IS300, i think some of the metal work has to be cut out to fit IS300 headlights in. I'm sure others would be able to give you more info on this.
  8. Hi the correct Denso plugs are SK20R11. I just changed the plugs on my second IS200 for the SK20R11, I very luckily managed to grab some for £41 on bid. Someone had bought them for their RX300 but sold the car before they got to fit them. Keep an eye out on ebay.
  9. This is the answer to your washer jet trouble, I bought these on my previous blue lexus that was written off, but grabbed them off the car when i could
  10. Hiya mate, I can see what you are trying to do, remove the number plate surround to get to the number plate lights. Once you removed the liner on the inside of the boot undo the 4 8mm bolts, two to the far left and right on the number plate surround, then you have to remove the two 8mm bolts for the locking mechanism on the boot itself. Once you have undone all 4 8mm bolts, the plastic trim surround is on pop clips, GENTLY lift the surround moving towards the boot lock, the plastic trim will come off to reveal the number plate lights. To change these you will need to get a screw driver on the two plastic clips either side of the of the number plate light (from the inside of the boot) a torch might be helpful if you cant see them. Push the clips back and pull the number plate light out. Hope this gets you out of trouble. Dean
  11. Hi Jomo, Thank you for your reply, damn I've really been after these, been scouting ebay like any thing for these. Someone got a lucky deal, a set sold for £25 couple weeks ago and missed my chance then. Can these light panels be changed for a SMD strip light, or something similar to make them worth their while.
  12. Hi Chris, I have installed headrest monitors in my car, I went for whole new complete headrests with Screen/DVD player built into them. I bought mine from ebay, Pyle 7" beige ones in the link below http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pyle-2x-7-Car-Dual-Headrest-TFT-Monitor-Built-In-DVD-Player-Twin-Screen-Games-/350992193776?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item51b8c3d8f0 I was going to go for the more high tech 9" touch screen ones but when I looked into it, these were £250 and most of them were cheap chinese units, which when you read reviews on them, the touch panel stops working and the poles are plastic that go into the seat rather than metal, and can be very flimsy. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XTRONS-2-X-9-Car-Dual-Headrest-DVD-CD-SD-Player-Digital-Touch-Screen-Game-Black-/121093885097?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item1c31c20ca9 Which is why I stayed with a brand I trusted. Hope you find the headrests you are looking for. Dean
  13. Still no luck with these. Been trying to get companies to produce them
  14. have a look at this thread: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/83289-is300-p1300-code/ Try taking engine plastics off and removing the coilpacks, unbolt them lift them out a little just so they resting on top of the spark plugs, run the car and one by one lift the coilpacks out seeing if you can hear them sparking / clicking from the ignitor in the coilpack to the spark plug. At least one of them should not spark, there's your problem. Might be one or two of them not sparking. Give that a try and see how you get on.
  15. Hi mate im not sure of the cause of the stalling. But a good start would be to get yourself a code reader for about £10 from ebay. They can tell you what the fault code is and from there you can look into what the problem could be. I see your from Kent, where abouts im from Chatham.
  16. Ive got a maxiscan ms309. About £10 on ebay and works a treat on my 2002 IS200. Works on other cars too. Have you got the rectangle obd2 port under the steering wheel. If yes then it will work
  17. No worries thats ok. I was the same when i first got my lex. Thank you i hope i can find a set of these door sills
  18. Thank you for your reply. However that post i think was referring to the newer model, second gen IS. I have the older first gen model. Struggling to find the door sills anywhere for the older first gen IS
  19. Hi all, Seen a few cars with the led door sills where the lexus writing lights up. I know these were an optional extra from tte. I also know that there is a thread on here where someone was producing their own ones. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/69691-led-scuff-plates-group-buy/ Are these still available? Would be great if they still were but i know it was an old thread from 2010. Would love to buy a set if these are still available. Hope to hear from you all soon. Dean
  20. Thats a long way from me. im from kent. Have to pass on them. Im sure someone will have them though
  21. Hiya, Glad you got it all working. I ended up running complete new cable through the car as I wanted an amplifier to power all speakers that I have replaced. Hope you enjoy your new speakers. Dean
  22. Hi, Not too sure if I am replying too late now as to whether you may have sorted the question you have. But never the less. If you have looked behind the glove box and you do not have the amplifier then your life will be so much easier. I had an amplified system that I had to bypass with the bypass lead. I am assuming that the stereo wiring on a non-amplified system will just need the ISO lead to convert the Lexus wiring to a ISO connector. The factory rear speakers IF you have an amplified stereo will have 4 wires as the rear speakers have a mid range and subwoofer built into them. As yours is not a amplified system and only has two wires, then im assuming you only have the mid range rather than both. You should be ok not to replace the rear speakers. Unless you wish to replace your rear speakers with another set of 6x9's. If you do plan to replace your speakers, front or rear speakers, then you will need to make MDF baffles to mount your new rear speakers onto. Basically use the standard speaker as a template and cut to fit your new speakers and bolt in place. For the front speakers they are riveted onto the door, so you will have to drill out the rivets. I used 15mm MDF for the rear speakers and 3/4" MDF for the front speakers with sound deadening to bring the speakers out a little more as they were catching on the door glass. Hope this gives you the information you was looking for. Dean
  23. These are the type bulbs you want. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=351204797210&alt=web Before you order. Remove your existing bulb and measure the bulb length and diameter to ensure you order the correct bulbs.
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