sjrainsford

Nope, it shouldn't be an earth cable going under the car. Earths are never very long on a car as the body is earth. You need to be checking key electric points such as inside the car, in case you've had water ingress. Especially if you've driven through water!

You could try disconnecting the EFI fuse for a few minutes to clear the fault to start with. If it returns you''ll need to get the code read to find out what the problem is.

Yes, running too high pressure alters the tyre contact patch on the road. The car will be more likely to slide with higher pressures. But if you hit ice, sometimes there's just no way out!

@Noby76 Flippin eck, I didn't realise the IS300 was that good on fuel!

I love my IS and will be sorry to see it go when I collect my company car in January. Have got to be honest I can't fault it. The 4 speed auto is lovely. Personally speaking it could really have done with an extra gear ratio, but not high up like most would expect. 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears are all great. Floor it and it hangs on to 3rd gear until about 100mph. 1st is the only real problem. Or rather the difference between 1st and 2nd. The revs drop too much during hard acceleration off the line. But if you're not chasing 0-60 times then don't worry. It'l still beat most cars off the lights and when at cruising speeds all you need do is push the pedal to the floor and the car takes off. I run in ECT-PWR mode rather than normal mode as the gearbox just behaves nicer and is more willing to change. It feels laggy otherwise. I've not noticed any increase in fuel consumption doing this either. It's been in that mode for about 6 months now. Plus ours tows our caravan great too. My average over the last 12 months is 28mpg. (every fill up recorded in software, including when having towed). And, as is the case with most IS's I presume, it's just so easy to own and live with. The only problem I've had is needing a new radiator (£55) and lambda sensor. Fuel and insurance aside, it's genuinely cheap to run. If I wasn't getting a company car, i'd run mine until it died. It's done 145k miles now and showing no signs of being anywhere near death yet. Reckon it's got as much power as when it had 50k on the clock.

Remove the wheels and give your hubs a clean with a wire brush. Then clean the seating faces of the wheels too. If the wheel(s) haven't seated correctly after they did your tyres or whatever then this can cause your vibration.

It shouldn't be the car. As in, mine is fine and I've checked the supply etc. It's worth checking there isn't anything wrong with the supply in your car in case something else is slightly iffy. To be honest though, I'd doubt it. I notice you're in Staffordshire somewhere, I'm near Lichfield and an electrical engineer. You'd be more than welcome to pop over if you wanted a second opinion and for me to drop my meter on to check everything is ok. As said before, there's no problem with the wiring on the IS200. The only issue is with the automatic headlight system, which can be damaged with HID lighting. This causes the healights to stick on normally though.

If they don't calm down after being on for a while then not normally. Also, don't leave your lights in Auto mode if using HIDs as they fry the ecu relay contacts.

I'd say it's more likely that if you don't see the fault coming up any more, then it was the fact that the car was stood for 4 months.

it will be the ballasts. Normally they may flicker a little just after ignition, but should be stable after a couple of minutes. if not, send them back.

I'd probably have a quick nose at the wiring to the sensor, as that one is quite exposed underneath the car. It's nothing to worry about day to day though, as they are only used for checking that the cat is working correctly, so don't directly effect fueling normally.

You need to remove the surround that goes all round the gear stick if I remember right, then you can get to the gear selector assembly. The electric mirror switch doesn't light up, neither do the window switches other than the Auto bit you mentioned.

In the sides like where the jack sits you will find a rubber bung in each. Remove them as the very first thing you do. Then it's more often than not the vents that exit out of those sides at about boot floor level. You just need to bung a load of silicone sealant round them. You can do it in situ, or it's easier if you can remove the bumper as you can pop them out and re-seal them properly then. If not the boot lid seal is another common one.

Hiya. As far as I'm aware, there isn't one on the IS200. The auto gearbox is controlled by the engine ecu, therefore the throttle position sensor can be used to tell where the pedal is. So in theory, a kick down switch isn't needed. Modern autos don't really need them. If I put pedal to the metal so to speak, I don't feel any change in the pedal but the car still drops to the lowest possible gear. If it's a cable operated accelerator on yours like on the IS200, then perhaps check it is all adjusted correctly.