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About james250

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  1. Has anyone used those coolant pressure testing kits that have a hand pump? Any tips? What pressure should I pressurize to? I have a leak somewhere I see some coolant stain at the bottom of the engine plastic tray but cant see where from. So thinking to pressurize it when it's cold and have a look. Any tips on how to look and spot the leak in the busy engine bay? It's quite hard to see anything. Has anyone used vacuum refilling procedure to refill coolant? Seems to be a common method for European cars where you drain the coolant and create a vacuum in the system which basically sucks all the air out shrinking the hoses and then you let coolant get siphoned back in. Looks like a interesting method to avoid air locks. Question is how safe is it to allow those hoses that are really really old to suck and contract like that? My pressure testing kit has the hand pump and all the radiator caps and a thermometer but isn't designed to be a vacuum filling system as I don't have the extra bits to create a vacuum. Rather than ordering a completely new kit for vacuum, is therea way I can use my pressure tester to vacuum fill?
  2. @steve2006 I think that diagram is of the back caliper. Below is a diagram of the front caliper and item number 47731A I believe is the metal ring I am referring to. Based on the diagram I believe the order things go in is the inner seal then the piston then the dust cover then the metal ring if I'm not mistaken? So I assume there is a metal ring somehow holding the dust cover compressed in?
  3. Ok thank you. What about that metal ring that comes with the caliper repair kit? I've got two new slider pin boots, the outer piston dust cover, the inner piston seal and also a metal ring. Do I need the metal ring or is that for changing the piston itself?
  4. How thick of a spacer shall I use? Normally on the car the thickness is of two pads plus the thickness of the brake disc. So should I use two brake pads stacked together or will one brake pad be enough? Also, to press the brake for the piston to come out, do I need to put car on ignition? Because with car off the brakes start to go hard
  5. Thank you, so the boot is seated in two grooves which are only accessible by making the piston come further out by pressing the brakes right? And then once installed then just push piston back like installing a new brake pad? Does the boot just sit in the groove? What is the metal ring? The is the inner seal that seals the fluid then the rubber boot and then there seems to be a metal ring. What is the metal ring for? Oh and how do you avoid pushing piston out too much so that it doesn't come out of the inner seal?
  6. Thanks, based on the pic I can see which goes where. Are the shims just floating with grease between them or do they need to be stuck on with something?
  7. I'm missing anti-squeel shims on my pads. I've got some new ones. From what I understand it's two per pad right? there is a black surface and a stainless steel surface combination on the shims. how do they go on which sides the the black surface go on and do the shims just float on? they aren't stuck on with anything? I just put brake grease between each layer?
  8. So just to be clear, i push the piston in all the way back just like you do when installing new pads? I dont push it out by pressing the brakes? because videos i've seen that involve caliper re-build and changing of pistons show pushing the piston out until it comes out but then this makes fluid leak out. I'm assuming the seal inside seals the fluid from coming out right? so removing the boot wont cause fluid to come out?
  9. I noticed when AC is on the fan kicks in a lot more and even way before the engine temperature is even up to the normal temperature. If I turn AC off, the fan doesn't kick in as frequently and when it does it doesn't stay on as long. With the AC on the fan runs for longer periods too. Can't remember if it's always been like this
  10. Did you get the 40-60mm option? They seem to also do 50-70mm. Will 50-70mm be excessively big?
  11. There are some exhaust shields that wrap around the pipe just after the O2 sensors under the car and these shields have two clamps on them on each pipe. My clamps are rusted and broken so not really doing a great job holding the shields clamped together. Does anyone know what size clips/clamps I need and where I can get this from? Can I use regular jubilee clips from the hardware store?
  12. I came across some really old threads that discuss the possibility of LPG conversion on the IS250 and everyone was saying it's not possible because of the direct injection. Has the options changed now since then? reason I ask is i've seen on fleabay some examples of IS250's with LPG conversions which seems odd considering i've read it's not possible.
  13. @jackcramerr so you are suggesting I start the car and immediately while having a rag covering the oil filler lid, remove the lid and see if i can feel pressure coming up? but surely if something feels like air coming out it will be pressure which isnt that normal for pressure to build up inside? isn't that the purpose of the PCV to release crankcase pressure? What exactly am I looking for here? The main thing I see is seeping oil on the passenger side around the edges of the cam cover. I visually inspected from underneath the car and when I look through the passenger side gap between the transmission bell housing I can see oil staining just above the Air Fuel Ratio sensor on the engine block. The other side is super clean, the silver metal on the block looks like brand new silver colour still. So i'm thinking maybe it's weeping oil down the cam cover seal and it's making it's way down. But it isn't enough for oil to drip down and make any marks on the ground.
  14. So you mean start the car and unscrew the oil filling cap? Isn't that going to cause oil to squirt out and make a mess? Is it safe to open the oil cap when car is running?