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james250

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  • First Name
    James
  • Lexus Model
    IS250
  • Year of Lexus
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Derbyshire

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  1. Great to hear. How did you install the resistors? How did you wire them up? Will probably be helpful for others in the future to know.
  2. From what I've read, the blocked AC drain issue only causes water behind the front seat footwell and not under the dash. You mentioned that water is trickling under the dashboard so I'm thinking it may not be the blocked AC drain issue. But then you mention that the water is clear. If it's clear and not sticky and sweet smelling then it's unlikely to he coolant. There isn't really any other water in the car other than the AC water. Unless your car has clear water filled up instead of pink coolant. No chance of it being rain leaking in somehow? But you mentioned that you've had ac on cold so in which case I doubt it's been raining lol.
  3. Yes I have a 250 but was looking at a CT for a friend of mine so just curious what the two seperate coolant tanks are for. So does the bottles actually pressurise on these instead of a dedicated pressure cap on a radiator or something like the petrol equivalent? So I'm assuming both coolant circuits need servicing at the same time?
  4. Question CT owners, there looks like two coolant bottles in the engine bay on the CT. One on the right and one on the left. Both seem to have pressure warning lid. Can anyone explain what both these are please?
  5. I changed my radiator with a new one, I dont think I have managed to 100% get rid of all the air yet as it took a long time for thermostat to open up because my inside heating was on MAX with A/C off. So i'm going to attempt to burp and bleed it with the funnel method again today. But I thought i would try out a pressure tester that I purchased a while back. I connected it all up and pumped the hand pump to pressurize to 15psi (i think it's supposed to be 16 psi, but i thought i'd play it safe) Actually it was on the right side of the 15 mark and then about 15minutes later i checked it, it was on the left side of the 15 mark, then i left it on there for another 35 minutes meaning a total of 50 minutes and it was still around the 15 mark on the left side of the mark. I would say that in the 50minutes it probably lost 0.8 psi and 90% of this drop happened in the first 15minutes, the remaining time it was rather steady. I have attached a picture illustration below of before and after. I cannot see any visible leaks on the radiator, the hoses or the water pump. Any advice? Is the pressure supposed to remain spot on the entire time? Could air in the system cause this? Also this was done with a cold engine with engine sat over night cooling down.
  6. So I need to do a coolant change, draining the radiator with pressure cap open just barely drains under 5L (including syphoning out overlow bottle) Now I know that there are supposed to be two drain plugs on each side of the engine block, but getting to these are a right pain in the backside. I've drained just under 5L and filled up new coolant. If I run this until engine is warm then cool the car down and repeat the radiator drain again, will that be sufficient? idea is to try and dilute the remaining 4 or 5L that remains in the engine block. By running the car and letting it warm up the new fluid should mix with the fluid in the engine block and then there should be a diluted mix in the radiator. So draining the radiator again and re-filling another 4 or 5L will that work?
  7. Got the bugger off. Found this video soooo helpful. The connector is held in exactly like this. I wedged a tiny screwdriver in from the opposite side while pressing and pulling and it popped straight out
  8. I've pressed down as hard as my fingers can cope and been at it for a good few hours and neither the left or right connector comes off. I tried with screwdriver and the plastic is starting to break
  9. I'm trying to disconnect the connector for the cooling fan (pictured below) But I just cannot seem to get it off. I tried pushing a screwdriver in but wasn't budging and I dont want to break any tabs. Anyone have any suggestion?
  10. I know exactly what you mean as I experienced this issue with the unbranded alternator I bought a while back and luckily eBay gave me full refund. Eventually switched to Denso. Hence why I was looking for Denso radiator but with the very long lead time it seems not practical to wait. And this time I definitely won't be going for anything unbranded. My options are between nissens and nrf. NRF seems to have good reviews, they make radiators and condensers for trucks and stuff. They've been in the game for a long time too. Seeing as it is a reputable brand I think I might just bite the bullet and give it a try
  11. As mentioned above by Razor61 the OEM one is overpriced. Considering Denso is only just over £100 but the lead time for Denso is currently 3-4weeks. I've ready that the nrf is supposed to be a good brand and comes with a 2 year unlimited mileage no quibble warranty and after discount codes comes to only £63 so may bite the bullet on that. Seems like. Reputable brand from all the reading I've done so far.
  12. So I'm looking to replace my radiator and the 3 brands available are NRF, Nissens and Denso. DENSO seem to be out of stock so either I wait for an unknown amount of time or I go with NRF or Nissens. Does anyone know anything about these two brands? Problem with googling it is you always get mixed feedback. Some people say not to get Nissens, not sure about how good NRF brand is. Does anybody have any experience with these brands?
  13. I am suspecting the radiator as I can feel it's a bit wet under the radiator by the drain plug area. Maybe the plastic housing has a crack somewhere. Like you said with the age maybe worth just replacing radiator for now. After car has been running for a while I do get a sweet smell of coolant at the front of the engine bay area. Do you know if the bumper needs removing to change the radiator? Also, with a small leak I'm assuming coolant system will not pressurize and hence could potentially overheat?
  14. My IS250 has some sort of coolant leak for sure as the overflow bottle levels drop even after topping up. It's not a major leak that I can see. My water pump and thermostat were changed few years ago. I cannot see any pink crust anywhere visible. There is no mayonnaise like substance in oil. The only place I see what may seem like crusty pink coolant residue is right along the bottom seam of the radiator. But cannot be sure. Ive seen some UV dye kits on eBay that covers upto 10L of coolant. My question is, is coolant dye safe for our super long life pink coolant? I probably will end up having to drain most of it anyway if I find the leak to change any components
  15. I've been using Armorall Dashboard cleaner and Protectant spray. I've been using this for over 12 years and never had issues. Just past few years I've probably neglected it a little and not applied it as frequently and last few summers have been hot.
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