katabrontes

I would never claim or notify a claim below £1,000. Given the likely excess and the effect on future premiums and possible reduction of NCB the cost would be recovered pretty quickly. Once you notify a claim the insurer treats it as a claim whether or not you proceed with it.

Why not just remove the bulb and blow warm air into the enclosure with a hair dryer. This should clear the condensation at least temporarily. If it recurs I would think that if you simply remove the headlight assembly it should be easy yo see if there is a leak in the seal between the glass and the reflector which could be sealed with a wipe of clear silicon bathroom sealer. As you would have to remove the headlight to replace it not much lost by having a go.

The rear drains come out each side of the rear corners . You can find then under the tray in the luggage compartment. Mine were kinked there so I cut the flexible tube and spliced in a length of 15mm copper pipe which has kept it free of problems ever since.

This is really bad news. I think you would better to cut your losses and dump it.

Having seen a report that many new cars (RR, Ferrari etc) can be stolen by accessing the wiring via a headlight it seems clear that any modern car with a CANBUS system can be stolen this way. The only solution seems to me to need complete physical and electrical separation of the CANBUS alerts included for convenience ( blown bulbs, tyre pressures etc etc) from the security part controlling the immobiliser, alarms etc. This could be easily incorporated into new models but is probably too complicated and expensive to be practical as an upgrade or after market adaption.

So is my 2006 RX350 (at the moment although it might not be after 2025)

Almost certainly the coil. I have the same problem with my 350 all fixed with a replaced coil. Mine had warning lights coming on and a fault code as well.

I had this for several years on my 2006 RX350. It stopped when I replaced my HID main beam conversion with Philips LED headlight bulbs so I concluded it must have been an obscure CANBUS issue. No fault codes ever appeared.

Is a Rolls safe from theft?

I wonder if the provisions of the Consumer Rights Act 2015 might apply here. Goods have to be of merchantable quality and as described in any documents or other description published by the manufacturer or supplier. This includes anything on a website, email, other document or a verbal description if it can be proved. if Lexus makes claims that their cars are especially secure and protected against theft this might be grounds to support a claim. There is no time limit for claims I don't think. Could be worth exploring this.

I have been vacillating over replacing my RX350 with a newer 450, probably 2020 or later. All this has definitely make me much more inclined to keep the 350 for several more years. It's been trouble free since I bought it 12 years ago so apart from a little extra on road tax and petrol the benefit from swapping seems to be confined to the slightly better design of the door cills which don't scuff your trousers as you get out. Not a lot for the extra cost of changing! Servicing is more straightforward and my local garage, 5 minutes walk, have looked after it since I bought it. Otherwise it would mean at last an annual trip to Hedge End, about an hour each way, to have the inverter checked.

Is it possible to reroute the wiring under the wheel arch so it is not accessible? I agree this won't stop the attempt but since it seems the damage from pulling off the wheel arch liner is minimal this isn't really a big problem. If the wiring can be rerouted so it is above the wheel arch inside the bonnet then it should be harder to access.

This rust looks pretty bad to me. It is quite deep in places where important structural components are attached. What did the last MoT say about it?

Check your credit card provider. Mine has just improved the cover so that covers cars of any age. Saga offers European cover for £125.

I think I might have the answer to this problem which has defied my and my garage's efforts to diagnose it for several years. Since I fitted the new LED headlights the occasional persistent warning lights (VSC, ABS & Brakes) which either stayed on or came on unpredictably have reverted to their correct situation and stayed off all the time. I assume the fault, which has never been identified and do isn't produce any error codes, was due to a CanBus error caused by the old HID conversion.

I recently changed the HID bulbs to Philips LED which are brighter, easier to fit as they don't need separate high voltage drivers and come on instantly. The irritating problem with the persisting VLC, ABS and Brake warning lights has also been solved so presumably this a CanBus error created by the HID conversion.

PS Actually this isn't the AFS problem but the triple warning light (ABS, Brakes & VLC) problem.

I think I might have the answer to this problem which has defied my and my garage's efforts to diagnose it for several years. Since I fitted the new LED headlights the occasional persistent warning lights (VSC, ABS & Brakes) which either stayed on or came on unpredictably have reverted to their correct situation and stayed off all the time. I assume the fault, which has never been identified and do isn't produce any error codes, was due to a CanBus error caused by the old HID conversion.

I had an HID conversion from Autobulbs Direct for the main beams (Ihave Lexus HID on the dipped) about 6 years ago which were excellent apart from a short delay while they warmed up when first switched on. I have just replaced these with Philips LED also from ABD which cost a little more (£129.99) but are brighter, come on immediately and don't need the external high voltage drivers either so a bit safer if you need to change them. They are a bit tricky to fit as the instructions that come with them are not very good. They need to be aligned so that the 'bar' on the top of the LED is on top and theLED module is vertically aligned in the headlight. Download the installation instructions which show how to do this. Take special care when unscrewing the small hex screws to lock the mounting ring after rotating it to align the bulbs as it is quite fragile and unless you hold it down firmly, as recommended, the screw will chew up the notches on the ring preventing it from locking securely.

Can this feature be disabled?Can the keyless feature be disabled ?

One further point that hasn't been mentioned is future insurance. As I understand it one a potential claim has been notified to insurers whether or not it is pursued they treat it as a claim and this will affect NCB and future premiums over the next several years. Last year while in France someone reversed into my parked car and damaged one of the doors. It wasn't too bad and as the car is now 17 years old and I am not concerned about it appearance I was going to leave it. In the end I decide to get it pulled out and re sprayed which cost about £500. I didn't mention it to my insurers and will not record it as an accident or claim in future renewals. I hope you can unwind the mess that has arisen here. You will certainly be better to recover the car and repair it ( better the devil you know etc). The insurers will try to roast you over the value and it will certainly cost you more to replace it with anything similar or newer which will come with unknown problems. Mike

Why not just keep the car and get it fixed? Why would you have to buy it back from the insurers? I wouldn't have let them take it. I assume it's still drivable so you should be able to collect it and take it home. Try to cancel the claim and find a cheap panel beater to patch it up. Probably better to convert to third party F&T as if they will write it off for this amount of damage its hardly worth the extra cost of comprehensive insurance.

Check the MoT results for mileage.

Interesting. I had my ATF changed( well most of it as the gearbox won't drain completely) after watching a UTube video from the Car Nut. He advised changing the ATF at 60K even though Lexus state it never needs changing and my garage said the same. Car Nut's point was that ATF is cheap but the gearbox is probably the most expensive repair on most auto cars. Having read your post I am very glad I did.

Hi Greg i think the 350 is a good choice. Mine (2005) has been pretty well trouble free since I bought it in 2010 apart from a persisting irritating tendency for the AFS off, and the triple VSC, ABS etc which come on from time to time but haven't caused an MOT problem and no error codes come up. I did have a wet corner in the boot a while ago poole and, like you, found the bottom of the NS drain hose was kinked. I replaced the last 4" or so with copper pipe and it has been fine since. I haven't had any leaks from the roof rail mounts or into the rear lights. I am reluctant to replace it with a 450 as they seem to have all the same problems as reported on 350s plus a few more mainly related to the standby battery. I plan to keep it for at least another 5 years unless a major problem develops. Following the advice of the Car Nut on Utube I replaced ( well about 2/3) the transmission fluid even though Lexus and my garage said it wasn't necessary. As the video says gearboxes are very expensive and this was pretty cheap insurance. I am sure you will enjoy the car. Apart from the improved design of the door cills and the wing mirror cameras I don't think the near 450 ( 2015+) have much to offer over a 350.