Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


SpOcK

Established Member
  • Posts

    253
  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Profiles

Forums

Events

Store

Gallery

Tutorials

Lexus Owners Club

Gold Membership Discounts

Lexus Owners Club Video

News & Articles

Everything posted by SpOcK

  1. That's exactly what I'm about to do, and that's why I would need to know the thread.
  2. Hiyall, My question is simple: Does anyone know what is the size and thread of the bolt at the front end of the Fuel Delivery Pipe (see red circle in the attached picture)? Cheers, Sami
  3. Thanks Mat, I value your input! :) I'm not surprised there's no recorded / publicly available data on 1G-FE's cam timing, but maybe we can speculate on this on a generic level, then? My technician took an oscilloscope reading off of the cam, and there's a difference of an opinion whether it operates as it should. Spark and fuel control have been taken away from the command of the std ecu, and are now being controlled by the after market ecu. Therefore inlet manifold length and cam timing are the only things still controlled by the std ecu. Now it seems that @ idle the cam is retarded, advancing towards the middle-range, only to be retarded again to "idle setting" nearer to the rev limiter. One opinion is that, that's what it's supposed to do, while the other opinion is that the inlet cam should be advancing all the way towards the rev limiter, b/c in higher revs the inertia of the air being inputted/forced into the cylinder overcomes the force of a piston heading towards the TDC. Am I onto something here, or am I totally lost...? Any insight would be helpful! Cheers, Sami
  4. Thank you SparkyStav for your reply/PM, I really appreciate it! :) This will really help me with the mapping. Mine is 1G-FE, while Stav's is 1G-GTE (right?). What I'm trying to accomplish here, is to boost the std engine (upgraded internals, though) and have a mappable stand-alone ECU, but to still maintain the original ECU's OBD-II functionality, as required by Finnish legislation. My second question still remains unanswered, though. Anyone in the know of how std engine operates the inlet valves/cam? Anyone ever scoped this? In my case the inlet cam seems to be retarded at idle, then advancing under load, just to retard again a little before rev limit (~5000 rpm). Is this right? Shouldn't it be advancing all the way until the rev limit? BR, Sami
  5. If the clutch was slipping, IMO the revs would then rise, not fall... Right? :winky:
  6. Hiya, I have basically two questions (and a few 'sub-questions' ). 1. Does anyone know what exactly is the map signal clamping voltage of the 'black box' ecu included in the TTE S/C kit? Additionally: - Does anyone have circuit diagram of such device and also the exact ecu pins is should be connected to? OR - Has anyone ever taken such a device apart, for to able to tell me what components it consists of? 2. Does anyone know the valve timing 'curve' or 'map' of a standard 1G-FE engine (degrees vs. load/rpm)? Any help would be highly appreciated, as these two issues seem to be the biggest hurdles on my twin-turbo project's way. EDIT: Sorry if this/these has/have been covered before, but I just spent almost three hours browsing this forum, but couldn't find the answer...
  7. For those of you who may have some interest in my project's progression, here's an update. I have bot good and bad news (but the bad news are still sort of good... ;) ) First a little foreword, then I'll start with the bad news. The new bigger KKK K04 turbos I've had coming for already awhile now, finally arrived on Monday. In order to try saving some money, I asked the garage that has my car because of the new ecu being fitted and mapped, if I could come and fit the new turbos myself, and it was ok with them. So, I've now spent two days in their garage taking out the old ones and replacing them with the new turbos. Because these turbos are not designed for 1G-FE (but for Audi B5 RS4 2.7 L Bi-Turbo), for the water and oil cooling inlets and outlets to be positioned correctly, the turbos are installed "upside-down" in my car. And because of that, the "body" (the part between compressor and turbine housings) had to be rotated 180°, and the compressor housing a few degrees for the turbos to fit. Now the bad news are, that there were a few ruptures and leaks in the oil and water lines for the turbos, because of they've "aged" and become "crispy" due to those extreme temperature changes within the engine bay. There was also a plastic (white colored) T-junction used in the pressure line going from the boost controller solenoid to those two turbos, which had melted down to a brownish piece of goo. The other end of the "T" had melted shut, the other still had a little opening through it. That meaning the other turbo was only boosting against its wastegate actuator's spring tension, and thus seizing to boost @ 0.4 bar when the spring tension was over-powered, while the other turbo was boosting all the way up to 1.1 bar. Both turbos are run by three cylinders only, which means that while the boost between the turbos was asymmetrical, so was the back-pressure for the three first and the three last cylinders, and THAT meaning that the "filling" of the cylinder and the AFR between the cylinders was not constant, leading into heavy knocking when the car was floored. The good part of the bad news is, that now that these problems have been acknowledged and addressed, I may have been able to prevent a disastrous near-future from happening. The good news is, that now the old turbos are out and the new turbos are in. Everything else is also fixed, except one waterline, for which I didn't have a replacement and all the stores were already closed, but the garage will replace it for me. After that the car just has to be mapped (almost) from square one, as all the fuel adjustments and spark timings are for the old "asymmetric" turbo setup. After the car has been correctly re-mapped, I'm looking for figures starting with the digit "4"... Wish me luck, and I'll let you know when there's some more progress. Here are some pictures of the old and the new turbos. Guess which one is which...
  8. Always nice to see someone else taking the (hard) turbo road. ;) As per my experience, I would advice doing the "internals" while you're at it, but if your budget won't allow that, I'd say you'd better stay under .4 bar to be on a safe side /w stock internals. Mine gave up @ .7 bar. The standard con rods are like matches compared to the forged H-profile rods I now have (which are rated 200 hp / each -> 6 x 200 = 1200hp). Std pistons will also crumble like cookies under (any higher) boost. I think that if you do a search for my posts, you'll find pics comparing std and after market rods. There's a difference... On the contrary to the many suggestions here, the "fuel line upgrade" is NOT one of the first things you should (must) do. Just upgrade the injectors, and be sure you have something to tell them what to do (i.e. after market ecu). It depends on your car's year model and/or where you live, whether you have to worry about things like emissions and/or the OBD-system (I did have to worry about those). But if you don't, the project will be much more easier (and cheaper)! But having owned and driven both supercharged and turbo'ed IS200, I'd say that you cannot even mention both on the same day. There's a world of difference... So, if money is not an issue, you'll know what to do. Of course there's also always the satisfaction factor of doing something that only few have done before. And because we all know there's no "off-the-shelf" option for turboing an IS200, you have to manufacture it urself - or have someone do it for you - instead, it's all the more satisfying when you get there! B)
  9. Since I wanted (=had) to maintain the std ecu for the OBD-II system to still remain operational, the new ecu is not located in the engine bay, but in the glove compartment instead. So the ecu was dangling from its wiring in the front passenger's foot well, not in the engine bay.
  10. Unfortunately, I do not have any good news. That day turned out NOT to be The Day... :tsktsk: I travelled for two hours by train to get to the garage to pick up my car. When I got there, there still were some unfinished stuff going on with the car. For example the ecu was not fastened at all, but it was dangling at the end of its wiring loom. It seems that there'd been some misunderstanding between the two mechanics. The other was in belief that the other had finished the installation, and vice versa, so neither had actually done it. The mechanic who was supposed to hand over the car insisted for us to go for a test drive before I got on my way. And I'm happy he did... The installation in itself was a-ok, but the mapping on the other hand was not. The car wouldn't start as easily as it normally should and it wouldn't idle normally until it had warmed up. When driving the car, it wouldn't pull as I remember it pulling with the old eManage ecu installed. They said they'd had to make some compromises with the mapping contrary to being able to go "all out" on the performance side of things, because of the upcoming emission tests. So that was ok with me. Lexus' electronic throttle body was also giving a hard time, and it still being controlled by the original ecu, it made the car to shut down when coming to a stop on a crossing after driving. Also driving the car to the rev limiter caused the original ecu to go to a "limp mode" and having the the CEL and TRC lights flashing wildly. So I decided not to accept the car yet, as it clearly was not finished, but told them to finish the adjustments before I come again and pick up the car. Hopefully they get it sorted as soon as possible, and I'll get my vehicle back at last...
  11. Unfortunately the garage carrying out this ecu install is ~200 km away, so I haven't seen the car even myself yet. And since it's an ecu install, there's probably not so much 'visible' changes done. Everything looks still the same as in the pictures I have posted earlier (you can do a search of my old posts). But when I get the car back and the new turbos are installed, I'll post some more piccies. Cheers, Sami
  12. Hello world! (no, I'm not a codeweaver, just happy... ;) ) Once again it's been too long since last time. A lot has happened almost in every other field in my life, except anything related to my car project, so maybe that's kept me away... Someone may still remember my somewhat long and rocky road with my project. I had my twin-turbo setup installed (I cannot even remember anymore, but maybe like) four years ago, then suffered from an engine failure (due to too much boost w/ std internals), had the engine rebuild (block bored, forged pistons, H-profile cams, the whole lot...), only to learn that I wasn't going to pass the (very strict Finnish) emission regulations and thus not getting my car MOT'd. Even that was like 2 years ago, so from there on I only drove when I 'had to', and tried to stay 'under the radar' and avoid police or other officials. Ever since I've been trying to figure out how to A) keep my turbo setup (there's never too much power, eh?) AND B ) meet the emission regulations AND C) maintain the OBD-II system (required in Finland) AND D) get the car through MOT AND E) have a fully mappable aftermarket ECU. Since there wasn't an off-the-shelf solution, it had to be made... My car has now been a good while in a garage who came up with a solution. And yesterday, I finally got good news... Almost all the work is now done (still something with the std rev-limiter and the CEL, but it'll be sorted out soon), and they managed to get the first dyno run w/ the new ECU. And the result? 310 hp / 378 Nm @ 1 bar. Not bad, I would say, since my car is/will be the first (and/or only) in the world to have the following (at least, as far I know..): - 1G-FE w/ twin-turbo setup and - pass the Euro3 emission regulations and - a working OBD-II system and - put out 300+ hp (hopefully 400+ hp in the near future, I have bigger turbos already on the way...) and - fully mappable ECU (developed and manufactured in Finland, meets and even exceeds specifications of many 'well-known brands'!) As soon as the garage is done and I have all the 'official stuff' cleared (emission tests, MOT, etc) and the turbos upgraded, I'll post more info and maybe a dyno sheet. Cheers, Sami
  13. Anyone still have the TTE compressor kit homologation certificate on their hard drive? I did a search on tte.de and they do not have it anymore online. :( There's a slight chance that I could use that to get my car MOT'd (although this certificate is for supercharged engine, not turbo'd)...
  14. Does anyone know such a car with the certificates? That's the whole point to pass the MOT with the turbo's, as I'm tired of the hide and seek with the officials... I FIRST have to have the car registered as "after market turbo'd" (which to accomplish I would either have to go through a very expensive test OR certificate from a similar car) and THEN I would still have the pass the yearly "ordinary" MOT. And as long as the MOT engineer is not completely blind, he would probably see the huge I/C peeking from behind the front bumper, so telling "it's never even seen a turbo" is not an option. And they would open the hood in any case to record the VIN in the engine bay. No invoice from a garage, since everything is self-fabricated, and it still wouldn't steer me clear, as I can't prove that the emissions have not increased due to the turboing. So nothing else than an official document from a similar car really will do...
  15. Howdy-doody, Folks! Long time, no... eerm... write. Some of you might remember me, even though it's been quite a while since I last posted here. I've paid a visit here every now then, but I've had so much happening lately, that coming here as often as I would have wanted hasn't been possible. Hope you accept my apologies... ;) But now, let's cut to the chase. As some of you might also remember, I have a twin-turbo'd 1G-FE IS200 to which all the bits and bobs are home-brewn, so I don't have any "official documents" nor certificates of the turbo kit laying around to help me go through the MOT. Trying to get my baby through the MOT has been a long and winding road, as the Finnish legislation has done its best to take the wind out of my sails. The main problem being that after installing the turbo, I'm required to be able to prove that the engine will not produce more emissions than while being naturally aspirated. Only way to prove that is to go through a VERY expensive test carried out in officially accredited test facility. Now, as of May 1st Finland will honour also a certificate issued to a similar car in any other (European) country. I BIG win for us here in Finland! :) Now my question is, is there anyone anywhere who had gone down the turbo road, and had their car MOT'd with the turbo and with ANY kind of approval or official documents, and who would also be willing to send me a copy of such a document to help me to get past my MOT? Your help would be extremely appreciated! Best Regards, Sami p.s. If such a person will not come forward or doesn't see this post, could someone maybe knowing such a person please give me a pointer to a right direction? I'm getting pretty desperate, If you couldn't tell already...
  16. Great, I knew I could count on you Mat! :) Any idea what is the difference between the ecu-connectors (or pin-outs) of those two mentioned year models (2001 or 2002+)? Will they both fit, so I can order the cheaper one... from what i have worked out myself, its the number of pins thats different And the right one for me of those two would be...? :duh:
  17. The reason I'm asking this in the first place, is that I'm getting THIS installed, and using the "extension harness" saves me from ruining my original harness. Plus as an added bonus it eases the installation, as all the soldering etc can be done sitting down at a desk instead of crouching in the engine bay...
  18. Great, I knew I could count on you Mat! :) Any idea what is the difference between the ecu-connectors (or pin-outs) of those two mentioned year models (2001 or 2002+)? Will they both fit, so I can order the cheaper one...
  19. As the title suggests, my question is that are the ecu-connectors from IS200 and IS300 the same. Physically, that is. I've been studying eManage Ultimates installation manual, and it seems that they are of same shape and size, but the manual is a photo-copy and thus quite smudgy... One can tell from the pictures in eManage manuals that the pin-order is not the same (and for the reason I'm asking they don't have to be), I just want to know would the connectors from IS300 fit to IS200's ecu? And still to say it another way: will THIS fit also to IS200? They seem to have two different kinds for different year models. Which one will/could fit to my 2001 IS200? Those in the know, please let me know. Thanks!
  20. Having used both eManage Blue and Ultimate, I would choose Ultimate over Blue ANYTIME! It's just SO much smarter. It's a little bit more difficult to install (more wires), but it's defo worth it. Ultimate has a few excellent features that Blue doesn't have, and "A/F Auto Tune" alone is worth that little extra $$$ that the Ultimate costs. Of course with A/F Auto Tune you would need extra wideband Lambda sensor installed, but IMO that's a very crucial part of any tuned car (you can think of it as an insurance for the engine's health). I bought mine from www.mohdparts.com and I have to say that everything went as smooth as one could wish. If you have any specific eManage questions, I'll be happy to help. Cheers, Sami
  21. I think I can't make it to JAE, as my vacation is not until August... :P JAE is in JULY!!!! :P So you have to COME!!! :D JAE being in July is the reason I cannot make it. If it was in August during my vacation, I could probably make it then. It's quite a drive from Finland, so it's not just a case of "drop-by" for a weekend...
  22. Thanks Mate! Not looking bad at all for yourself, either! :D Next stop is to come after you... It's just that my current turbos are only rated for ~180hp/pc. But then again, barriers are meant to be broken! Aren't they?
  23. Yeah, it seems that my luck has finally had a turn for the better... :winky: The top figure I now have is too much for the Finnish MOT (engine is allowed to have only +20% power to the most powerful model of its model series, IS300 in this case), so I had to de-tune it down to ~250hp by using only ~0.25bar boost and overly retarded spark... (which still is quite an impressive figure, IMHO) Std ECU cannot be remapped in any way, but by disengaging the boost controller the turbos run only against the mechanical actuators(?) which have lower give-in pressure, and by retarding the spark with eManage, the de-tune can be achieved.
×
×
  • Create New...