Leozack

Anyone? Someone suggested I wire the curtesy lighting that comes on when you blip unlock the car and the main lighting that is on anytime the sidelights are on to a switch in the cabin and wire that to the inside lights (instead of using the USB connection) - that was they will come on when I unlock the car like I want, but I can then flip the switch and they will stay on while driving and then I can flip it again when I get out so they're ready to come on with the unlock again later. Is that possible? Or a terrible idea? Is there a better way people hookup their nice colour interior lights? The big light strip to try and find a way to be under the front bonnet edge but visible would be good if it did the same, otherwise I'll never even see it if it only came on with the lights once I'm inside the car 😅 I'm also tempted to use a gluegun to add a couple dots to the lightstrips to hand under the front footwells and front seats as a hopefully-removable alternative to peeling the stickyback off and sticking them on which would presumably need cut-scraping off if I needed to move them or anything 🤔

Yeah I looked online but failed to find any filters matching the code or size, other than the ones from the lexus parts direct place now. Are you aware of anywhere else seeing the right one for a 2003 IS300? Even the LPD place only charges about £15 or somat. I've currently taped the lights on to get a feel for it before committing, but I could use the stick stuff on the back of them, or make them removable via your velcro idea. I'm also struggling with how I could get them to come on when you unlock the car and stay on, since currently they power from USB so only come on/stay on when the keys are turned.

Hi all. I have some footwell lighting I thought I'd install for fun. However I'm wondering what the best way to rig interior lighting is. The way I see it there are 3 entry points - USB which is on whenever the keys are turned, sidelighting which is on anytime lights are turned on, and curtesy lighting which comes on when you unlock the car or open the door. Ideally I think it would be nice for these lights to come on when you unlock the car - but those lights (such as the ignition barrel) turn off after a short time. Is there any way to connect lights so they come on when you unlock the car but stay on afterwards? Likewise I have some extra lighting for the front that would be nice if it came on when you unlock the car rather than only while you have the lights turned on, but also stays on as long as the lights are on. How have other people hooked theirs up?

That does look nice! Yeah if the sils were a swapout I'd have already done it definitely. I'm just not sure how much is going to be needed to properly get it out and then protect it from returning. Mine doesn't have any skirts or anything on it and since it's my daily it doesn't get to sit clean in a garage and come out for show, it's usually dirty and the bloody brake dust is real. Then again I think there's always at least 1 caliper seized, usually front o/s, making more dust. Doesn't help my work carpark is gravel by a river too 😅 I've struggled to find recommended IS or bodywork people or preferably a combo. I've ended up recommended to a guy by Chippenham who then doesn't do the rust/bodywork either but knows someone else who does - and that's 20+ miles from me so can't just pop over. Don't you wish you lived next door to a mechanic who was an expert with your car 😁

I'm no opposed to paying for the bigger job to be done *if* it is going to save the car and keep it going another 10y or whatever. The car itself will probably keep going beyond what this poor body can handle with the rain/mud. But I currently have no idea on how much would need doing or therefore the cost, so it's not ideal. Hindsight is beautiful and of course I wish I could roll the car back in time and clean the arches out regularly and apply some kind of product underneath and/or on these painted to stop the rust in the first place. I guess the reality is I can't afford any kind of car to rival this one if I had to replace it, it's just too good. I also value the time/money I've spent on it.

Hi all - when I bought my car the spoiler had a crack on 1 end which has since had a bit come off. Then at 1 point trying to investigate a rattle noone has found in any garage including Lexus, I accidentally rolled it backwards into my house and the concrete window sill pushed on the bar over the numberplate making the back bend in. I'm unsure what the best option is for dealing with it, as I've been unable to push/pull/pop the bending back out, and I have no way to easily fix the spoiler? Also some idiot broke one of my rear cluster covers and I've never found a cheap one to replace it with. Has anyone sourced these cheaply now the days of high supply spare cars are gone?

Hi all - I'm wondering what the best options are for longevity when your car has suffered with the arch/sill rust problem. Mine is an IS300 2003. I've had mine welded for a couple of years to pass the MOT, but I'd prefer to find a way to get it done in a bigger job to stop it needing it every year getting worse. Is it possible? Or is it just going to die if it lives in a rainy country and has no garage? Being my daily driver it can't live in hiding, either. Currently it looks like this

I should note I also used the Keiurot T5 74 small LEDs for the glovebox light as well as the shifter light and cluster 2 smaller lights in top right & bottom left I used the KATUR T10 194 LEDs for the front sidelights and the cluster 3 bigger lights I am yet to confirm which lights to use for the sunvisor light and map light I think the sunvisor uses these 31mm bulbs? https://www.amazon.co.uk/KaTur-Bright-Replacement-Interior-Dashboard/dp/B06XJ74ZJM The map light is a twist in bulb and I *think* these bulbs will do it though they have the code for the 'dome' of DE3175 and the 'step/courtesy' of DE3021 so no idea https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XJ74ZJM/ I am yet to find anywhere that shows me how to change the dome light as everything I find online has a different dome light unit in the middle of the ceiling to what I have, pictured below - and since I can't take it off, I can't confirm what bulb is needed.

Thanks - didn't know about the swindon dealership online store - they do seem to have a LOT of the parts (eyeballing a front wing and back quarter and spoiler and read lights since I can't find any good breakers to source from). I was about to buy the air filter but I think I should probably get a service done which should include it - even from a local garage. The striplights question was just if anyone had tips for fitting things eg underneath the glovebox or under the front seats for footwell lighting, without using the sort of stickytape they come with.

Hi all! I've failed to find a UK seller of cabin air filters for the IS 2001 era. The ones I see on amazon etc seem to be US imports and mostly the wrong size/don't look the same. Can anyone recommend me ones that work well? Sidenote while I'm here - any recommendation on ways to stick/fix things eg striplights without using horrible stickyback tape on the dash/seats etc?

Update! If all your lights aren't working, I believe the solution above was replacing the fuse labelled PANEL. For lighting/bulb problems, read my update on this post

Update! So those sockets you linked on ebay look like they may have been the right size, but look like the 'latch' bit on the side would be too wide for the gaps in the PCB which is why these ones I bought for the bigger size bulbs are useless and I went back to using the originals https://www.amazon.co.uk/Socket-Instrument-Panel-Cluster-Holder/dp/B09B3SF6BB These ones I used in the dash for the 2 small ones including their sockets to replace the 2 blue sockets, and they worked well! I also used these lights to fit in the gearshift light and it fits nicely as it's short! And no flickering at all! Only down side is the light is pointed end on whereas the gearshift to light is above it when it's fixed in place sideways, but can't complain at finally having a non flickering gearshift light! Just be nice if there were some of these small wedge bulbs where the LED was mounted for sideways illumination not end-on? I also used them for the ashtray light which was a tight fit in the socket but works fine https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09J7TG2PK IMPORTANTLY : The LEDs I had tried before were the ones with 2 wires sticking out of them as seen in my above posts, and the flickering problem you see in the video happened on the cluster ones too. The fact I can't find any like that now and the fact the ones I'm using are all the type where the actual pcb board with metal contacts is used to plug in (like the ones linked in this post) instead of plastic holders with flimsy wires is probably the reason. Last night I had to solder a load of the wire ones back on as the wires come off when you pull them out of the sockets. Basically, don't get any like you see in previous posts, get ones like you see in this post where you're plugging board in not plastic with wires wrapped on it. These ones below I just put in the front for sidelights and work well https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071LNH2D3 Below images are my cluster when I had a blue one in temporarily until I resoldered some white ones, my ghetto battery setup to test lights with, my gear shifter finally lit up after about 15y (note the handgel bottle being lit up amazingly by the ashtray light it's next to - super cool effect I've seen used in the cupholder if you cut a hole for a light there!), the ashtray socket and the wedge LED I struggled but succeeded to get in there, and the gearshifter light without the cover on so you can see the bright spot it makes by pointing sideways when you want it to light up & sideways/around really

Does anyone have any links for LEDs that are super short so they can go in the shifter socket (but also spreads out sideways not just end on which is point blank at a plastic lump)? It needs to not stick out anymore than the orange covered bulb shown below. Does anyone have tips on how to fix that light going off when I turn the socket in the video above? The 2 wires into the socket look pretty stable/fixed and don't move so I don't know what part where is the issue. I can't see a way to get the wires out and stripe the ends and refit them - are there pre-wired sockets I can buy that I can then join the wires up? Does anyone have any links to replacements for the blue holder you see in the 2 pics below?

I believe for LEDs the resistor stopping them blowing is what you see inside the plastic plug casings (which stops me shortening their length which I need to do for some of these sockets, as seen in the pic below. The burned looking pic I included before was actually a normal bulb, so it's not a burnt LED which you might have thought. I've included holder pic and video of twisty holder issue on the shifter light on my other thread now. As for that ebay link, those look like the small round flat bulbs that go behind the heating dials and stuff? I've not touched those and have no desire to change them

I believe for LEDs the resistor stopping them blowing is what you see inside the plastic plug casings (which stops me shortening their length which I need to do for some of these sockets, as seen in the pic below. The bulb holder that goes behind either the RPM or Fuel gauge is the blue one in the pic below - where can I buy these? The issue may not be the holder but where the holder rubs on the board as you twist it in - I'm not sure how I can help that connection if it's the issue 😕 Video attached shows my current issue with the shifter light as it seems to go off when twisting the holder. Will I need to chip & replace the wire, refit the wire into the holder (it looks pretty fixed/ok) or what? 🤔 VID_20210830_175915.mp4

If you have literally the same issue of that selection of lights being off, then check the 7.5A fuse labelled PANEL rather than the 10A fuse labelled GAUGE which is what I had previously checked. You'll probably find it needs replacing. Then you're just back to issues of bad bulbs/connections which I am trying to resolve. I haven't found anywhere I can buy the plastic "holders" you put the bulbs into which you then twist into place on the cluster or elsewhere. If anyone has links (and links for SHORT LEDs - see below) that'd be great

I haven't - maybe that's a good plan 🤔

If anyone has experience with this light, or knows where I can buy LEDs that fit (same for the ashtray that also doesn't fit my dome one and the direct one doesn't really light it) that'd be great. I don't think I'll be bothering to remove the wired-in cigar lighter light for an LED though it looks simple enough in this video

Yes. At 13.00 in this video you see him replacing it even though he wasn't going to. My issue is 1 the LEDs seem to stick out too far and 2 the socket/wire seems to result in an intermittently flickering bulb so I dunno what I can do about that - I don't wanna put this back together and have a flicker 😕

So I played around some more and also found the domed LED don't fit in the ashtray space either and the no-domed ones are too directional upwards whereas they need to go sideways. I may be able to squeeze a non-domed one into the shifter light spot but I'm fairly sure there is an issue with either the holder's connectivity causing them to flicker (multiple bulbs) or the wire going into it. I don't really have a way to test 😞 But I'll at least need shorter but side illuminating LEDs if possible? I thought maybe I could trim the top off the plastic but there is a little resistor or something on 1 of the wires from the bulb in there so I can't save any vertical space that way 😞

So amongst other light/wiring stuff I've dealt with, I had the centre console stuff out so thought I'd replace the shifter bulb with an LED as it had often flickered or gone off. However it turns out the problem is most likely the holder the bulb sits in and my LEDs also struggle to stay in it, and if I put a bulb in and tap the holder it often flickers off/on again. The other issue is my LEDs seem too long to be used since this bulb is held in the clear plastic shifter guard and when you try to clip that down on the shifter it has an annoying white plastic block point blank in front of the LED so it just knocks my LEDs out of this loose bulb holder. Anyone got any tips or parts I can use? I could try to put it back together with the original bulb but it's still going to annoy my if it keeps going off cos of a looser holder or whatever 😞 Attached a pic showing where the bulb is held in the guard, and compared to the LEDs I have spare in size

So in the end it seems the fuse was burnt out but it was the 7.5A fuse labelled PANEL on my little layout sticker - at least I believe so cos I had someone else come and fix it and he gave me a broken 7.5A one and it wasn't the starter 😛 I also had issues with the bulbs/seating but I've mostly got it all working now. I believe there is still one of the 2 blue bulb holders for the cluster causing an issue as 1 side or the other seems to flicker and I've swapped the holder/bulb around to try and establish the cause. I'll have to try and lookup where I can buy a replacement one to try

Welp - I'm currently going about with a dismantled cluster/center console. I hoped someone might have some ideas cos I'm all out, myself 😞

So I've currently dismantled the center console around the gearshift and the cluster stuff around the steeringwheel. I've finally got to the bulb for the gearshift that started going off sometimes and swapped it for an LED though I tested the original bulb and it lights ok? I could technically replace the ashtray light if I could see how to get to it easily in its unit. Disturbingly I found a pile of ash inside the center console under where the ashtray goes - disgusting, and dirty in there. Unfortunately 1 of the screws for the side of the center console seems to have fallen down into the middle somewhere so think that's a goner for now. I also swapped the TRC button to the middle and moved the driver heated seat button to the right, as it looks better (had to pile some plastic oiff the TRC button to fit it in, though) But all of this is is somewhat irrelevant - it is all to try and work out why my instrument lights in the cluster don't work whilst all the warning lights in there do - as in my original post. I don't think it's the fuse as I said above - what else could it be? I have now shorted the brown/white & green/white on the dimmer switch cable which should result in the 8v I tested on it remaining on so max brightness for the lights - still nothing, so I guess that eliminates the dimmer switch? I am now thinking maybe when unplugging the console with those horrible clip plugs I have pulled/damaged 1 of the cables in the wiring? I was wondering if there is any way I could test the wires with the multimeter, or any way to test the sockets on the cluster (surely there is a way to feed 9v power to the right pin to light up the instrument lights if they are in fact working?) I found a link to all the wiring stuff for the whole car but despite finding what I think is the 2 cluster plugs/sockets, I don't know how I can test the wires with this information. Can anyone help? The plug wiring image is below, this is the pdf it came from http://www.2jzgarage.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Body-Electrical-BE.pdf video-1624386196.mp4

Hi all I've read around the net and found some bizarre tales of cluster issues ... but in my case I previously replaced the lights with white LED cos they look much better. After a year or so the one behind the RPM started flickering sometimes. So I took it out and replaced it and seemed ok - but then that one started flickering. I did have a few days driving around with no cluster which was kind of liberating and fun 😅 I figured my only option left was to try and replace the little bulb holder (assuming I could find the right one cheap somewhere, but dunno what it's part number is or anything). However, before I could think more about that, the entire cluster stopped lighting up the other day. Currently the emergency/security lights all work but just not the ones behind the instruments. I read on some threads that it would relate to the 1F fuse in the drive side fusebox as that powers those lights and also the TRC/SNOW/PWR lights and sure enough those other lights don't work either. I just found my way into the ridiculously impossible to get at drive side fuse box and checked the fuse labelled guage on the cover - it looked fine. I took the one labelled tail out and put that in (both 10a) - guage lights still didn't work but tail lights didn't so I put them back. But now I'm at a loss as to what to do next? If it's not the fuse, what could it be? Also any tips on the flickering one (is the holder likely to be a fault with connection etc?) The only one that's gone off before is the 1 under the shifter numbers and that's too much of a pain to get to for me to try and replace it with an LED really 😕