CustomIce

They will also accumulate dirt and moisture behind them aiding in further corrosion to the "real" ones.

Welcome :) It wasn't one that was up for sale near liverpool (trader) in Birkenhead was it?

I doubt it. It is something i have considered though! I'm sure there are a few others on here that have done the work already, Tigerfish will undoubtedly be along to give some much improved advice!

You are int he same boat as me, you will need to buy a climate control module from a non navigation model, a fascia adaptor kit and the ISO wiring harness, then you will most likely need to spend some time altering the ISO loom to work with the navigator wiring, which isn't 100% compatible with the ISO adaptor looms! I have a sneaking suspicion the problem is to do with the driver's door speaker wiring, which will loop through the boot mounted nav computer and back, this may need intercepting to work properly, or run new speaker cable! Hope that helps. PS the climate control modules are getting rare at reasonable money!

Yeah it is on my watch email list. 1st Choice spares i've had quotes for £80 plus shipping from breakers....now come on, play nice!

Hi all. I am after a climate control module to fit in place of my CD Nav head unit and (when i finally buy) new double din. I'm based in North Wales, and need to do this as "on a budget" as possible. Let me know what you have. Thanks.

I had a bit of luck over the weekend. My eldest (5 years old) was loading his spiderman foam disc "web slinger" while in the front of the car. He subsequently loses several discs under the front passenger seat. Telling him I will retrieve them when we stop, he's satisfied with that and continues his new line of philosophical questioning (he's interested in the subject of mortality) "How many days until we die?" I try to explain while keeping it kid friendly, if that is even possible. Stopping at the end of the journey I proceed to seek out these little foam discs that are somewhere under the seat. Eventually finding them, along with something I wasn't expecting....all the spare keys for the car! Both the dealer I bought it from and the previous owner had no idea they were there. I now have a working master key! - I can now program in the spare remote key! Wooohooo Who said kids were good for nothing!

Unless like mine, your wife has more crashes than a season of F1. :( Good price though, I was pleasantly suprised in the relatively low increase in premium moving from my Suzuki Wagon R (1.3) to my GS300.

Terrifying. when you begin to think about the connected world (internet of things/IOT) you can really become paranoid when things like this surface!

I've had some odd behaviour with tyres, check that they are actually round and no sidewall egg or tread egg is present from a knock or pothole - delaminated ply can cause all kinds of wierdness (and a blowout) Bearings should be more noticeable when cornering also, but are usually easily diagnosed by mechanics.

:) Yup inside is like it has never been used. Can't comment on the updates, as i've only ever seen this version, but as already stated above i suspect it is more to do with maps and routing optimisations.

the likelyhood is you'd get away with an infintie baffle (free air) sub But repair is more likely to produce the best outcome.

After reading some info about the security light looks like at some point my key has been coded as a valet or at least not master, the blade locks and unlocks everything but I can't code a new transponder. Weirdly though I could sort the remote programming out for the other key.

I do electronics and cut my teeth in pro audio repair ;) I have a bit of an understanding you might say :)

metal shields on the rear of the dics catching? They can be more wobbly than the rest of the braking system components, and can suffer with small stones stuck behind them. If you changed the spec of the discs then you may be running too close to the shield. Solutions can be to bend the shield gently

Or, source a nice bit of marine ply, make an adaptor sheet (must be at least 15mm thick) can use MDF but it goes soft if it gets damp. Secure adaptor to original location and screw new sub in place. You will need to be aware of the impedance of the stock sub so as to match it to the amplifier. This is often stamped or printed on the sub basket, if not a multi meter set to resistance will give you an idea. Readings around 2.8-3.6 Ohm mean a 4 ohm sub, lower than that is either a 2 ohm or 1 ohm or short circuit! Readings int eh 6 ohm region mean an 8 ohm sub. Reason - resistance and impedance are quite different beasts, but are related. You will also need to make a note of the polarity of the sub - which wire is +ve, or you'll cancel bass out with phase inversion. HTH

So, a new problem. I managed to source a used GS master key on fleabay, in the attempt to save me moolah on the "genuine" new dealer one. I have managed to get it to code the remote to the car, but I am buggered if I can get the car into programming mode for the transponder. I have a few questions, and yes I've searched. The press and release the pedal instruction - to the floor, a light tap, how long between presses i.e pump the pedal or press release, move foot away press release....? Gas pedal (Accelerator for us brits) to the floor or hit the kickdown switch? The key i'm using as master is my black 3 button, it allows me to start the car so must have a TX chip in it as the security light goes out. I just seem unable to get the light to stay off when i remove the working master (step 4)....ideas?

Just on the off chance i'd be giving the door seals a clean, likely to be unrelated regarding the door frame damp, but i like my seals spotless (had leaky cars before, it's no fun!) Happy to help, yeah what a car ;)

Hang on is this inside the car or outside?!

You can always get a friend to sit in the car (or do the fun bit) and have the car hosed down. This after a little while will show up any exterior leaks. If none show then it isn't blocked drains or leaky seals. Is it definately water, no colour or odour to it?

I think it being nothing to worry about is a bit misleading. Are the cars meant to or designed to pool water? no sorry, wasn't part of the design brief! usual culprits (on other models and makes) from experience are gutter drains, sun/moon roof drains blocked - water finds next path of least resistance. Aircon/heating system leak Door seals, Window left open during rain (it happens) hole in the floorpan. Have a poke about and see if you can locate where it is coming from, then someone with less generalised knowledge should be along to help further ;)

For reference I have the CD version of the NAV system, and the "latest" update. Which is 1999 by the looks of it! Hmmm, now if I can find a double din NAV HU that will allow me to add in the trip info i'd be overjoyed!.....looks doubtful though.

Good find! my screen image doesn't quite look like any of those though....weird Closest image I have found (will have to take a pic) is like this but obviously the MkII headunit, mine has red "Caution" letters and a slightly different appearance.

Yeah, but how much does she spend on actual cosmetics.....you get my point ;)

Ok, would I be right in thinking that the drivers speaker is connected tot he outputs of two amplifiers (the main one behind the glovebox, and the one from the NAV unit in the boot) or, the more likely (stops backfeeding outputs with outputs) the nav unit has a dedicated input channel to the main amp, which allows for a "duck" of the main signal source CD/Radio etc on the driver's speaker for the voice to mix in at a suitable level. I really need to find some comprehensive pinouts for this, and a load of time not mythered by her indoors or the kids!