marvs

Yeah, I was surprised.I think the previous owner lived near the coast, and I don't think he looked after it. My mechanic said it looked like it had been parked in the sea!!

Major emissions failure (mainly I suspect due to an exhaust leak), all brake hoses needed replacing, all brakes needed something doing (disks and/or pads), at least one tyre. I'm sure that there was more but I can't remember the details. The nail in the coffin was the advisory list though, which was two pages long and included pretty serious corrosion to the whole rear underside, and bushes all around that will need replacing soon. So when I was offered almost £300 to have it picked up, I felt like I had to take it. I had also been having issues with power loss and rough idling, which I'd been planning on attending to myself when I got the chance, but with everything else going wrong when it did, and my current circumstances, I didn't feel like I could justify spending the time and money on them.

This probably won't help an awful lot, but I'm sure I've seen this question raised before. Maybe not on this forum, but on one of them. Have you tried googling?

£297. The next highest quote was £195. The majority were between £100-£130. Scrap value round our way is about £85 per ton. Considering I paid £585 14 months previous, I was quite happy.

So a week or so ago I sadly had to say goodbye to my '93 LS400, due to a bad MOT failure that would've been uneconomical to fix :( Here she is being taken away by CoPart, who collected on behalf of SellTheCar.com: Incidentally, SellTheCar.com offered me more than double what any conventional scrappies would, and about £100 more than any of the other online car purchasers. There were no hidden 'admin' charges, and pick up went very smoothly. (I'm not affiliated with them in any way, just want to recommend a good service when I receive it!)

Correct. I paid the excess to the windscreen company, and they handled the rest.

If you took it to Autoglass (or a smaller company, as I did) and explain that the 'road rash' on the screen is becoming dangerous, then there's every chance they'll replace it on safety grounds. That's what happened to me. Just go and have a chat with the glass company. After all, it's in their interests to fit you a new screen, so they probably won't refuse!

I've read that some people just pull/cut out the old filter part, and replace it with a generic cut to shape domestic air con filter. So I was hoping that if at least have the old filter frame, but no such luck! If anyone has an old manky filter or frame, please let me know, as I'd be interested in buying it...

It's very easy to get to. Hopefully the attached pic will be all you need. Bear in mind though that there might not be a filter present. I checked my '93 to find nothing there! Looks like someone's just taken out the old filter and not replaced it. I then asked a guy breaking a 93 LS on ebay to check his, and it was also filter-less...

I had a similar issue on my '93 - two or three minor chips, plus bad scratches/road rash on the screen. I just took it to a local windscreen company who I've dealt with before (possibly National Windscreens, I'm not sure), and explained the problem, and that I'd like a new screen, and he was happy to do it under the insurance. At the end of the day, I guess the insurance company just has to rely on the judgement of the windscreen fitter that the problem is bad enough to warrant a new screen. The guy I saw seemed to think that road rash was enough of a safety issue on its own to justify a new windscreen, and I was happy to pay the £75 excess!

As far as my (limited) understanding of switches goes, the double pole aspect of the switch means two inputs/channels (so left and right in this case), and the single throw means just open/closed circuit, as opposed to double throw which can be open circuit with up to two different closed circuit connections, so you could have open/signal routed to location A/signal routed to location B... Does that make sense? And do you agree? By my understanding above, I think a double pole, single throw switch would maintain two channels. Wiki

I've also used ATS for a recharge. I was a bit hesitant to use a chain garage rather than an air con specialist, but they seemed a lot more knowledgeable than others that I've dealt with (e.g. kwik fit!), and had good customer service.

Thanks for the info. Next time I get a chance to get the radio out I'll have a look for FML and FMR. I guess the best place to solder to either side of the cut will be an existing solder point on the board, rather than trying to solder on the PCB track? I'm wondering whether a DPST switch would be sufficient? If I'm only using it to make/break the FM signal line to give me 'radio silence' then I'm guessing single throw is fine... Then a separate cable will be connected to the test/aux in line I've (hopefully) found. For info, this test input has three pins, which apparently fit a 'servo cable' like these: link. I could then attach the other end to a 3.5mm plug/socket. Having said that, if I find the FML & FMR, then in a way I might as well just do your solution as written in the first post, and switch my aux into the FML & FMR lines using the switchable 3.5mm jack like you used, that way it's quite neat in that when the aux is plugged in, it's active, and when it's unplugged it's FM. However having a toggle switch with the separate aux in gives me more flexibility to run a longer aux cable, and potentially have my phone/ipod plugged in even when listening to the radio, then just switched as desired. Decisions...! Thanks for the offer of help, too. I'll see how I get on when I next have the head unit out.

Hi mate, I'm very interested to see a step-by-step for this. On my Pioneer head unit, and some others, there's a test input on the PCB that plays audio when any source is selected, so if you can generate 'silence' from any source then the input on these pins will be heard over the speakers. So I was going to do a basic version of the mod here, but unfortunately I can't because my tape deck never stays in 'Tape' mode (always reverts back to radio), and I don't have a CD changer in my car, so I can't get a silent source. Therefore your mod seems perfect for me! In advance of you posting up instructions, can you explain a bit more about where it was that you cut the PCB tracks? I have a '93 car, but hopefully I'll be able to figure it out! Thanks

Yes, the subwoofer cover is prised off from inside the car. There are two clips on each side. Then the speaker can be unscrewed with a 10mm (I think) socket. I think my sub may be faulty too. Any ideas where you're going to source a new one from?