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csr083

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  • First Name
    Anton
  • Lexus Model
    RS200
  • Year of Lexus
    1999
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands

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  1. Old topic but i got mine fixed. Mine was a vac leak. Check your vacuum it should be someithing like 18-20 inHg, if its less than 16 it will run rough. The problem was that i had a leak in the brake servo, however if this engine idles rough, it shakes the manifold off the cylinder head, developing another vac leak. So i isolated the brake servo and it still ran bad, and i ruled it out thinking its not there. Then i would reseal the intake and car would run fine, but after a while the brake servo leak will make engine shake the mani off again and problem repeats. I would advise before swapping expensive 3sge parts do the following: 1. Get a vacuum gauge - they are cheap and super useful and hook it up to full intake vacuum. Beams idles somewhere between 600-700 rpm, so at this engine speed your vacuum should be 17-20. Note misfires will also affect vacuum. 2. Do a compression test. These engines are super awesome and compression on hot engine is spot on across the bar (dont remember exact number but do remember being impressed how even it is) 3. Are you getting good fuel pressure? Check fuel filter clogged/fuel tank sock dirty. Does your fuel pump whine more than usual? I remember reading somewhere that these engines run 60-75 psi, but from own experience can only tell that lower than 45 psi it runs like a dog. 4. Read spark plugs. Do they look lean/rich? Sorry for teaching you to suck eggs, but spark plug readings are only valid for last engine cycle. So idle your engine hot for 10 mins and then check them. Super lean plugs usually indicate no fuel pressure or vacuum leak. 5. Also, ignition coils are not particulary strong part of the engine, but before swapping them test if they are good (there is a guide somewhere on the internet which shows how much resistance you should get across terminals). 6. make sure your engine grounds are not corroded and battery terminals are nice and clean. 7.also check how much voltage does the alternator give out. Should be in 13-14. sorry for long winded answer hope this helps.
  2. I've also replaced broken TB tstat with a new one and hooked it up. no effect.
  3. quick update. as promised, here is the intake setup. Its some piece of ally with some noname airfilter attached to it. It works fine and idle voltage sees hardly any fluctuation. (the second bolt is not actually missing, its just not screwed in on this pic) i also disassembled the whole intake (again!) and found that this bit was leaking a little bit of air: with that thing being replaced and everything assembled, idle is a little bit better now, but still not really toyota smooth. It idles Okay with injector lag time being shifted (basically, injectors stay opened for longer period of time). Also, does this timing looks okay? (white mark is at 0 = TDC)
  4. Also, exhaust gas probing revealed the following: standard ECU connected, probe shows that mixture is super lean. Once Power FC connected, results are pretty much the same. However, when injector delay is changed to +0.5ms, mixture gets to nearly stoichometric.
  5. Thanks for replies, ColinBarber: its hard to say, we rolled the car out in January, so it was cold and not noticeable. Forgot to mention that it gets better in cold. Just to be clear -its the outside temp sensor that is disconnected, not the intake one. Runs on standard manifold. Oil pressure is disconnected since it leads to the dashboard, not ECU (AFAIK, correct me if im wrong) E910: I never realized it had a t-stat in the TB. i got mine with plastic end that broke off, so we just removed TB heating line (by connecting steam line feed to steam line return). Can this be the cause of it? It idles bad at 800 rpm, but once outside temp goes up (to like +25C), revs drop to 600 and it vibrates really violently - even bonnet shakes. The only temporary fix is Power FC. Can you please explain me how TB heater t-stat thingy affects idle? Ill take pic of the intake during the weekend. Many thanks.
  6. Hi, there First post here. Let me introduce myself - my name is Anton. I've installed 3sge into the e30 BMW, and everything is awesome - it pulls, revs, and on top of that gives about 35-40 uk mpg. The engine is a blacktop 3sge (yellow label says G1), coupled to J160 box. Harness connectors are standard for A and B, and custom made for D and E. O2 sensor wire is shielded. Outside temp sensor and oil pressure sensor are disconnected. The problem is the following: very rough idle. Rough as engine vibrates like mad. It gets better when its revving, motorway cruise is also good - pulls strong and gives good fuel consumption. The following things have been checked: 1. Air All the vacuum lines have been checked (including brake servo), every single doubtful joint resealed and then put together. Vacuum gauge shows no evidence of severe vacuum leaks (that may cause such a horrible vibration). Engine also uses shed made intake system (cannot fit altezza box in the engine bay). Thought that silly cone filter may cause this, removed filter - no result. AFM has been replaced with a brand new one - no effect. shows very steady 1.2V (checked with a scope) with fluctuations of 0.005V. Toyota manuals specify 1-1.5V AFAIK. Drive by wire throttle body has been replaced with a second hand unit - no effect 2. Spark I had leaking head cover gasket and initially thought that this might be it - a dead coil causing misfire and vibration, but no - replaced gasket and coil packs with second hand units (revised thinner COPs) - no effect. Spark plugs have been replaced - no effect. IGT and ION signals are verified. 3. Compression 14 bar at closed throttle cranking - super even and steady 4. Fuel Fuel pressure is at 60psi all the time. Increasing FP gives no effect. decreasing makes things worse. Injectors are cleaned and verified not to be sticking. Scope shows almost ideal injector voltage pattern (well "ideal" according to tech guys and ScannerDanner from youtube ;)). 5. Timing This was the last thing i thought about. I got a second hand Power FC controller and hooked it up. I "initialized" it before start, and previous owner kindly shared based map unit came with. I verified that "init" map and provided map are identical and fired up the engine. Exactly same symptoms. I then played with injector timing - and oh god, changing injector firing delay to +0.5ms smoothens out engine by a great deal. It still idles like a dead Lada, but nothing as horrible as before. That got me thinking that timing was off. Cam pulleys were aligned properly (to my understanding) - when crank is at 0 mark, cam notches must align with extrusions on timing case - they did. I pulled the valve cover to see if cams align to their internal marks - they did. Can somebody point me in the right direction, since money's running out and im tired of replacing parts? Thanks, Anton
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