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About mike5im5

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  1. Hi, yes I can enter directions when on the move now. I can only use speed dial numbers on the phone however, and not enter manually (not a problem as I can dial from the phone). Also just to confirm, it still doesn't allow full postcode search just 4 characters. Like I said though, these were genuine disks not copied ones. you have to make sure of that. From what I understand, copied disks may have updated maps but old firmware. Mike
  2. It was a genuine disk so not cheap. The seller was oneshopnavi.
  3. Hello everyone. I've recently bought an old (2006) RX400h and thought I'd share my first impressions (and a few solutions). Things I love: Very easy to drive and park - My wife doesn't feel she's driving a bigger car which was one of the selling points for us. Our family is getting bigger and we needed something more practical Efficiency - We live on the outskirts of London and most of our journeys are short (distance wise) stop start journeys. Over the first 10 days I've averaged 31mpg, with lots of short journeys, a quick blast on the motorway and hauling paving blocks from the garden centre. I think that's great for a car of this size and weight. I'm using shell V-Power btw. Not sure on people opinions on fuel types (I'm sure there's a topic on it somewhere) Gearbox/hybrid combo - I wasn't sure what I was going to make of the CVT. On the one hand I've always liked manual cars and finding the best/optimum gear to give me the torque. However, for a hybrid of this nature.. I think the smoothness of the CVT really suit it. It makes absolute sense to me For a 10 year old car it still looks relatively modern Things that annoyed me/us: The tailgate didn't stay up and the auto tailgate didn't work either. I ordered and changed the gas struts and this sorted this out. I've written the guide here: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/tutorials/article/245-replacing-tailgate-gas-struts-lexus-rx300350400h/ Sat Nav is old. OK I never expected a 10 year old car to have upto date in car technology but the lack of full postcode and being able to operate it moving was really bad. I purchased a new (2016) updated disc from eBay which works perfectly. however the routing is still not a patch on googlemaps No AUX port - I was really surprised by this! I find it shocking that something that should be standard on all cars was missing from this premium SUV. I've rectified it with an iphone/AUX kit. I wrote a guide here: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/tutorials/article/244-iphone-lightning-ipod-and-aux-connector-for-rx400h/ iPhone integration - Although I can connect the iphone for voice calls via bluetooth. I couldn't sync the contacts. I found a way around this however. I exported my icloud contacts to a file and uploaded the to my google contacts list. I was then able to pair my android tablet and upload my entire address book. However, I had to remove all spaces from all my phone numbers for them to import correctly which was annoying. The other annoyance is having to manually switch paired phones.. when my wife and I use the car. Reverse Camera - I've actually got used to this but my wife didn't really like it. So I retro fitted some reverse sensors at the cost of £12!!! It was well worth it and I've written a guide here: http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/tutorials/article/246-installing-reverse-sensors-rx400h/ However even despite the small annoyances (many of which have been rectified), I think it's a great vehicle. The feeling of pulling away silently yet still being able to put your foot down to boot it is great.
  4. Parts: • Witson® LED Display Car Vehicle Parking Reverse Backup Radar System with 4 Parking Sensors (£11.99 from Amazon) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Witson®-Display-Vehicle-Parking-Reverse/dp/B017GZREAU/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1470234323&sr=1-4&keywords=parking+sensors • Cable ties • Paper templates (attached) Tools: • Small Flat head Screwdriver • 10mm/12mm spanners/ratchet • Drill • 22mm wood drill bit and drill bit supplied with above purchase • wire cutters • soldering iron • largish round/semi circle woodworking file • masking tape or frog tape Time: 1.5 – 3 hours Steps: • Remove all the contents of your boot • Remove the rear hidden box. There should just be a couple of retaining clips that can be popped out with a think flat head screw driver then just pull (also remove the two clips for the rear lip cover as this’ll be coming out also) • Remove the plastic lip cover, can be done with fingers and pulling • Remove the left hand side flip up lid, unscrewing the nuts on the front, then leaning the lid back to reach the nuts underneath • Next remove the left hand side hidden box, by unscrewing the nut at the bottom by hand and removing the retaining clip. This should pull out easily by hand • The wiring harness along the left is where we tap into the reverse light feed. Also remove the rubber grommet in the floor and save for later. • Pull out the wires and locate the reverse light 12v supply wire. On the rx400h it was grey, I believe on rx300/350s this might be red. However if you’re unsure use a multimeter to test. • Strip a section of the wire and solder on the red (positive) wire for supplying power to your control box. Insulate with electrical tape • Ground the black wire (earth) for the control box power. I connected it to a bolt on the rear of the boot where there were other earthed wires. • At this point, I tested the reverse sensor was getting power when the vehicle was put in reverse by plugging in all the components • Next, to fit the sensors. I think most people would remove the bumpers to attach these. However, I was able to fit them with the bumpers in place. That said I have small fingers and wrists.. and was only just able to. Other might find it easier to remove the bumper at this stage. • I found these templates and attached them using frog tape. • Now using the supplied drill bit, carefully drill the holes in your bumper • Behind the plastic is foam padding/strengthening. I used the 20mm wood drill bit to drill though this and created a hole big enough to get my finger in from the inside • Use the round file to smooth off the lip around the hole. • The sensors supplied with my kit needed a small flat screwdriver inserting to push 4 tabs in to release the back of the sensor. This allowed the rubber tabs to move back a little. The idea is you push the sensor into the drilled hole, then push the back on and it secures the sensor. This was by far the fiddliest bit of the install. However, I think it might possibly have been easier to forget about using the rubber clips and just glued the sensors in place. Those without patience might prefer to do this! • Once all sensors are inserted and secured. Thread the wires along the inside of the bumper, securing with zip ties where possibly. • Locate the underside of the hole where you removed the rubber grommet and feed the wires through. I managed this without removing any trim from the other side. I just used some garden wired and treaded it through from the top.. then tied this around the sensor cables and pulled it through. • Once all the cables are back in the boot. Drill/cut a small hole in the rubber grommet and thread them through this. Pop the grommet back in the hole and I used some insulation tape to create a seal. • Now finally choose a location for your beeper/display. I put mine next to the centre cup holders as I didn’t want them too visible on the dash. However, it would work well on the dash or even on the rear view mirror. If you prefer you could even mount near the rear screen as you may be looking back that way anyways (this would be easiest place to run the wires to as well!). • Once fixed. Find the best route and run your wires under carpets and trim into the boot. My route left me only just enough length on the wire so it was cutting it pretty close! • For information, I went back into the centre console, under the carpet in passenger foot well, underneath the front and rear kick plates, and up underneath the hidden compartments. It was actually easier than I thought and didn’t take too long. I had to use the garden wire trick in one or 2 places. • Now plug the screen and 4 sensors into the control box. The shortest sensor cable should be position D, then C, then B and then A (if you’ve gone the same route as me). • Attach to the side wall of the boot where you feel there is room and finally attach the power. • Now replace the left cubby box, the flip up cover, the rear plastic lip cover, the rear box and any other trim you might have removed. • Test the sensors by parking near some vehicles or wall. I found the reverse camera red line gave me about a foot and half distance from the object, the reverse sensor flat line beep, just under a foot. • For £12 I think this is a super cheap mod and very useful to have the extra distance reading and bleeper. You get what you pay for however and the bleeper does sound cheap. Luckily there is a switch to turn in off from the screen incase the baby is sleeping. I might open it up and install a small Potentiometers in front of the speaker to give it a volume control at some point. However, to be honest, I don’t find it that annoying yet. RX300:350:400 Reverse Sensor Templates Left.pdf RX300:350:400 Reverse Sensor Templates Right.pdf
  5. Parts: • 2 X Tailgate gas struts from SGS Engineering (2 X £44.10 inc next day delivery) http://www.sgs-engineering.com/car-boot-tailgate/lexus/rx/gsc2619-lexus-rx400-tailgate-strut Tools: • 12mm spanner/ratchet/torque wrench • Dremel • Needle nose pliers Time: ~30 minutes Steps: First off the replacement gas struts don’t come with the ball joint bracket for attaching to the car/tail gate. So you will have to reuse your old ones. This is probably a two man job as you will need someone holding the tailgate open while you work. I did it by myself using a 6ft step ladder held firmly in place with supports. Do this at your own peril though! I turned off the auto tailgate motors from the little button in the glove box. With the tailgate open, remove the original gas struts from the car first, then the tailgate by removing the nuts. The next challenge here is the old struts are kept very firmly on the old ball joint with an o-ring and there doesn’t seem to be any obvious way to remove. I had to grind enough of the outer ball joint away until I could see the o-ring.. then prise this out with some needle nose pliers. It got easier as I did the other joints and I got more efficient with how much I had to remove. Once you’ve freed all 4 ball joints. Re-attach them to the car and tail gate. Tighten to 8Nm if you have a torque wrench. You can use some locktight on these if you’re worried about them coming loose. Remove the retaining pins from the new struts and pop them in to place starting with the tailgate end first. Re-insert the retaining pins when done. I put a small bit of grease inside each one. Try opening and closing the tailgate a few times to ensure everything works and it’s well supported. Then turn the auto tailgate back on again from the glovebox.
  6. Parts: • Lightning and Aux Connector for Lexus RX300, 350 & 400h (£49.99 from Amazon) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lightning-APPS2CAR-Integrated-Interface-Highlander/dp/B01AJMU6R0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1470239047&sr=1-1&keywords=rx400+iphone+lightning • Toyota 6+6 pin Y splitter cable (between £10 and £20 on eBay) – OPTIONAL Tools: • 10mm socket wrench screwdriver • soldering iron (optional) Time: ~10-20 minutes Steps: • Put on your parking brake (don’t have your keys in the ignition), using the shift lock put the vehicle into Driver or B • Remove the gear surround, by just pulling with your fingers • Remove the 12v supply panel above and pull away. Either detach the connections or just leave hanging in the driver foot well • Using the 10mm socket, remove the following 4 bolts. The top too are quite well hidden, so you’ll need either an extension for your ratchet or a screw driver fitting. Luckily the bolts aren’t that stiff. Keep one hand underneath in case the bolts drop as you don’t want them dropping behind the centre console • Now just pull the stereo away from the rest of the console. • You will find three connections on the rear. The one you want, is the 6+6 pin connection to the left of the three (looking from behind). You’ll notice that there is already a connector in there.. that is needed as it powers the radio. • You can either use the standard type 1 6+6 Y splitter cable found on eBay. Or if you want to save £15. Then it’s very easy just to remove the wires from the existing loom and splice to the cable from your iphone adapter kit. It’s only two wires afterall. • Here’s the orginal CD changer loom, yellow (1) and brown (2): • Here’s the new connector for the iphone kit, purple (3) and yellow (4): • You’d just need to attach the yellow (1) wire from your CD unit to the purple (3) cable on the adapter and the brown (2) wire from your CD unit to the yellow (4) wire on the adapter. • Depending on the choise you made above, plug the 6+6 pin splitter in the back of the unit (the apapter and orginal CD connector go into the splitter), or the spliced 6+6 pin direct from the adapter. • Now return the head unit back into the dash. I ran the adapter cable behind the bracket behind to create space. • Plug the lighting cable and aux cable into the adapter. • Thread the two cables down the left inside of the centre console (I used garden wire to thread through in reverse and pull the cables through) and out into the foot well just behind the glove box (this might be different depending where you mount your phone) • Reattach the 4 bolts. I put a small ball of bluetac inside my socket so that the nuts are held in place, as you don’t want them dropping off as you line them back up. • Re-Attach the 12v supply panel and gear selector surround. • Put your vehicle back into Park • Then turn on the ignition to test the interface. • To switch to iphone/Aux adapter. Just press the CD button twice. • Optionally I’ve mounted my iphone with one of these little magnetic brackets next to the centre console. It’s a great position and the magnetic disc is great. I didn’t stick it to the phone or case. I just have it in between and it still gets held firmly. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mpow-Rotatable-Magnetic-Samsung-Smartphones/dp/B019DCFE6K/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1470240725&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=mpow+360+car+mount
  7. I can now confirm the eBay 6+6 pin Y cable suited my needs. However, it was a bit overkill as only two wires on the orginal loom was required. So a splice and solder job would have done the trick. Will post a guide shortly. The iphone/AUX adapter works great by the way!
  8. Hi Guys, I just traded my IS250 for a 2005 RX400h SE with Sat Nav. Since the RX hasn't got an AUX port I bought one of these from Amazon. Looked good and good price and will charge my iphone too. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lightning-APPS2CAR-Integrated-Interface-Highlander/dp/B01AJMU6R0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469807351&sr=8-3&keywords=rx400h+iphone Taking the Radio out was straightforward. However once out, I assumed the CD changer port was the 6+6 connection situation in the middle (to the right of the bigger cables). If I remove the existing cable and plug the new adapter in that socket. The radio has no power and the Sat Nav doesn't appear to work either. On close inspection of the product pictures above (the last pic), it would appear I need a Y splitter which isn't supplied or even sold by that vendor. Before I purchase a 6+6 splitter from else where, can anyone confirm that this 6+6 connector is the correct one for the CD changer? Or is it actually one of the other ports. I'm assuming this could be specific to model/year so anyone with the same vehicle that has done a similar mod would be appreciated. Thanks All!
  9. Thanks for the quick reply! Yes it's an auto with FLSH. So that's good news. It's the SE, without the navigation pack unfortunately. However I find the iphone navigation options as good as most OEM units these days. No need to update maps either. There's also a parrot car kit for the iphone, so just looking at a way to put music through the OEM stereo. Assume there's a AUX port? My other reservation with the IS was the lack of folding rear seats. Seems very strange they decided not to have this on a saloon.
  10. Hi all, Having sold my beloved S2000 for sensible reasons (expanding family), I've just put a deposit down on a 2006 IS250 SE with reasonably high miles (91k). Reason for choosing the Lexus was the reliability reputation compared to other cars I could afford. I see there are a lot of owners on here with engine problems (mainly IS220 owners). Are the issues with the early cars (circa 2006) only to do with the diesel enginer or should I have some concerns with my is250 petrol? Any recommendations/checks I should have carried out straight away? I'm a believer that money is well spend on keeping a car in tip top condition so have no qualms with regular services with a main dealer. We've got a nipper on the way in the coming months so having a dependable motor is my main aim here. Anyway, thanks in advance for any advice. Happy to have joined your community! Mike
  11. Hi all, I've just out the deposit down for an early is250. Like many people I made the plunge given the reliability reputation of Lexus. However a quick skim read of these forums suggest there could be engine problems with the early is250s. Should I be at all worried. It has 91k on the clock. Anything I should be checking for piece of mind? We've got a baby on the way so anything I can do to avoid unexpected problems/costs would be great. It was a private sale by the way so no warranty. Mike