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runsgrateasanut last won the day on August 28 2015

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About runsgrateasanut

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  1. Check out this George Clooney (Eric the Car guy ) video as it may offer an answer?
  2. Silly thought - arn't we suppose to start the Car with our foot on the brake pedal? Can't offer any thoughts as don't have trac
  3. Thsi looks an interesting opportunity for someone who wants an early vehicle and has the know how to sort the problem which could be ECU related. Peanuts price for a nice looking car.
  4. A good reason to have the earlier non-interference engine - if you are a Gambler
  5. I thought that might raise an eyebrow! Yours is a 1994 Steve and possibly does not look like this? ps Alexander, I don't think any later Cars originally had 17 inch wheels but someone will correct me if I'm wrong on this. A firmer ride with low profile tyres, surely?
  6. The Clear indicators came as a purchase s/hand on the bay USA. Most people prefer to have clears with yellow bulbs. I'm still thinking about a conversion to them to strip LED's
  7. Ps not sure its seen in that photo but having put on new rear Springs (not OEM) the ride height at the back is a couple of inches higher. Has a certain dragster look about it. No change to the comfort of the ride. Changing the springs is a bind as the rear axles have to be shifted out of the way. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
  8. Then yours is definataly two tone. Should just be a shade change nothing too obvious. The paint people I mentioned should give you the colour and the price is not unreasonable if you are supplying the paint to the shop. The wheels on the earlier LS400 were 15 inch, our model are 16 inches. I didn't want to muck around with gearing ratios and other things that wheel size changes, involves. Bought those s/hand on ebay from Poland for £180 without tyres. Maxxis all round on them.
  9. Check this out.
  10. I guess two tone means that you are putting the Car into a later bracket than 89-92 even if yours is on the cusp. Two tone was definately popular with Mercs of the period also. If you double click on my Avatar you can see a larger photo. The lower part is more gold than the upper beige. The Wheels btw are Lexus Wheels (which I love) and get a regular wash whereas the Car only gets one once a year, and came off a different model Lexus. An IS possibly?
  11. ps Someone else will tell you if a '93 should be two tone (like mine) and yours has already been paint shopped one colour.
  12. My car is two tone and 4k9 appears on the Reg plate in the engine bay. Sanstone beige However the lower code is not mentioned. I think I got it from a reputable supplier of paint and don't go on ebay as there are some dodgy paint dealers who will give you totally the wrong colour. My advice is phone Autopaint St Helens on 01744 818102 with your Car VIN code to hand and the guy will tell you if you need a different paint for the lower part. Possibly not.
  13. I hope "Rick" of another forum won't mind me reproducing something he wrote which I eventually trawled down too, on the subject. At your own risk you follow the advice here but with the sticky weather having arrived and hopefully staying it seems that the answer to the problem has been found, or perhaps confirmed. Quote: For those of you who would like to fix the sticking speedometer and Tach needles yourselves, at no cost, the solution is simple, but takes some careful disassembly of the gage cluster to remove the sticking gage. First, remove the cluster. ( Then disassemble the cluster ( by removing the 4 screws from the power supply board and folding it back, then the screws holding the main board to the frame. Remove the ribbon cables by carefully prying up evenly on the wedge lock, and the other connectors by lifting straight up. Once the gage is removed you can access the needle limit stop arm from the back side. The sticking is the result of lube getting on the limit stop arm and causing a slight vacuum (much like denture adhesive) when the needle disk contacts it. This vacuum has to be overcome before the needle will release from the limit stop. There is no need for any lubrication at this location, and it must be removed. Take a Q tip and remove most of the cotton from one end. It will fit nicely alongside the limit stop arm. Make sure the needle is pointing toward 50mph and not on the zero point. Insert the tip on the face side of the arm and once the tip reaches the end of the arm, rotate it gently to remove the lube. Then, even more gently, rotate the needle back toward the zero position until the limit stop on the disk contacts the Q tip and rotate the Q tip another turn while applying very gentle pressure on the back end of the needle arm. Rotate the needle away from the zero position and extract the Q tip and the sticking will be gone. Reassemble and grin widely, knowing that you saved yourself a couple hundred bucks. -Rick Unquote. Thanks again Rick. May give this a try sometime as both seems to stick most days now for a brief period