Vintagesixtysix

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About Vintagesixtysix

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Phil
  • Lexus Model
    IS250
  • Year of Lexus
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands

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  1. I guess the only other area that can rack up a few quid are brakes ( calipers ). It’s a bit of a weak spot with this model...& when I say that you have to take in to account the overall strengths and reliability of an IS. “Even champion racehorses sweat”... as my old dad used to say 😁.... I think I knew what he meant. I don’t know if there is any reference in the paper work to any work or replacements... just a thought. Good luck phil
  2. Just to join in..... I have exactly the same issue. Only seems to interfere with certain stations. Plus on a frosty morning I have just one “bar” that does not defrost. It appeared middle of last year not long after I had a dash cam wired in. ive been meaning to look which fuse they piggy backed and see if there could be any relationship. Agree with others got to be worth a nudge to Lexus just to see what they say.
  3. Would you mind sharing how much the clutch/flywheel change cost..... I’m assuming from your original post you had lexus do it?
  4. I’ve gone for a set of Pirelli All Season Plus this time (on 16” wheels)...... will be interested to see how they perform and wear. Have seen them as low as £50-55 inc vat a tyre, + free delivery on inter- web...... which I think is a pretty decent price...... £ advantage of having 16”s 👍. I do always feel I’ve gone a little deaf for the first few days as the road noise disappears compared to summer tyres. Ive also had Pirelli Sottozero 3 run flats on my BMW f11 and they were pretty good good also.
  5. Well that’s progress it’s fired up....and from what you have said it’s was running ok until you switched it off..... so not a stall. From your comment & video post I’m assuming you believe doing this hard rest / capacitor drain / has allowed it to start. Electrical not mechanical. If it’s done it once....I guess it suggests it will do it again & you desperately need that code reader for next steps. Unless anyone else can chip in with an idea???????
  6. Is there anything ignition related in Type B fuse box? apologies....I’m at work & haven’t got hand book in front of me.
  7. If you have a light on the start button, fingers crossed you will be able to pull a stored code.
  8. Have you tried disconnecting the car battery for 10 mins see if you get a reset. have you got a Code reader?
  9. Isildur hows it going?......you winning? if you found a fix let us know phil
  10. To make sure we are in the same place. You can open the car keyless. The start button is illuminated. Without pressing the clutch down, you press the starter button once you get a red light & no dash illumination, press it a second time you get illumination and dial sweep. if you press the clutch in at this point you do not get a green light on the starter button. And it won't start.... or try to turnover......just dead. You are 100% about the fobs, the fob batteries and you have the correct car battery with the correct crank value. Up to this point you have been using the car regularly and it's been behaving normally.
  11. Agreed....try fob + another fob battery. Have a look at the micro switch under the clutch pedal?....operating......tension in the switch etc. Big ask...but another car battery. i had an issue with very lazy central locking.....changed fob batteries.....had perfect charging & cold strat readings from my old ( original battery )..... had the electrics all checked out..... eventually changed the car battery and has been fine ever since. If you have all the right lights appearing and clutch pedal switch is is ok..... I would still bet on battery rather than an immobiliser issue etc.
  12. So is “ pressing break pedal very very hard “ a typo? Sorry edit .... brake...as in not clutch