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Vintagesixtysix

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About Vintagesixtysix

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  • First Name
    Phil
  • Lexus Model
    IS250
  • Year of Lexus
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands

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  1. Thanks Lucas….. that clearly explains that. I think I saw the GT86 diff discussion on a US site as I was looking for info…… and I believe interestingly the 350 & 400 series diffs being compatible in terms of fit ( push fit rather than the previous bolt on) My car is the very basic spec ( & I mean basic )…… so was the LSD an optional extra I wonder rather than standard?? or are they all LSD?? I’ve also seen this label from an IS220……. Any clues on ratio?
  2. Thank you both….. I did start to have a look at some of these types of products, as you say Paul not much to loose. My Indy managed to squeeze her in yesterday and get it up on the ramp and also spin the wheels under drive. it’s a bit worse than I thought and he’s advised me to do as little as possible if I can’t take it off the road immediately. I asked about using anything of the magic potions and he thought I’d be wasting my time and money……. We had a joke about sawdust too! 😆 Hes a decent lad and probably being over cautious….. but his rule of thumb is if its a whine try the greases etc…… rumblings is the bearings squaring off so recon or replace it ASAP. Ive been offered a used diff that seems in good condition from a is250 2008 auto with this label. They cannot see any other stamping on it. Anyone know if it would be compatible? Thanks phil
  3. IS 250 / nov 2005 / MTM Ladies & Gents….. my differential story…. If you can get to the end…. a little help needed. So I started to get a rumbling noise a couple of weeks ago. It’s a constant noise from set off that seems to peak in the cabin at around 40mph. The car is running fine, no engine issues, gear changes all fine, economy all normal. No dash lights. I can rev it hard at stationary doesn’t miss a beat. If you drive with all the windows open, air con off there no exterior sound….. or when I got the wife to do a couple of passes past me in the local supermarket car park. The rumble did not disappear if I put the clutch in and continues if I take it out of gear and coast along. The rumble is a mechanical grumble/whirring if that makes sense….it’s not a rapid bump bump bump noise…..and not a high pitched whine. I would have put my mortgage on that it was coming from the front end of the car…… so I stripped both front wheels, callipers, pads, discs, disc shields and replaced both hubs ( I was convinced it was the NS front hub ) and thought might as well do both while I was at it. Went for a test drive…. Noise exactly the same!…… red face 🥴 I checked the exhaust to see if anything could be making a contact and everything looks ok…..including the heat shields. I’ve had the wheels refurbed about six months ago so I know they are all straight and balanced, I have no sign of any adverse wear on the tyres. No steering wheel shake either, even at legal plus. I checked both rear wheels and didn’t seem to have any play, drive shafts, joints and boots all seem to be in good order. Couldn’t feel anything strange on the prop-shaft ( was thinking may be central carrier bearing??…. ) but it is hard to tell this diy styli on the drive. While under the car I touched the rear diff case and thought it felt quite hot ( don’t honestly know what kind of temp it should be….warm I guess like a gearbox??) but it felt hot to touch. First thought was low on fluid. I cracked the fill plug and managed to get maybe a 100ml tops into it. The drain plug was dry no sign of any weeping. I last had this changed at 60k ( now at 130k ) and was originally planning on doing it again around 120k with the plugs…. but like when I changed the plugs at 60k ( they still looked perfect ) the diff fluid was also still in great condition. So I had put off both until the end of the year. I’ve resisted dropping the diff fluid and having a look at what’s attached to the magnet mainly due to being a bit in denial at the time….. as this seems to be a reasonably rare occurrence. Just for the record…. I’m not the burnout or doughnut drift king LOL…… far from it. Finally had the back end up both sides, while a mate was turning the rear wheels you can hear the noise clearly from the differential. It’s toast…. Q) regarding a replacement ( used ) would any one fit from a 250 / 220d….ATM or MTM are they all the same ratio? The part number I’m working to is : 41110-53191 09 2005. Carrier Assy Differential Rear GSE 20 MTM FGR= 43:12=3.583
  4. There is nothing in my manual is250/is220d around roof mounted bars that I can see. I did find this though…..which is not quite the answer to your question but gives an idea. It’s a long time since I’ve done any kayaking…… a single weighs maybe 20kg ish ???? Hope helps… (2014) Thule AeroBlade load bars are strong, quiet and aerodynamic providing maximum capacity, no whistling or howling and low wind drag. The aluminum BoxBeam construction has a dedicated slot for foot attachment and a separate t-slot track for mounting certain carriers. The weight capacity for this Lexus IS 250 base roof rack is 130 pounds evenly distributed. The load bar length is 47 inches plus 1-3/4 inches for both end caps (total 48 -3/4 inches). Distance from the front load bar to the rear is fixed at 24.5 inches, center to center.
  5. Robin Ive definitely seen an IS towing a caravan…… in fact I was behind it on the M5 for about two hours crawling down to the southwest a few years ago….. cannot remember which model it was. Maybe flip your feedback search before changing…… enquire on the Caravan Club etc forums to see if any current owners are towing ( and what ) If you like the car…..it’s a shame to get rid for maybe a handful of towing days a year.
  6. Ambush are a division of Lodgeparts a very well known parts supplier / aftermarket etc. I also took advantage at that price.
  7. I know we always reach for the handbook on this one when there are any enquires…. but do we know why it’s not advised? I don’t know of anything in the gearing or frame design that’s significantly different…. Only that it’s certainly a heavy car in its class with a big lump up front…. But that just means it quite stable. just wondered?
  8. I believe the very early manuals are still a wee bit cheaper I pay £340 over 12 months…. Overall the best combo is ATM without a doubt…if you can find a good example in budget.
  9. I have a MTM 05 which I bought with 40,000 miles on the clock and I have now done 130,000 miles over the past seven years. I’ve only ever replaced one rear brake caliper in whole of that time and mileage…. Outside of normal service items. I think the deal breakers/ negotiations …. pending your budget and determination to get an IS at this kind of age and mileage (alongside of any normal prudent pre sale checks) a) Condition of exhaust front to back. b) Any sign flywheel judder (MTM only) The 250’s have a reputation and it’s fully justified in my book. Good luck
  10. It wouldn’t be the final story as John mentioned in his OP. I have not found a drawing….. but if the box position and the Y position fit…..you’re just looking at gaining 50mm in length which might be easier to get fab’d than gambling aftermarket. You get OEM quality and the sound should be similar. ( probably for not much more than aftermarket) I went mild steel ( not a C ) in first lockdown to keep me on the road….. much cheaper but the fit was (is) awful.
  11. Or go oem…. https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-is/lexus-is-phase-ii-2006-2013/lexus-is-2-engine-service-kits/lexus-is-phase-2-exhaust-back-box-2/
  12. If you need another voice..... LinusP is correct. The clutch issue is a tricky one to advise on..... I picked mine up (MT) quite reasonably because the previous owner had clutch judder, & knew how much it was to fix. Ive since done 80k without changing the clutch or DMF .... which are still the original by the way. If the clutch and fly wheel were to show no signs of wear on your selected car then maybe it’s already been changed or never suffered. Apart from that in 80k I’ve replaced one rear brake calliper plus service consumables. It might also be worth considering the point mentioned if you are commuting if stop start might wear a little thin on a car that’s not the most frugal either. Im having some paint refreshed and wheels powder coated this week as she continues to be a keeper. im nearly three times your age and don’t live in London.... so my insurance cost comparison is probably not worth the ink! 😉 hope helps.
  13. Castrol deal..... https://www.halfords.com/special-offers/sale/?prefn1=brandname&prefv1=Castrol&prefn2=type&prefv2=Engine Oils %26 Fluids&utm_source=Email&utm_medium=Email_one_time&utm_campaign=FY21_WK39_BAU1598_Active&utm_identifier=A575E2F3-A47B-4202-9FBB-D876A91C6761
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