Vintagesixtysix

This is such a shame and I think many people on here (including myself) would be in the same boat where our cars are worth more to us than a right off value. Is it structurally damaged? Or just the fact that market value is now so low vrs repair? What right off code is the insurance quoting? Would it be viable to buy back / do a deal with insurance company and organise the repair yourself? The stuff repairers can do nowadays is pretty remarkable....... and the parts are out there if you went used for some parts to keep the cost down. Just a thought.. I’ll leave the LS question for those guys...... they’re the experts.

I recently serviced my front calipers and changed the pins and rubber boots with a set I bought twelve months ago from rock auto. ive double checked I had the correct set for my year...... but still had to file the metal cuffs slightly to make them sit and seal correctly. I tried everything before to get them in...but no way.

Good to hear you’re sorted. if you need anything from the manual I’m sure one of us can dig it out.

My is250 55 plate manual is £325pa. Just to mix it up a bit 🧐

Maybe your IS thinks it’s American...😂 Sorry....not helpful but I could not resist.

If you’re not a page by page manual reader..... Button in the glove box could be a head scratcher 🧐

112,000 and still going very nicely thank you 🙏🏼 Won’t get to second spark plug change this year, I’ll drop the oil again before the winter months and a new cabin filter...... Apart from that 🤞.....

I think from a previous discussion the Saris Bones carrier was the closest anyone had gotten to acceptable on an IS. https://www.evanscycles.com/saris-bones-2-bike-rack-00120853?utm_source=LexusOwnersClubUK&utm_medium=ForumLinks&utm_content=lexusownersclub.co.uk&xid=78888&awc=1302_1559512430_24e1addc907c06ceb68538a3513e42c7 Its a good piece of kit stability and fitting to the car wise...... but still has some restricted view of rear lights and needed a second plate. The tow bar carriers have become very popular and come down in price....but still needs a tow hook fitting which are available but not cheap. When I last looked at this there was a 13 pin electrical supply option with a swan neck hook that could be rotated / removed when not in use and did not require any cutting of the rear bumper. https://www.witter-towbars.co.uk/towbars/lexus/is250/saloon/28/-is3-4629 This would be the connection to the cars power supply I think that is in diagram 7/8 of your post. I guess one of the tow hook companies might be a place to ask how a power supply ( pin socket ) could wired without a tow hook that could be underneath the car out of sight to connect to a lighting board as and when.......would have dangling wire from rack to undercar which would not be that pretty but cycle carriers by nature are all a bit wires & straps etc. hope helps phil

Are the retaining pins for the pads also missing as well as the shims? is that why they have flagged it as urgent.....theoretically could throw a pad??...... almost impossible in reality. The whole fixing kit is about £70 from lexus..... Have a chat with a decent Indy and maybe an air con specialist before calling the estate agent! 😋

I guess the only other area that can rack up a few quid are brakes ( calipers ). It’s a bit of a weak spot with this model...& when I say that you have to take in to account the overall strengths and reliability of an IS. “Even champion racehorses sweat”... as my old dad used to say 😁.... I think I knew what he meant. I don’t know if there is any reference in the paper work to any work or replacements... just a thought. Good luck phil

Just to join in..... I have exactly the same issue. Only seems to interfere with certain stations. Plus on a frosty morning I have just one “bar” that does not defrost. It appeared middle of last year not long after I had a dash cam wired in. ive been meaning to look which fuse they piggy backed and see if there could be any relationship. Agree with others got to be worth a nudge to Lexus just to see what they say.

Would you mind sharing how much the clutch/flywheel change cost..... I’m assuming from your original post you had lexus do it?

I’ve gone for a set of Pirelli All Season Plus this time (on 16” wheels)...... will be interested to see how they perform and wear. Have seen them as low as £50-55 inc vat a tyre, + free delivery on inter- web...... which I think is a pretty decent price...... £ advantage of having 16”s 👍. I do always feel I’ve gone a little deaf for the first few days as the road noise disappears compared to summer tyres. Ive also had Pirelli Sottozero 3 run flats on my BMW f11 and they were pretty good good also.

Well that’s progress it’s fired up....and from what you have said it’s was running ok until you switched it off..... so not a stall. From your comment & video post I’m assuming you believe doing this hard rest / capacitor drain / has allowed it to start. Electrical not mechanical. If it’s done it once....I guess it suggests it will do it again & you desperately need that code reader for next steps. Unless anyone else can chip in with an idea???????

No. 10, 22, 23, 24 got to be worth a look.

Is there anything ignition related in Type B fuse box? apologies....I’m at work & haven’t got hand book in front of me.

If you have a light on the start button, fingers crossed you will be able to pull a stored code.

Have you tried disconnecting the car battery for 10 mins see if you get a reset. have you got a Code reader?

Isildur hows it going?......you winning? if you found a fix let us know phil

To make sure we are in the same place. You can open the car keyless. The start button is illuminated. Without pressing the clutch down, you press the starter button once you get a red light & no dash illumination, press it a second time you get illumination and dial sweep. if you press the clutch in at this point you do not get a green light on the starter button. And it won't start.... or try to turnover......just dead. You are 100% about the fobs, the fob batteries and you have the correct car battery with the correct crank value. Up to this point you have been using the car regularly and it's been behaving normally.

Agreed....try fob + another fob battery. Have a look at the micro switch under the clutch pedal?....operating......tension in the switch etc. Big ask...but another car battery. i had an issue with very lazy central locking.....changed fob batteries.....had perfect charging & cold strat readings from my old ( original battery )..... had the electrics all checked out..... eventually changed the car battery and has been fine ever since. If you have all the right lights appearing and clutch pedal switch is is ok..... I would still bet on battery rather than an immobiliser issue etc.

So is “ pressing break pedal very very hard “ a typo? Sorry edit .... brake...as in not clutch

So is “ pressing break pedal very very hard “ a typo?

Manual?