steveledzep

Very sad.  RIP John.

As far as I know, a diesel gun is too wide a diameter to fit into a petrol tank filler.

Roof rail bolts.

I bought that same Hankook Battery when I had my problems about two years ago.  Everything has been fine since.

To occasionally charge the 12v Battery, you don't have to take it out for a spin.  Just put the vehicle into Ready mode and the 12v Battery will be charged as required.  Be careful though as anyone could steal the vehicle off your driveway, make sure it's blocked in somehow.

Lower one of the back seats and climb into the bootspace.  Take a torch and small screwdriver.  In the centre of the tailgate, just above the lock there is a small panel that you can prise out using the screwdriver.  Reach in here with a finger and you can slide the mechanism sideways to release the tailgate.  Take a piece of 2x1 timber in too, slide this under the open tailgate otherwise it will close while you clamber out again.

Go for it Herbs.  I'm a bit of a HiFi nut and I like my music through my speakers at "realistic" levels.  I live in a detached bungalow, so you're on the right lines here.  All the best to Mrs Herbs.

Give breakeryard.com a try.

Looks fantastic, but I expected the grease nipples to be prominent. 

I'm giving this a little bump, because I'd like to learn of an Independent Lexus specialist in SW Wales too.  Anyone?

Hi Rowley,   I had a 2008  IS250 SE-L for a year, then a 2009 IS250C SE-L for a couple of years before my RX which I got nearly 5 years ago.

Yes, the doors are wider and great for access, you're correct, need to be a bit more savvy when choosing parking spots.  Mine didn't have run-flats, but did have the TPMS.  Rear camera too.

I had no trouble with the roof electrics so can't comment.  The boot space with top up is cavernous, I once had a 4x12 Marshall speaker cabinet in there. With the roof stowed there's enough room for 2 or 3 supermarket carriers.  Back seat is always available for stuff too.

The rear seat space is somewhat smaller than the saloon, but useable for kiddies and smaller stature adults for short journeys.

At the time we had ours we needed two vehicles.  We're now retired and one vehicle suffices.  I'd have another 250C in a heartbeat if I could justify a second car.

That's the practicalities discussed.  Most of all...we had fantastic times in ours discovering the west Wales coastline from Aberaeron to Saundersfoot.  Any fine weather we'd take a day out, even if it's a wee bit cooler, the heater and heated seats made for a very comfortable experience (wind deflector is essential).

Hope this helps.

Top Gear used to be about cars.  I haven't watched it since then.

27 minutes ago, Herbie said:

Batteries go by age rather than mileage so I doubt very much it'll be under any warranty. I'd say it's just time for a new one.

I agree, 4 or 5 years for a Battery.

You don't need to take a hybrid for a drive to charge the Battery.  Just put it in "Ready" mode and leave it parked.  It charges from the traction Battery and the ICE kicks in when necessary to maintain the charge.  Just watch it doesn't get nicked.

I bought this over two years ago.  It works a treat.  I did the lamps again earlier this year, just to freshen them up really.  I've still got over half of the tube left.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222547343393

I had a similar rattle from the boot area too Mike.  When the roof is up, there's quite a lot of plastic within the boot area.  I bought a pack of rubber door wedges from B&Q (other hardware stores are available) and I wedged them in between adjacent plastic mouldings to "firm up" the bits rattling.  Worked for me and it will only cost you a couple of quid to try.

1 hour ago, Phil xxkr said:

Unless you buy from Richer Sounds where it can be 5/6 years! 

Five years warranty on all TVs from John Lewis.

10 hours ago, steve2006 said:

Wheel nut torque is normally 76lb/ft for Lexus wheels, the handbook will confirm this figure.

Yes, I tighten my wheel nuts to 76lb/ft as per handbook.  The locking ones I just do tight and firm as I'm not sure the key would cope with 76lb/ft.

The difference in weight of the wheel nuts will be of negligible consequence as they are very close to the centre of the wheel.  If they were located at the perimeter of the wheel the imbalance would be more noticable.

1 hour ago, petesurrey said:

Thanks. Which version do you have out of interest?

See my profile.  It's the Luxury spec.

1 hour ago, petesurrey said:

Hi, forgive me for jumping in, I am a newbie here. I am looking at buying a 2013 RX 450h, which I understand has a sunroof and no built in roof bars.

Would the Thule set up you refer to work? Please would you be kind enough to share the details. 

 

I have a 2013 RX.  It doesn't have a sunroof but does have roof rails.

I'm not aware of Battery savers, so I'd have used the same solution that Alan suggests.

I can understand the concern about the crocodile clips shorting, so make sure the crocs are always on the Battery terminals when connecting/disconnecting the OBD plug.

4 hours ago, Barry14UK said:

The Panasonic battery has a flat top enabling the earth lead to be brought back over the top using the Lexus strap to the earthing point at the rear of the car.  The Hankook battery you purchased has it's negative terminal  below the top of the battery in a pocket.  I would be interested to know whether you used an alternative earthing point in front of the battery, as re-routing out of the pocket sideways looks like you might obstruct the tyre on the spare wheel.  I did work out another way to do this but but maybe it's not necessary.

Avoiding the spare tyre with the earth lead is even more critical if you fit the next larger size in this battery range, 027 size, which I would like to do. It's 242mm long and should just fit in my tray-must check precisely as will be a tight fit.  At 60Ah it's about 20% up on the Panasonic one or the Hankook you fitted. 

 

 

  

No re-routing necessary, just attached the -ve to the post.

No, I didn't maintain connection, just swapped them over.  The failed Battery had lost its charge on a few occasions.  I bought a smart charger for future use and got one with flying leads that are permanently attached to the Battery with a connection socket magically protruding from the boot floor.  Saves dismantling everything when maintaining the Battery.

12 minutes ago, Vadim said:

A few photos of the troubled PBD ECU for reference.

Wow, that looks really complicated.  My PBD failed last December and I replaced the aux Battery in January.  Like you Vadim, my PBD didn't start working again until 3 months later in April.  This resurrection of the PBD occurred after a lengthy dry spell of weather.  This got me thinking and I noticed the roof rail mounting is immediately above the ecu and motor assembly.  I can't say if it was damp affecting the ecu, but I removed the rail mounting bolts and used copious amounts of Plumbers Mate when refitting.  It certainly won't do any harm and may just avoid failure from water ingress in the future.

This is the one I bought Paul.  It's slightly shorter than the undertray but the width is just fine.  I had to pack the bracing bar by about 10mm because this Battery is not quite as high as the original.

It has worked faultlessly since fitting in January and my power tailgate has started working again.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254122603753

My attempt at a joke Barry.  When I started driving with a MkI Escort, I could clean and reset the plugs and attend to the points with some wet&dry all inside quarter of an hour.  It takes longer than that to work out where the plugs are these days.

Poor starting was usually electrical, or with a manual choke it was easy to "flood the carburettor."

Great entertainment.  I'd worry about flooding the carburettor. 😉