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Killysprint

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Posts posted by Killysprint

  1. 21 hours ago, LenT said:

    Other than for track use, I wonder in what way the OEM pads are considered inadequate for regular use on public roads?  Just asking….

    the std pads on RCF/GSF are well known to create significant amounts of Brake dust and in a number of cases brake squeal, which can be very annoying. They’re also expensive for what they are.  Toyota have in the past issued service notices to change from the OEM brake compound to softer pads on their cars before due to brake squeal. So as a manufacturer they’re altering pad material from std, so it can’t create that much of an problem. We had exactly this on my sons GT86.

    Changing from OEM, on the front of my car has significantly reduced dusting, I’ve had zero squeal and I think initial bite from the brakes is better. The GSF brakes are good, but it’s far from having the best brakes of a car I’ve had or driven.

    Also as every car has a bias towards the front brakes anyway, having a bit more at the front isn’t a bad thing is it?

     

    • Like 1
  2. 4 hours ago, RichGS11 said:

     I do like the look of the Alfa QF

    Seriously thought about one before the GSF, car was fantastic. Beautiful, extremely quick, great to drive, however the local dealer didn’t really inspire confidence….. and when it went wrong and it would go wrong, when it comes to my cars and spending my hard earned cash on them,  I don’t suffer fools gladly at the best of times, so incompetent dealers are a big no, so it was quickly of the list.

    Both lexus havent gone wrong, the local dealers were great, both have recently been taken over by stoneacre, so haven’t experienced the pleasure of dealing with them yet. But then again, you can’t really make a mess of a plug, fliter, oil change and a once over. That’s all they do, and long may it continue.

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  3. GR Yaris. You run out of superlatives for that. 
    My son is 3 months into a circuit pack equipped car, after a gt86 that saw him through uni….. (I wanted one)

    the gt86 was a brilliant steer, with sufficient performance, l loved it. The Yaris however is on another level. Epic little car. If you don’t need the space - and you can get one, it’s a no brainer.

    as for what’s after a GSF. For me, for a new daily driver God only knows. I want a new car, I’d like it to be comfortable to chew some miles if necessary. But don’t know which way to jump. Don’t want the hassle of a Merc or bmw. Been there before. They break. JLR absolutely no chance. We have an ipace company car, it took 9 weeks to get it into the garage for a Battery fault, they’ve had it 3 weeks now, and want it for at least another 2!!! Never again. My old defender has been more reliable than that POS. Newcastle Jaguar have been absolute rubbish, customer service has been non existent.

    had thought about going to an 991 Carrera T, but have a older 911 which might not be as quick, but will wipe the floor for driver involvement compared to a newer one. 
    So while changing the ISF to the GSF was an easy decision, the next change is a tough one. 

    Might keep it and supercharge it…….

  4. It’s a known problem on the ISF. The bottom arm bushes can wear and soften causing the inside edge of the tyre to wear more. Usually cured by replacing the bush or going to RRR UPRS.

    I’ve eventually got round to changing the hankooks on my gsf, that the dealer had put on when I bought the car, with pilot 4s. (Difference is unbelievable - that’s another story )

    fronts were evenly worn across the tyre. 
    my ISF didn’t suffer from the issue either. 
    GSF has 44k miles on it, ISF had 50k when I sold it. Guess it’s luck of the draw 

    • Like 1
  5. So, beautiful day, at a bit of loose end, thought I’d change the rear disks and pads on the car this morning. I’ve had a set of both sitting waiting for the right moment. Car has 44,000 miles on so thought it must be ready.

    Wheel off, pads out - bearly half worn. I even measured them.

    the rear pads have a chamfer on the trailing edge, which flattens out at the wear indicator level. It’s way above there. Both pads and both sides were the same.

    new pad was 17,5 mm thick (including the back plate) one I took out was 13,6mm thick. Hence they’ve gone back in. 
     

    I bought the car with 28,000 miles on. I have the printed service history of the car - no pad replacement on it. They are Lexus pads on the car, question is what are other owners seeing mileage wise on pads and disk wear or replacement??

    I replaced the front pads at 33,000 and the ones I took off had loads of life left in them. Hadn’t even scratched the wear indicator. Maybe should have left them a bit longer…….

    guarentee when it goes in for a service - needs rear disks and pads sir…….

    • Like 1
  6. I used my ISF as my daily for 2 1/2 years, and 27k miles ish.

    Used to do a bi-weekly trip to Leeds from Newcastle, keeping up with the traffic 70-80mph over 30mpg was easily achieved.

    used to go to Inverness probably every 6 weeks, longer run, slower average speed saw up to 35mpg regularly.

    on the school run, 2 miles there and back was in late teens mpg.

    mine was a 2011 facelift - utterly reliable, apart from regular servicing, it had a set of brakes and a wiper blades
    cracking cars. But due to their age now buy condition and history- not colour, age or spec.

  7. 55 minutes ago, scott-o said:

     

    Thats good, thanks for the pointers, if i end up with mid 15 - mid 16 ill be happy enough! Like i say, im not greedy about value so wouldnt be interested about putting it up for high value and waiting, just more time to deal with time wasters 😂

    Thanks! I thought that would be upper end of what i may get but happy to be a grand or so less.

    Potentially! I had it for the full weekend and loved it. It would also free up some cash if i take advantage of the 0% deal and with the missus not going back to work after her maternity leave thats quite an important factor at the moment.

    I love the ISF but i kind of just trundle about in it, if its nice weather ill take my old bmw out and if its wet i dont really want to go for a proper hoon in the ISF as i dont think it will end well 😂 where is your son purchasing from, is it a Stoneacre branch? My mums boyfriend is with Stoneacre and kindly sorted the extended test period, which was much appreciated!

    And thanks, the specialist i got it from has said they'd definitely be interested in taking it back, will have a chat with them this week for ease!

    He’s got his order in at the metro centre branch. Black circuit pack. He’s had a gt86 for the past 3 and a bit years, has been brilliant, a cracking steer and as I said prices for the right car are strong - stoneacre are offering nearly what I paid for it in dec 17 for it against the Yaris. The Yaris was amazing, grip, handling and the grunt were fantastic for a little car. Only thing I wasn’t keen on was the front passenger seat sat very high, but that’s minor. Whatever you decide you’ll have a cracking car - Yaris or isf.

    hopefully we get some finer weather so you can get your 2002 out. It’s a special thing, love it.

    This is my ‘70s guilty pleasure. Bored +40, dms2 Kent cam, bottom end lightened and balanced, 45’s. About 170hp And a pioneer kex cassette player with a graphic equaliser and the obligatory shelf speakers.

    19C22697-7A62-4849-A060-AD3FB5F13E27.jpeg

    E9B9B8CC-2D07-4919-AACD-28834E528C0E.jpeg

  8. Big rat did the same to his a couple of years ago. Had  his local dealer do them for him. They cocked it up if I remember and replaced them for new FOC. I’m sure he’ll be along soon to confirm.

    There’s been a number of threads over the years to discuss colour changes. Have a search and I’m sure you’ll find them.

    ive use BCS near Nottingham before for my painting and refurbish my porsche callipers. Good service and quality is spot on. No peeling as they’re done properly.

     

  9. It’s at the local Nissan dealers. They are a Nissan performance centre so sell the GTR and the old 370z.

    They seem to have to take a new GTR as a showroom model / demo every change of regs-‘d they’ve had a couple of bronze GTRs hanging round for a while. Wouldn’t be surprised if the RCF was chipped in against one.

    Will be interesting to see how long it hangs around at that price.......

  10. I bought a full set of discs a couple of months ago, as I know my rears will need changing soon. Thought at the price was daft not to get the fronts too.

    used buy car parts - absolutely no problem. Bits came from Germany.....

    The 4 brembo discs were £67 each. No brainer. Arrived within a couple of days. 

    managed to pick some lexus pads up on eBay - so quite happy.

  11. Have Hankook Ventus 2’s all round on my GSF. They were a new set fitted by the dealer before I bought the car. I’m sure ultimately they’re not as good as pilot super sports, or the 4s, which is what I’ll put on the car when they need changed. But they don’t create a lot of noise, wet grip is good, wear rate is decent, rears have done 16,000 miles, and still ok, they’ve been fine overall.

     Audi use them as factory fit for the current RS4 / RS5 models, which although isn’t an endorsement says that the manufacturer must be happy enough with the overall performance of the product. (And the price!)

    I’ve been looking at tyres lately, and the hankooks vs the Michelin’s on tyre leader / cam skill etc are around £40-50 cheaper a corner. However if your quick, Michelin have a deal, ends at the end of March, on at kwikfit where they’ll knock 15% of 4 tyres, and a free set of wireless headphones!!!!!!! (Obviously not the apple ones so the kids won’t use them). Costco, ats and others are offering deals too but the Kwik fit was cheapest.

    For the GSF all 4 tyres was £630, which I didn’t think was too bad, almost like for like for the hankooks.

    • Like 1
  12. 10 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

    Not sure... it isn't for me... not the sound of vacuum cleaner is that satisfactory compared to magnificent note of V8.

    The only car where I didn't mind it was new MB E300 (still tiny 2l turbo), somehow 9speed box there managed it in the way that I didn't feel it shifting at all and it was quite effortless. 

    On all other cars I just feel them shifting and kind of hunting for gears, not at all luxurious if you ask me.

    The e300 is a POS. We have a e350e estate- same engine with the hydrid, so more combined power and torque and it’s crap. A shopping trolley.

    If that’s you’re idea of a good car with a turbo motor - there’s no point in even discussing this further.

  13. On 2/24/2021 at 10:56 PM, Killysprint said:

    M3/M4 “outright sports car” - never in a million years. Performance saloon - yes

    And again - you’re not driving the right turbo cars. Plateaus then change up - nope. 
    In a shopping trolley yes. Not in a proper performance “turbo” like an M, RS, AMG, Porsche etc etc etc. They pull like hell to the red line.

    and as @Flytvrsaid the nanny programming on the gearbox wanting to be in the highest gear possible is a problem and does effect ultimate performance. I use mine as a daily, and find it fine for that. Using the paddles in S+ allows the performance to used to the full if required.

     


     

    • Like 1
  14. 10 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

    That was just example... point I am trying to make - on NA engine most likely your optimal shift point is going to be as close to redline as possible, on FI engine that shift point maybe somewhere else. Perhaps not 4000RPM, but neither it is at redline.

    If we look specifically at 8AR-FTS, it has tiny turbo and reaches max torque at 4000RPM, it reaches top power at 4800RPM and just plateaus to 5600RPM. In short optimal shift is between 4000RPM and 4800RPM, past 4800RPM there is no point revving the engine higher as it does not produce any more power.

    Again, I am not trying to specifically discuss my engine, nor I imply that you have to shift all FI engines at 4000RPM, it is just example to highlight the point that unlike NA engines, FI engines may have optimal shift point well before redline.

    You’re comparing the 8AR-FTS which is a run of the mill, mid range slogger, used in mid range saloons and SUVs, To relatively high performance engines used in a totally different sector and class of cars.

    The 8AR-FTS wasn’t designed to be a high revver - the turbo is used to downsize the engine, improve torque and to aid with emissions and conform with the ever tighter environment constraints being put on the motor industry. In the past the engine would have probably been multi cylinder (5 or 6) 2.5 L or more, where the red line would have been no more than 6 or 6500. 
     

    The V8 red lines at 7100? - peak torque 4800? 470hp and around 385 Ib Ft if torque. And it is a torque peak. And because of this you to make the most of the performance you have to rev the knackers off it to make it move.

    Most turbos now have a boost front that grows from idle, plateauing upto and around 4500 revs, then depending on the application in higher performance cars revs keep building, boost flattens the power kicks in and maintains ooomph, or in more mid range boost decreases and they run out of puff, so it’s best to change gear and get back on the torque plateau.

    Turbos and superchargers are here to stay until the ICE is replaced with electric. They allow for a more flexible drive, without thrashing the motor, conformity to emissions regulations but not necessarily a better engine or experience.

    which do I prefer?

    let’s look at the cars on the drive here

    GSF, S2000, gt86, 993 3.8, 968CS, dolly sprint notice the trend........

     

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