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About Foeux

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  1. Had a look for nipped. Wasn't one sadly... If shot, I'd love to take you up on offer. As it is brakes a lot better now. ABS working and good power again. Odd. Will replace hoses and report back. Also going to stick some more serious brake pads in it.
  2. Ah... I took of brake res cap but did not loosed bleed nipples. How easy is MC seal to 'flip'? Thanks for replying so swiftly.
  3. Dear All, I just did a 3000 mile charity drive around Europe in my LS400. It was excellent and incredibly fast. I wont do any 'willy waving' but we were all startled. Anyway, going really fast means some serious stopping at times. Unsurprisingly, we warped the discs (3rd set) and cooked the fluid needed changing. With pals, it was jacked, and bled (furthest from master cylinder first) like any other car. Pedal felt rock solid. Engine turned on and the pedal goes straight to the floor. So I consulted the interned and found that there is an 'ignition on/ignition off' protocol. Did it this way, pedal felt rock solid, straight to the floor. tried activating abs on gravel. no real improvement. When discs and pads were changed, they were very very clean and the pistons in the calipers all pushed back in with moderate thumb pressure. It has had over 1.5l of fluid, some air has come out and fluid expelled on each corner is now crystal clear. What am I doing wrong and how do I fix it? Usualy a competent DIY mechanic but this has me (and the lexus dealership in bristol stumped.
  4. So, guided by the numerous UK and US threads on the benefits of changing coolant temp sensors, I decided to do mine. Would the performance increase? Would it stop the bugger running rich the whole time? Would it be impossibly difficult? It took maybe 45 mins total, including a cuppa. It is frustrating how much has to come off to get to the sensor. I tried to cheat but soon realised there were no short cuts. With everything off, a deep 19mm was all that was needed. No coolant was lost and the only fumble was dropping the old copper washer and carefully placing the new one. The sensor that came out was grubby but not visibly damaged. Everything went back easily enough and the car started a treat. Since doing that it has done 200 miles and I can report that: It no longer runs rich once warm. It reaches idle RPM faster. It has perhaps filled out the mid-range a little. It no longer does the juddery thing it used to do when coming off mild throttle. In short, it is easy to do and cured rich running.
  5. When renewal comes up, be sure to ring Chris Knott as they are real people (brokers) and do "proper insurance". Havig had to deal with Admiral outside of just renewing insurance, I will never use them again (nor elephant or diamond). F
  6. I am all for having the right kind of cover but is sounds like you are being done over a bit. Who are you with and what mileage and extras have you got on the policy?
  7. I use Chris Knott for every day insurance and Footman James for classic. Classic on the lexus is <£200 and a mere £46 for a Peugeot 205.
  8. I took my fobs apart and they had a little corrosion in. Contact cleaner, emery board, new battery, done.
  9. Chris Knott are very very competitive: 0800 917 2274 (Option 2, Option 1) Footman James are even more competitive: 0333 207 6120 This is only my own experience, yours may differ.
  10. Hub face very clean, used a wire brush followed by a load of brake cleaner and rags. Discs changed due to a large lip and ferocious squeaking. Thought it would be 'like new' if I chaged the lot. It seems I have just created more hassle. Not fakes. 100% feedback ebayer with long history to track back through. As above, hub was super clean. Did not replace the 'hold the disc still' screws as the others had to be removed with a chisel, half a turn at a time. Could this be a problem? I will look into the lubes you recommend but the shake is so sever I doubt it is that alone. That said it is useful to know about copper slip's properties for future work. I am going to replace the discs re-supplied by the ebay seller and re-re-check all nuts, bolts and clips. At motorway speeds, when brakes are applied, especially with any steering input, the judder is alarming!
  11. This is what owning a cheap, fun car should be all about. Well done that man.
  12. I changed the discs and pads in my ls400 this weekend. I was really pleased to see that the calipers had been rebuilt when pushing the pistons back. They all moved back smoothly with thumb pressure only and look to have been rebuilt at some stage. The disc retention screws were made of soft metal and rounded instantly, despite plenty of penetrating fluid and waiting, they were removed with a punch and hammer which took ages. The new discs were cleaned off and put on. The new pads were copper slipped to stop squeaks (hopefully). Everything was tightened and checked again. A pal and I service and maintain a modest fleet of cars between us and have plenty of experience and can see nothing else wrong (pads not contaminated, all pins and clips secure, all bolts and nuts done up). Sadly, the discs are already 'warped', vibrating really strongly when brakes are applied, the higher the speed the brakes are applied at, the worse the wobble. Also seems worse once brakes are warm. It took 3h for this fault to surface and it was not there before on the old pads and discs; just squeaked a lot and we're running low. Having looked around the Internet, warped discs seem common but I wonder if anyone has experienced them this soon after changing. The eBay seller has agreed to exchange the discs and cover return costs which I think is great. The discs were 'blueprint' ones. Any similar experience?
  13. Steve, I have been away at a funeral. Dropped you a call and have left my mob no and email in a PM. Apologies for radio-silence. F
  14. Is getting rid of these wheels a time-sensitive project? If not, tell me when is convenient. Cup of tea/coffee waiting for when you are around.
  15. Ever fond yourself wiltshire or Bath way?