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OldTrout

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  1. If is like my 2007, it is not a rod or a linkage. You insert a long 12” cross head screwdriver into an almost horizontal tunnel. No need to remove anything except covers. Can’t get at car to send photo sorry. John
  2. Edward, Why not just replace the bulb? If your wife has smaller hands than you she could be a great help. John
  3. I recently had my front tracking corrected at local place. One adjustment was seized but chap put a clamp at the end of a cable on it and passed current until it was very hot - reddish- and this freed it off. Seemed to be perfectly normal bit of kit in the tracking bay. Quicker than penetrating oil too. Find place with this kit? John
  4. Steve, It does thank you! At first I missed it as the unit filmed had a "side marker" light which I didn't have. You get to the turn indicator bulb though the same opening as a dipped beam HID bulb. Small hands are a real advantage here but I would guess if you can do the HID you can also do this one. I though to look in the manual but not on Youtube🙁 John
  5. I recently replaced a damaged headlight from my Mk 3 450h. Possessing a curious mind I though I would take the old damaged unit apart. I didn't get very far. It seems that the interesting bits are assembled and then the front perspex is glued in. I does not come apart easily. I saved some bulbs and then wondered where the indicator bulb was. I couldn't find a bulb. I guess a light pipe could get light into the amber turn indicator area but where does the light come from? The manual says the owner can replace the headlight bulbs and the sidelight bulb but if the indicator light fails it is a dealer job. Can anyone shed light? John
  6. Oliver, If only your email 24 hrs ago. Yesterday I tried to take it apart myself out of interest. It was never meant to be disassembled!If you PM me with more specific request I will hook out the bits from the bin! John
  7. And here are the requested photos. I have washed the car since but I have still to get the last of the tape adhesive off. Very hard to remove.
  8. I bought the blue wing which in normal light looks black. I now have two-tone car. You have to pay real money for that with an RCF. I also had to buy a headlight as the damaged one was not working properly. I got a s/h unit from a 2006 car. This turned out to be much better than mine and more light gets out. Thus I have an old GS Mk3 headlight unit if anyone would like bits or all of it for cost of carriage. It's a very interesting and complex bit of kit. John
  9. Thanks John, He does indeed have a good selection although not the bits I need. His address is a private house so I suspect he handles the on-line stuff for another breaker in Doncaster called Perfect Car Body. I have found a blue wing but am still looking for a red one. John
  10. Thanks Steve. If the only change were the indicator that would be ok as I can easily drill couple of holes for an indicator. What is possibly more important is the tabs where it bolts on. I found a nice red wing with indicator but seller doesn't post and he is up in the far north. John
  11. I have located some wings and headlights. I have found a wing in red but it is for a 2011 car. My question is, apart from turn indicator light, is the wing the same as 2007 car? John
  12. Thanks Steve, I had been searching on wing and headlight. Searching on breaking gives a whole lot more. And this one is red which as is well known is the proper colour for a Lexus. John
  13. Thanks guys. Just back from seeing my garage. "Find another wing and light unit and we will do it" so he agrees with you. Wings seem to be about £80 but the only light unit I have found so far is £430 and brand new. Wafting to garage I noticed the steering wheel is now slightly anti-clockwise when going straight so the wheel must have had a clout. The front wheels are very slightly cross-eyed. Alignment will fix that I think. More concerning perhaps is the AFS light flashing on the dash. It doesn't stop if I turn off AFS. I have never been able to spot AFS working so I don't really care about it. Is the mechanism inside the light unit? I need to check if levelling is still ok. The car was my pride and joy when I first bought it. It was by far the best car I had owned and despite 100k miles was like new. Various battle scars only one of which was mine have removed the pride in how it looks. But it is still a joy to drive when you can't see the scars. It seems it will be with me a while longer. I will keep you posted. John
  14. My 2007 SEL with 140k miles hit a lamppost yesterday. Only pride (not mine) was hurt but what to do? The lights all still work - it is the housing and plastic front that is damaged. The car has bumps and scrapes at all corners but everything woks and it wafts along a treat. I have yet to ask my friendly garage guy for advice. A body work place would want to do a proper job with new light unit but I guess this would be uneconomic. I need it patched up- I don't care what it looks like if it is road legal. Suggestions?
  15. https://proslip.com/product/grease-for-brake-calipers/ will give you a approved lubrications for all three areas. John
  16. Chad, Sport mode stiffens up the dampers, increases the steering ratio i.e. you don't need to turn the wheel so much for a given bend, and quicken the throttle response. So yes, more fun on bendy roads. John
  17. Tim, Not a silly question at all. I assume but am open to correction that adding this 'thing' moves the resonant frequency out of the audible range. John
  18. It looks as if you have space to wrap it with https://www.toolstation.com/fiberfix-heat-wrap/p17590 Worth a try for £10.98. John
  19. Valentin My main beam has a clear plastic front but yours is orange. Is this standard on 2008 model? John
  20. Valentin HID bulbs can't be switched on and off rapidly so main beam lamps are always filament lamps. (Pre LED this is.) I don't understand Osram's "cool blue" and "4200K" statements. Blue usually means higher figures like 6000K or even 10000k. 4200k would be yellowish not blue. Perhaps they are using the terms in some different way. Confusional advertising? Someone will be along to correct/enlighten me. John
  21. Jack I carry in my boot some Fibre Fix heat wrap https://www.toolstation.com/fiberfix-heat-wrap/p17590?_br_psugg_q=fibre+fix?searchstr=Fibre fix. You might be able to wrap the whole box and flanges in this for £10.98 to give you a while longer before a new part. J
  22. Peter, My experience with button cells is that they are sometimes flat even before you fit them. Have you checked they are giving over 3V? Easy to check before getting into more complicated investigations. John
  23. Sergio, Can you live with it until the warmer weather? Taking the wing mirror apart to get at the mechanism is much easier when the whole mirror assembly is warm. Then the mirror itself will pop out easily and you can get at everything. If it's cold it will not and you risk breaking something. You could warm it up with a hair drier but starting from a much higher temp is much the best way. John
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