Lost it

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  1. Ah. The dreaded chemo... I've had bowel cancer twice now, and realised there's no point not enjoying life, go and do what you want. It's all about attitude. So I bought a V8 Jaguar, a new motorbike, Should have bought a bog hopper though. Just bought an RX300 because the last cancer op pretty much messed up my lymphatic system and my leg keeps swelling up. So if I'm sat in the Jag for more than 3 hours, I struggle to lever myself out of the car because of the swollen leg. I figure with the Lexus, if it happens I can just open the door and fall out.. To be fair I've had Lexus cars before, I had a GS300, boiught my wife an IS200 because of how reliable the GS was, so getting something like that so that I could get in and out easier, well it had to be Lexus, not some other eastern vehicle. You know where you are with Lexus.Unless you rely on the satnag of course...
  2. Re the greasing the brake pipes thing... As Herbie says. Doesn't mention this at all in the latest MOT testers manual. So I'll be questioning that one and asking for the evidence if it crops up.
  3. I'd still use it because it's allegedly able to stop the rust that is already present. I'll be buying a Waxoyl pack soon anyway, might as well cover myself in gunge. There's only really odd bits, mainly around the exhaust system, suspension mounts, that kind of thing. Up on the ramps, off with the wheels, on with the spray. And on another slightly worrying point... My MOT guy told me that if a brake pipe has been coated with grease, it's now a fail. I've always done this...
  4. But unfortunately, you will be storing up trouble for later on if you ignore the lambda sensors. As it will kill the cats eventually. And they are a "big ticket" item. And it might not always be the case that the engine itself isn't checked for emissions.
  5. From what I can gather that "box of bits" on the jump starter Lithium things is there to stop the car's charging system from "boosting" the booster if it manages to start the car. Because lithium batteries don't apparently like 60 amps being shoved at them. Anyway, to the point, if your booster stops working, it's probably because this "safety device" has melted.. I cut the one on mine off and joined the wires, I had to get a generator running for a shop over xmas and it was the only way. The poor thing got so hot it melted the jumper cable. Did the job, but trying to get another set of leads for it was almost impossible. If I hadn't got the genny running, the sprinklers would likely have gone off... Just what they needed on Xmas eve. So be aware, they are good pieces of kit, but they can be a bit fragile. I don't think I'd want to plug one directly into my car without the "protection" pack being in there as well?
  6. In my humble experience, the "Service history" is a stamp in the book and that's it. Even when you have a receipt that says the work was done, if it is hard to do it won't have been because the mechanics will be on a "menu time" to do the service so they check, measure sometimes, but if they can get away with saving some time they will. Wheels won't need to come off if they can see the pads, so they won't check for sticking calipers unless the customer mentions it, and with a brand like Lexus I'd imagine the chances that the driver would notice something like a brake dragging would be slim? It's only when they get older/middle aged and are bought by someone who gives a monkeys that they get the servicing they should have.IMHO. I have the state of my transmission oil to back me up on this...
  7. Yes. There is a warrranty that he has to adhere to. Much as they won't want to admit it. Is he expecting you to change the part yourself? What happens if you manage to shear the old one off is that your problem? This dealer is not doing the right thing is he?
  8. I think based on what I've found I ought to get a new set of plugs and check that the harder to get to rear bank has had new plugs in it at some point. I won't be holding my breath that they have beeen changed.
  9. Ahh. The "problem" with these types of reviews is that they are very situation specific. I don't think any driver, whether careful, experienced, long distance or even plain lunatic, goes out looking for situations where they can do a crash stop in the wet. And I will still maintain that a top notch premium tyre with only 1.6mm of tread on 3mm of water won't be as good at clearing water and stopping the vehicle as one fitted with "HooFlungDung" chinese ditch finders with 7mm of tread in the same situation. Should you ever find yourself in that situation. Because what stops you is rubber on the road, not the rubber sliding on the water. In the same way that very few of us ever test the tyre's limit of adhesion "on the limit" in the dry or the wet.. We are car drivers, driving a luxury barge, not Ayrton Senna in an F1 car. Driving in that manner would soon bring you to the attention of someone, even if it was only the ambulance crew. I am a big believer in putting 4 season rubber on though. But as I've only just got my RX, and as I don't know if I'm going to grow to love it, I went for a set of mid range/budget tyres for the now. The tyres it came with were three different makes and frankly dangerous.If these lower budget things don't last long, it will be long enough for me to decide if the car is the right move for me. The cost of the tyres whilst it might be a consideration, really isn't depending on your values. It depends on the state of your bank balance at the time of purchase. When I do decide, I'll be fitting Goodyear Vectors because I've run them for years on my Jaguar's and besides a little bit of tyre thrum, they have never left me thinking they are more than adequate for the car's performance. I even put a set on my wife's Fiesta because I need to make sure she can get home to make my tea. I can "light the Vector's up" with the V8 S type, but only if I really am in the right mood. Which isn't often these days.
  10. Aye. Just read the article. I think a "Drain/refill/flush" is basically what I have done Mark. The amount of ATF i put through it, well I almost ran out of empty 5 litre bottles... The "Flush using a machine" requires two filters. One to replace what's already in and one to put in once the system has been flushed, theory being anything removed by the flush through will be in the "new" filter so it's best to start afresh. As Jaguar quote astronomical prices for a new ZF trans for the XJ350 series, the cost of a couple of filters is money well wasted IMHO. I've ordered another one for mine for the same reason. I'll run it for a couple of tank fills and then do it again. I probably won't get the same benefit a 2nd time shift quality wise though. If you are even vaguely interested in the ZF box and how "proper" technicians do the gearbox oil flush, there's about two houyrs worth of articles and video's in here.. Always called them "Zed Eff" boxes. Not "Zee Eff" like this guy says it. https://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=84945
  11. Well, depends who you talk to. There's a theory that you might dislodge some "dirt" that was helping the gearbox work, but to my mind that's similar to expecting sand to smooth valve orifices. In other words, that theory is telling anyone with an Auto box to never change the fluid completely. Well, the ZF box in my jaguarXJ6 has to be flushed by machine to do that properly, and I wouldn't argue with ZF. I can't see Aisin saying it's a good idea to leave grimy fluid in there either. But it's worth a look at their website I guess. But as I was changing the filter anyway... And I'd argue if the ATF that filthy, it's not going to be clean fluid that will finally kill it. It won't be "dirty fluid" that's making the box work. It will be dirty fluid that is making it run hotter than it should? And if it's that dirty and the filter is clogged, then the gearbox oil pump will also be struggling to keep everything pressurised you would think. I didn't see any sign of a "bypass" system on the old filter, but I spent about 15 minutes cleaning it with Brake cleaner and it was still coming out a dirty yellow/broan colour when I finished. I think it's fairly safe to say it's never been off. Besides, I quite enjoy pulling things to pieces and rebuilding them. And if it does fail, I could look at putting a 5 speeder in it rather than the 3+over drive one that's in it at present. Only nuts and bolts at the end of the day. But I have to say, after the oil change, the actual gearbox performance is almost faultless. Even the kick down works now. I have looked at the Service history. It does have a listing for 4 litres of ATF. So I guess they simply charged for it, or just dropped the sump? But the filter was definitely the original.
  12. Two different types of sensor that I'm aware of, so you kind of need to know what type your particular car has installed. And usually, giving your reg number to a Motor factor will allow them to check which type you have? TITANIA OXYGEN SENSORS. Vary in resistance based on the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas. ZIRCONIA OXYGEN SENSORS. Produce a voltage which varies based on the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas. ... The usual problem is that the heater circuit has failed.
  13. So this guy wants you to take a stanley knife (other makes are available) to your own car? Ok. I put that as close to the pleasure I'd get dragging my fingers down a chalk board...
  14. I've watched a few utube video's etc. about Krown rust proofing and wish there was one closer to me. http://www.krown.co.uk/ I just don't have the free time to do what the OP has done, so something like this would be the better option for me. I also use spray cans of Waxoyl, but it never seems to go off..