V8Rumble

My car has a single point system which works fine. You can switch to lpg earlier before running temp as it is brought in a bit like a carb in the charge mixture. Ran a 7.5 litre Pontiac on lpg through a carb no problem for years and even started it on lpg

Tinley Tech in Cambridgeshire http://tinleytech.co.uk/

Well eventually an update My mate had chance to open up the ecu and sure enough the leaky capacitors reared their heads. All replaced with good ones not cheap Chinese copies Car now runs as it should, just a pity the recall only happened in the USA and these lovely cars were blighted with this problem. As I had to stop using the car until the fix I now have a new daily so the car is regretfully up for sale on E-bay after spending a lot of time and money on it My loss someone else's gain

Pretty sure on the MK3 it is just ecu. Mine has a separate aftermarket alarm and door lock activator Someone correct me if I am wrong but I think it is immobiliser etc from the MK4 onwards.

Update time Put the car in the main stealers today and after 3 hours they could not get any codes from the car even though the engine light was on. They even tried linking out the two ports on the socket as we all do but nothing. They made no charge as they did not complete any diagnostics although they did confirm it was not mechanical. The search will have to go on by myself to try and get to the bottom of this ho hum

Malc are the American ecu's the same as the UK e.g. emissions etc as I did think about getting one from there. Still haven't located a year specific ecu for my mate to have a go at. I have took the plunge and it is booked in at the Stealership tomorrow to see if they can lift any codes with a strict instruction not to fix it if they do. Your 1932 Triumph beats my 1955 Cadillac by a few years for being old.

Just another update After changing the O2 sensors the problem persisted on and off for a couple of days I have been driving engine light free since the start of November But on New Years day it all started again and having just been out in the car it has decided to idle at 2500rpm Happy New ****** Year I haven't located a year specific ecu to do the capacitor change as yet but still looking for one

I am in the process of locating an ecu for my car rather than mess with what is in the car albeit running badly. I have a mate who is a bit of a whiz with the electronics and will be doing the capacitor swap and then hopefully swap the reconditioned one with the faulty one. If all works out I will get him to recondition the other one as well (no good to you as my car is a 95) If you can wait a couple of weeks he may be able to do yours I will ask him when I see him. He is located in Rugby

Could anyone tell me whether the ecu's are different on different year cars? e.g. do I need an ecu for 94-97 for my 95 plate car or would a 91 fit? I think I read somewhere that some of them had an immobiliser incorporated

Changed the two primary O2 lambda sensors today Started fine, drove about a mile engine light on then off Did about ten miles light, on light off, stalling at junctions, idling fine No codes coming up again Have bought the capacitors and a good techy mate will be fitting them on the 10th Hopefully that will cure the problem as I am running out of ideas/options

Another update on this one Went on holiday for a week after driving to the airport in limp home mode Came back a week later and car drove home (60 miles) with no engine light and was great. Next morning after about fifteen seconds light on grrrrrrrr!! light went on and off at random and has done for about four days. The good thing was that it threw up two codes 21 and 28 This points to the primary pre cat CO2 sensors. Before I buy new ones is there any way to check them? Do they act erratically or just fail? As usual any help welcome.

The car bought up engine light when first started which I put down to silicone fumes curing. Reset ecu once it cooled and car drove great on a short journey. Left car for about four hours and tried driving. Engine light on after about a hundred feet and will not go out. Tried after car cooled but light still on. No codes coming up and cannot clear light by disconnecting battery. Getting annoying not knowing where to look for problem.

Just a quick update on this one. Hands up I didn't put the car in neutral when trying to lift codes (doh!) Once in neutral the codes 21 and 28 came up indicating O2 sensors. In a different post I asked about exhaust gaskets which I hope is throwing up the codes and limp home. Going to fit the gaskets I got from main dealer and see what happens, but I have noticed part of both front pipe flanges have corroded a bit so have bought some fire proof silicone good up to 1200 degrees C. Fingers crossed will let you know.

Thanks for the heads up on that Steve will check on my day off Thursday. Malc the car went into limp home mode after about a mile this morning on the way to work (about three and a half miles). No engine lights on the way home will see what happens tomorrow lol.

Hi again The saga continues. Went to the car this morning and it started no problem, no engine light but did not idle. Came to the first junction and it idled spot on. Drove perfect with no light all the way to work. Came home and ran a treat with no engine light Hmmmmmmmm?