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Jaystar77

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Everything posted by Jaystar77

  1. You could opt one of those convertible Evoque things. Only ever seen them in pics though, probably as questionable as the T-roc convertible that VW offer. Closest you would get on the RX would be a panoramic sunroof I think? The gen2 Harriers had a funky triple sunroof too:
  2. Sorry to drag up an old thread but I've noticed my PAS not working and noisy for a few seconds after cold starts recently. Had a dig at it yesterday and it looks like the PAS pipe that runs down the drivers side chassis leg has corroded through and is porous. Going by the fluid gathered on the undertrays it's probably been an issue for a while. Has anyone replaced this? Looks like it could be a bit awkward for access. Also I think it's number 44416 in this diagram: LEXUS RX300 330 350GSU35R-AWAGKW - POWERTRAIN-CHASSIS - POWER STEERING TUBE | Japan Parts EU (japan-parts.eu) Is anyone able to confirm for sure? Many thanks again, Jay
  3. Hi Saad, sorry to hear of the hassles, unfortunately they need a bit of TLC as time marches on! I noticed my old gen1 2002 (same colour as yours in fact) has a bit of fluid around the drivers side rear shock so figured a set of rears were on the horizon. Just so as you know, it's good mechanical practice to replace shocks on the same axle in pairs (ie both front or both rears) in case you leave the vehicle unbalanced left/right. Just out of interest I priced up a full set of all four with Autodoc and they were very reasonable at around £60-80 a corner for Monroe/KYB/Bilstein. Obviously top mounts and various bushes will be on top of that but I didn't think it was too bad. There seems to be cheaper units too but I thought sticking with a known brand name would be sensible. If your mechanic is happy to fit supplied parts it might save a few quid.
  4. There's nothing quite like a bit of rust-proofing lol My axle stands, trolley jack and garage floor aren't going to rust too much after the last messy session 😆 One thing to add if you haven't already blasted it is the fuel filler pipe to the tank. Not sure if it is metal or plastic on the IS but will be a common issue on a few models once they get older. Well worth tackling now, even if you don't keep the car - at least you're doing a good turn for the next few owners!
  5. I think we're all on the same page here - garages like to recommend stuff that they can charge for, especially when the science justifies it - poor operation of the system can cause the issues they are looking for - by sensible system usage you can avoid such issues for quite a long time
  6. Depends on usage but maintaining your aircon system is definitely a 'thing'. The lubricant in the system keeps the seals in good condition but this only gets circulated when the aircon is switched on. If the aircon is not used the lubricant lies dormant and the likelihood of the seals drying out and developing leaks increases. This is why there's a recommendation to use the aircon periodically even over the winter months, just to keep things tip top. The stipulation of 2 years for recharging is commonplace across numerous manufacturers. A drop in pressure over those two years is usually expected but it also allows actual seal failures to be picked up well inside the warranty period - if they check it and there's been a significant loss of gas that points to a problem and can be addressed. I've been quite fortunate like Herbie in that I haven't needed to recharge mine for yonks but I know other people that haven't been so lucky. Standard story of aircon not used for 6 months then as soon as the warmer weather hits they have issues. If you can avoid that sort of pattern it should be fine.
  7. Just got my wrecked RX back on the road at last so can update with a decent pic of the lip for future reference: A bit of not-so-cheap plastic but it helps against all the black I think.
  8. Good advice from John again 🙂 I've spent the weekend tackling front and rear brakes on my RX that's only a handful of years behind yours Piers and have already accepted I will have similar fun. It's an unfortunate fact that cars are only designed to last a limited lifespan, my own is over 16 years old so well beyond anything that was specced on that life cycle. I figure it's best to accept that metal rusts regardless the supplier (you should see some of the VAG cars I've had to deal with) and deal with it best you can. It would be a shame to scrap a car that's economically repairable, especially one that has served you so well! If anyone wants me I'll be in the shed playing with Lanoguard 😉
  9. Terrible news ☹️ I'm on the hunt for a complete filler pipe as the large pipe will got eventually. Looks awkward to replace so dreading it! If only they could last forever eh?
  10. You may have jinxed me Piers - I had to tackle this issue yesterday on our gen1. Turned out not too bad as it was only the small line on the filler pipe that had rusted through. I had some suitable fuel line to replace the corroded metal part so was able to route it through the original path without removing too many bits (PSR wheel, mudflap and loosened the arch liner for access just). How have you got on?
  11. Just following up on this. Seems I've been tackling a few multiple issues all in the one go.. Symptoms: Poor performance, starting issues, engine warning lamps, starting issues Checked the plugs first to find signs of over fueling and noticed there were cracks on the sides of the ignition coils so they got replaced. Performance improved but EML back on. OBD2 reader gave me a P0171 code. On visual inspection a lot of the exhaust was rotten. Every time I patched one hole another appeared. Finally got most of them patched but this led to a P0174 code which signals a lean condition. Figured I'd order fuel pump and filter whilst it was away for the exhaust work. Custom stainless system sorted the exhaust leaks, fitted a new universal post cat sensor whilst we were there. On return I replaced the fuel filter and pump because I was overthinking things (see initial post). Pretty sure it was just the exhaust but everything else was done because I was in the area and wanted to leave it 100% Theory is that the post cat sensor was seeing misleading readings because of the exhaust leaks and the ECU was throwing too much fuel in. An oil and filter change seemed to support this as there were signs of oil dilution in the old oil. Left me with the starting issue though. And no fault codes. Figured it was the coolant temp sensor as I've seen them go before in the past. Seems that hunch was correct. These going faulty also can cause overfueling so I was happy to swap it out for a new one. Have playtested it for a week and besides a little modification of the new exhaust all seems sweet again. Yesterday I noticed that the fuel filler neck (which I'd taken care to check for leaks about a month ago) had decided to start leaking. Honestly don't think it featured in the whole kerfuffle as I had kept inspecting the lines and fuel tank the whole way through thinking they looked a bit suspect. Sorry for the saga but thought it worth sharing. Rust is definitely catching up with the old wagon 😣
  12. Only one thing to do - investigate. Thankfully the ride height will make this easier with a RX. I've seen fuel tanks go porous, fuel lines break and fuel fillers rust through so it could be any or all. Just be careful that it isn't leaking when the vehicle is running as that has obvious safety issues! EDIT noticed you mention when filling up, the filler neck is probably the culprit.
  13. I understand but my main query is should the pump lift fuel from both sides of the fuel tank equally? If so then I might have found my issue.
  14. Oh and all injectors are ticking away nicely, doesn't seem like any are misbehaving. Appreciate the assistance!
  15. Yes I'm getting a stuttering/hesitation that reminds me of fuel starvation so the theory sort of fits. I follow your thinking with the fault codes, strange that it's only getting a P0174 (before I fixed the exhaust leaks I was seeing a P0171 as well). Just trying to get the fuel pump operation straight in my head as what I found seemed really odd - should the pump lift from both 'sides' of the tank equally or does it drain the drivers side first then lift from the passenger side?
  16. Hi folks, Been a wee while since I've hit any problems but here goes.. 2002 RX300 (MCU15) with a reoccurring P0174 fault code (mixture lean) which I can't seem to nail down. Have worked through the list of stuff and fixed a few issues (iffy looking coils and some exhaust leaks) so it was time to remove and inspect the fuel pump in the tank this morning. Removed rear seat and both the main pump on the drivers side and the level sender on the passenger side. Couldn't see anything visually wrong, fuels clean and I swapped in a fresh filter sock however I did notice the fuel level on one side of the tank was a lot lower than the other - the passenger side was practically empty. It's as if the pump is only lifting from that side and what I'm getting is actually fuel starvation. Does that sound plausible or does the pump only empty one side of the tank first? I pumped fuel from the driverside across and roadtested to find it's behaving itself again but I just wanted to bounce it off someone with actual knowledge! Planning to order a pump anyway as it'll do no harm on a 20 year old machine. Thank you for any light that can be shed!
  17. That looks stunning, health to drive 🙂 You might also find it will have the 112mph limiter that most JDM imports have. I've never found a need to remove the limiter on my imports but worth stating it's there. Hope you gel with the power delivery, comparing to turbocharged engines is difficult as you get used to the 'bang' of power. Naturally aspirated engines are a tad more refined. To ease your mind a dyno run should reveal any power losses.
  18. I can see the reasoning and the push towards co-operation on the roads. Quick question - so does a lot of this not depend on how aware the cyclist is of the approaching traffic behind them? Does that lead into the requirement of mirrors perchance?
  19. I import car parts from Japan regularly and customs charges are to be expected. Usually works out around 20-25% on top of the total (parts plus the shipping costs). Occasionally something will slide through but it is a rarity. The likes of Parcelforce will ask for the customs before delivery but some couriers (for example Fedex) will deliver then send out the bill afterwards.
  20. Yeah, common enough on older Toyota and Lexus vehicles, my Rav4's were shocking. This hopefully should give you an idea of how she's put together: LEXUS RX400HMHU38R-AWXGKW - BODY - FUEL TANK TUBE | Japan Parts EU (japan-parts.eu)
  21. Yes, already picked up a poverty spec unit instead of the fancy-pants unit I need 😄 Hopefully get something sorted before the big lad with the sleigh gets involved!
  22. Thanks Piers. Tried both without much joy. I'm hoping the RX300 gas discharge lamps are the same to make things a touch easier.
  23. Hey folks, In need of assistance again.. I picked up a passenger side headlamp to fix my 2006 RX350 and it turns out it's a regular halogen unit instead of the fancy gas discharge one that I need. If anyone has one or even an idea of where to look I would appreciate it. Many thanks, Jay
  24. Reassuring experiences. I'll be repairing my RX that's lay damaged since May 19 shortly and I'm hoping it's not the ordeal it should be!
  25. Well worth doing, found this in my Caldina : Shouldn't be too much from Lexus or a local motorfactor (or even shop online for one).
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