Jaystar77

Looks like this is the closest thread I could find on the topic, fitted Toyota Harrier skirts and front lip to the olde sofa on wheels yesterday.  

Actually like it more than I thought I would!

Thanks for the reply Colin.

Yes, I've already tried to go the exhaust specialist route and wanted to go back to a more standard affair.

Probably points more towards the workmanship than anything but had nothing but exhaust leaks and sensor issues since so yearning for how things used to be.  

Spotted a Canadian listing on eBay for what I'm looking but shipping and taxes are going to sting:

Complete Exhaust System Fits 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 Lexus RX300 3.0L Fast Ship | eBay

Was just checking in case I've missed a more obvious supplier in the UK.

Just say I'm looking a full exhaust system for an old 1MZFE, any pointers on where to source the whole heap new?

I know Lexus themselves will be extortionate so guessing aftermarket pattern parts are the go-to but has anyone had good dealings with particular companies in the UK for stuff?

Really don't want to let the old girl go but it's on the horizon. 

Surplus to requirements, was removed due to the lacquer deciding to leave the chat. 

Current condition in pics:

Pic when fitted:

Rare to find these but needs a respray so priced accordingly at £80.

Collection from BT221EP or can post at buyers expense.

Thanks for any interest!

Owned one for years now, it's still used by my mum who adores it.

A very relaxing drive, a lot more comfortable than most, proper armchair on wheels.  Good load lugger, plenty of room with the seats down.  Had to patch a sill last year, brake calipers can give jip and the exhaust rusted off it but pound for pound one of the best buys I've made.

Thirsty big brute though but I can hardly talk 😄

Bought these via Autodoc and messed up by not double checking the part numbers.

These are a set of Bilstein rear shock absorbers to suit a 2002 Toyota Harrier X10, as I've found out the rear hubs are different to the UK models and so the shocks mount a bit lower down.  

Links to product pages here:

22-228123 BILSTEIN - B4 OE Replacement Shock Absorber Rear Axle Right, Gas Pressure, Twin-Tube, Suspension Strut, Top pin, Bottom Clamp for Lexus RX MCU15 ▷ AUTODOC price and review

22-228123 BILSTEIN - B4 OE Replacement Shock Absorber Rear Axle Right, Gas Pressure, Twin-Tube, Suspension Strut, Top pin, Bottom Clamp for Lexus RX MCU15 ▷ AUTODOC price and review

Pics of actual items:

I'd given them a spray of Dynax UC for protection before realising they were incorrect so pretty much new with zero miles on them. 

Just looking a bit back on the cost at this stage to ease the embarrassment. 

£160 plus post or local pickup (NI)

Literally did this yesterday on my old RX300.

I just drained the system, unbolted it, cleaned/dried everything, fresh silicone applied then bolted it back up.

Left it overnight before filling the system again just to be safe but all seems good.

Thanks for confirming Matt, we need dual reading for MOT in Northern Ireland so it's something to factor in.  The ODB2 port is a solid solution.

Can't seem to find the pics of my waterleak adventures, will have a look under the wagon tomorrow weather permitting of course 🙂

Can echo what Nick is saying there.

Have used different brands over a few cars now and always seem to come back to the Bilt Hamber stuff.  Used Dynax UC on Wednesday night in fact after installing some suspension.

No matter which you choose I would factor in an inspection every year or so just to touch up any signs of corrosion that might crop up.  

The two at the back are tricky to get at.  

I'm guessing you are looking to make sure they are clear with some strimmer wire?

If so, I found the two exit drains under the car and pushed the wire in from that end.  Just seem easier at the time!  

Looks fantastic in pearl white.

Just out of curiousity, do these display speed in kmph only or is there dual reading to get mph as well?

Hi there,

A few years back I got that weird revving on mine but I got a fault code for one of the sensors on the air intake (we're going on hazy memory here) that cleared once I cleaned it with some carb cleaner.

Probably not your issue but that revving reminded me of it.   

Thank you Jonathan, that's the sort of wizardry I was hoping for.

I'll give that a whirl before getting the spanners out and report back 🙂

Great pics Nigel. 

Rare to see a Blit in the UK.  Those Crown estates are so tempting, I've a Caldina currently and an estate is just so practical.  

Thanks for the reply Colin, I was quite careful but I'll probably have to retrace my steps in case hamfistedness has played a part!

Did try a few Battery resets but no dice, will update once I've investigated a bit further.

Hi folks,

I seem to have caused a bit of an issue after replacing the fuel filter (in tank) on my 2002 RX300.

Since replacement the fuel gauge has a mind of it's own, not a big issue as it seems to read less than the real fuel level but still irritating.   

Is there a reset procedure for the fuel gauge?  Did a search and there's mention of one but no actual details.  

As ever, thanks for any guidance!

Fairly certain the timing is adjusted with these sorts of ECU, to what extent I'm not sure but here's the advertising blurb from Japan on a SARD ECU I have in one of my Starlets:

Analyse is an ECU set to provide alteration of high boost & rev control at high speed driving, and provides accurate engine control in various conditions, such as partial range, street driving, and engine idling.



Resetting items of Analyse:

Fuel map resetting.
Ignition map resetting.
Rev limiter resetting.
Speed limiter cancellation.
Boost limiter cancellation.
It's strongly required to use high-octane gasoline after the replacement of ECU (in Japan "high-octane gasoline" values is 100~101%.



* When ordering Analyse, it is required to inform the serial number of your factory standard computer unit. Regardless of minor changes, the serial number of the factory standard computer may be modified. It is very important that buyer inform us the serial number on the factory standard ECU actually mounted on your vehicle helps to prevents unnecessary trouble.

Listed are the trade in prices of the factory ECU meaning you are required to send us your factory ECU for Sard re-writing the ECU data.

You may contact us for vehicles not listed here in the application chart. Sard is ready with analyzed computers for many different vehicles. Sard will be able to modify your factory computer data. (Note that certain vehicles cannot be modified)"

I have dealt with a few other aftermarket versions from Blitz, Mines and JAM in the past which are just a variation on the above mentioning the same advantages.  TOMS did produce a Starlet unit but I've never got my hands on one unfortunately.

Hope that helps!

Both really cool additions 😎

I've dabbled with similar units on other cars in the past (mostly Starlet turbos) and they certainly do make a difference.

Usual features are a raised RPM limited, removed speed cut limiter and a more aggressive map.  Most that I've tested show quite rich on the wideband, just figured they were throwing extra fuel in to accommodate the extra power (or safeguard against knock).

Great finds!

Hi Mark, I tackled this on mine back when I got it.  Turned out the majority of the water was those body seams mentioned in that video.

Didn't take too long to sus it out as you can plaster some sealer over them without too much drama and retest when it cures.

Worth a punt!

EDIT: quick link 

I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to apply Piers.  Longevity wise, it seems to be holding up fine on my caldina that I sprayed over the summer, was able to give it a look prepping for MOT this week.  The winter weather over the next few months is usually the real test though!

That being said the Bilt Hamber Dynax spray tin is a good option too. The only disadvantage is that the application straw and tin is a bit harder to get into position in some areas. If you chose the clear version it dries to a nice matt finish that you can see through.  

That's true, have used the bitumen product which messy and takes a lot of prep as well as the more modern alternatives.  

The Bilt Hamber range has a lot of very effective products if you want to dive deep into it, I used them on my more cherished cars with sound results however for ease of application the Lanoguard was really simple.  Just needs a respray every year but as application is quick you could treat it as part of the annual check over.  Heard good things about Dinotrol and POR15 but never sampled them.  Would be interested to hear how others rate them.

From what I've seen on my own 2006 RX I'd recommend treating it as soon as you can, wish I'd done mine sooner! 

Tackled one recently on my RX350, as you say, can't really argue too much as it's not a huge failure and the car is getting on a bit.

Hopefully that's all your drama over for another ten years! 🙂 

On 7/10/2022 at 10:34 AM, Haylands said:

It's a bit difficult confirming that that is the correct pipe that is leaking on yours, as you are the only one that has seen it...!!

Unfortunately access is tight and the diagram isn't great Peter. 

Thought someone may have encountered the pipe on the drivers side chassis leg rusting before so figured I'd ask before I get balls deep in power steering fluid 😄

Because I can see the porous metal I'd prefer to replace it rather than add treatment, don't fancy pushing the problem down the road as it were.

Will update if/when I get an answer!

Obviously not going to be suitable for yourself but when my RX got crashed into I bought an imported Toyota Estate as a stand-in (Caldina).  Was really hard to drive what I classed as a regular car again (normal ride height meant I didn't have that commanding driving position any more) and there was a marked difference in fit and finish.  Now the RX is back on the road I'm jumping between both just because I can see each has it's merits.

Not sure if I could choose between them but that points to how good the import is, the RX was the perfect all-rounder for a long time!