Craignaneun

So needless to say, replacing the O2 sensor didn't make any difference. So DPF coming out to be manually cleaned. Here's hoping this doesn't turn into one of these marathon & expensive sagas....

Update So I've put the car to the local garage with a proper diagnostic machine. The code it spits out is: "P2002 NOx separator efficiency lower than threshold (bank 1)". The garage are saying that the O2 Lambda sensor needs changing (part 89467B) and Lexus are quoting £625 + vat. I've ordered an original Toyota part (89467-53010) from eBay for £110 but it won't arrive until Monday. One other thing: the DPF was checked and isn't full. Appreciate any thoughts as the feeling I get is that there's not a 100% confidence that this will cure the problem. Scott

Hi, Original poster here; OBD received and fault code(s) interrogated as follows: P2002 (fault & pending). When I clear the fault the car runs ok for about a mile and then engine dash & anti-skid lights come on and then next time you change gear the car goes into limp mode. Worth also saying that the car is really hesitant in low revs after the fault has been cleared. Looking at google this appears to be DPF related? If so what's the recommended next step please? Scott

Thanks, I'll report back once I have the OBD - probably Thursday.

Good evening everyone, My 2010 220d (75k miles) went into limp mode yesterday but strangely only the engine warning light and the wheel spin/skid indicator lights are on and there is no 'Check VSC' warning message in the display. This is my 2nd 220d so I'm used to the 'Check VSC' warning and the three warning lights but this is different. Anyway, switching off the car clears the limp mode but not the two warning lights and the limp mode returns within a mile or so. I've ordered an OBD reader but don't have it yet. Worth saying that today I stripped the EGR value and cleaned, etc. The car runs better but still goes into limp mode with the two warning lights even after the EGR was cleaned. Any thoughts very much appreciated. Scott

Hi, I have a 2010 F-Sport IS220d, 75,000 miles. I've noticed that there's a noise coming from the engine in sync with the engine revs/acceleration. The best way I can describe this noise is that when I first noticed it I was initially looking in my mirrors for a police car or ambulance with siren on. It's not loud, just background noise.....but very defined....like the rise in tone of a siren. My intuition (for what it's worth) says turbo but the noise starts at low revs when the engine is very unresponsive. Any thoughts very much appreciated. Scott

Hi, By way of background I have a 2007 IS220d with 180,000 miles which I've had for 11 years and which refuses to give up. That said, recently I've been getting fumes entering the passenger compartment - mainly just when stopped in traffic. I kinda thought it was an injector seal because I've already done two of these however on having a look this evening it's not a seal. So I've taken a video which I've attached and any thoughts very welcome. Worth saying I can't see anything from below the car when it's on the ramp. Video attached below. Thanks in advance, Scott IMG_8710.MOV

Chris, Thanks for the diagram. I'm coming to the conclusion that the arrangement I have is completely wrong for a number of reasons. Firstly the springs do exactly the opposite of what you've said, i.e. they stop the pad moving towards the rotor. Also, the springs I have are completely different to those shown on the diagram you kindly provided. And lastly I can't find anything similar for sale. All kits/springs are as per this ebay listing: https://bit.ly/2ZVGZoz which shows springs similar to your diagram and not what I have (wish I'd taken a picture of the springs). Anyway I tried refitting but one of the springs broke and frankly the other is not doing anything. So I'm planning to buy the above kit and install and see how it goes. Cheers, Scott

Thanks Chris, So, if I understand correctly, the springs I have are correct and they do pass through the same hole in the pad as the pins. But....the pins have been installed the wrong way round? The reason I say that is that it wouldn't be possible to drive them into the pad after installing the way they are now, i.e. fitted from the rear facing out. Thanks, Scott

Hi, Hoping someone can help me as I'm going nuts here.... I have a 2010 IS220d F-Sport. Only had it 3 months and found the rear calipers were seized so this evening started to fit new pads and discs and new slider pins/seals. All went to plan until I'm reassembling the pads and in particular the retaining springs. I'm attaching a few photos of before I disassembled but the spring(s) that stop the pins moving are baffling me. They pass through the same holes as the main pins - worth saying also that the pins are fitted from the inside facing out. Now when I look on various videos online these springs are completely different and the retaining pins are fitted from the outside facing in. The wheels are 18" and the calipers are stamped R18 (if that makes any difference). So, I'm wondering first: are these springs correct - they just don't seem right. I've tried to refit them but they're impossible. Worth also saying that they are fitted slightly differently on either side. Anyway, three pictures attached and hoping someone can help me here. Cheers, Scott

Good evening Everyone, I recently bought a '10 plate F-Sport IS220d. I popped it into Lexus Twickenham for a health check and one item that came back was: "Rear diff mount split 1.5hrs (the left one in the subframe) - Required" Cost £350. I wondered if anyone could help with part number here. And any experience of changeout? I do have access to a ramp or can get it done independently if I have the part details. Final question, is it worth doing the other(s) whilst I'm at it? Thanks in advance as always, Scott

Thanks Steve, Got the connectors off ok - just needed a bit of brute force which I wasn't comfortable with before seeing the video you posted. Not sure about being able to remove the battery without removing the ECU. There are 2x securing bolts beneath the ECU which need to be removed before the tray lifts out. But all pretty easy. Thanks again. Scott

Thank you Texas, Very useful diagram and yes, don't want to be messing up.....hence my question. So I've marked up what I trying to do and hopping someone can advise on the removal of the connectors so that I can remove the battery base. Cheers, Scott

Evening everyone, You can tell it's new car maintenance day....🙄 I'm trying to fit a new battery clamp as there wasn't one on the car when I bought it. But I can't attach the forward rod to its mounting under the battery tray. So I want to remove the battery tray. Seems pretty straight forward other than the two big electrical connectors (see pictures). I've levered up the little locking tabs (I think) that are on connectors but I just can't get the connectors to move. I'm not trying too hard yet but wondered if anyone knew how these disconnect these just in case I break them. It looks as though they just lever up and the connectors are backed off. Thanks in advance, Scott

Having played a bit with the value I thought I'd just close this post out. I ended up giving the end of the valve stem a tap with a bit of wood and a mallet (so the rod running through the assemble that the little valves are mounted). After a few knocks the valves seemed to be sitting ok and so more erg cleaner and pushing the valve assembly in & out it seems fine. Not to say that it won't need replacing at some point but it seems fine now. Scott

Thanks Steve, I suspect you're right. Is is possible/wise to dismantle the valve. Presumably the cap over the spring in the attached picture comes off but does this allow the vmechanism to be dismantled? Scott

Hi, I'm hoping someone can help. I recently bought a IS220d F Sport (2010) to replace my '07 IS220d with 175k miles. The new car felt sluggish at low revs so I thought ok, ERG valve.....which I've cleaned I's say 3x previously on the old car. Sure enough, the valve is clogged with soot - worst I've seen (car has 68k so I suspect never done). However now that I've cleaned the assembly I've noticed something that doesn't seem right. The valves are not sitting in their seats on the body of the housing. It's as if the valve mechanism is not retracting fully. This presumable allows gases to pass through the valve constantly. I'm attaching a couple of pictures which hopefully show what I'm probably describing very poorly. Any thoughts very welcome. Scott

Hi Andrew, That's exactly it. Maybe I should have been clearer in my original post but yes, this is located at the rear of the car. If you're able to find a part number that would be terrific. Scott

Thank you John, Steve. I'll remove the part and report back as it seems to be very unclear what this is. Scott

Hi, I have a '07 IS220d that has developed a chronic fuel leak. It only leaks when the engine is running & therefore when fuel is being pumped through the fuel system. The part that is leaking is shown on the attached picture (highlighted) - it's not the hoses, the entire body is leaking and therefore this part needs to be replaced. There's a 2-way electrical connection in addition to the three fuel lines so it seems like some form of solenoid value? The fuel filter can be seen (I think) just below and slightly to the right on the picture. I'm struggling to find what this is - I had a chat with the local Toyota dealer (parts dept) but they were as good as useless. So, any help very much appreciated. Cheers, Scott

Firstly thank you Dave, very much appreciated. They're on order. To answer the questions regarding re-use of the pin, well.......it broke. Bit of a long story but, car idle for 6 months whilst abroad. Three out of the 4 calipers siezed. Got pins out of all but one (typical) which just refused to come. As a last resort I tried tweaking the nut at the end of the pin but broke the pin (I know, I know....)! So I drilled a small hole in line with the pin at the opposite end of the caliper and pressed out the pin. I'll tap & cap the hole and replace the entire caliper when I'm able to. Final thing, thanks for the help & assistance. Great resource. Scott

Hi, I wondered if anyone can help regarding finding a replacement front caliper sliding pin set for a 2007 IS220d. The Lexus part is ca. £40 but various suppliers (Frentech UK, Brakeparts.co.uk, etc.) have kits for most cars at a fraction of the cost but nothing listed for the IS MkII. The kit for the IS200 is £10 & I'd like to do both front calipers so the saving is not insignificant. Also, I found the small inner bush (for the upper? pin) on ebay & it's listed for IS, GS plus Toyota Avensis, Previa, etc. So I'm wondering if the pins for these other models would do? Any help very much appreciated. S