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Everything posted by chr15gb
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I won't defend the amazon blueprint one but it fits and has survived a few decent trips. I was just about to get rid of the car but after being offered £1,800 in part ex I decided to go home and think about it for the evening. Between leaving the dealer at 5pm and calling them back the following morning someone had bought the one I was looking at online without viewing. Looks like I'll keep the is250 for a little while longer.
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I heard a weird rattle when idling which seemed to be coming from that housing beneath the radiator cap. Took it off and saw this. All the gubbins had fell inside that chamber. I tried to remove the Thermostat but my goodness, that bottom bolt is a swine to reach as there is a hose in the way. Without a third arm, I gave up and removed the pipe on the right hand side Got the pin out The next part was properly wedged inside Got it out after an age of swearing and jabbing Replacement cost #10 from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B8YUASE?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details You can see the brown waxy type substance which split on both the cap and the bit between the spring and pin. I gess just age, 2008 car with 136,000 miles. Now I'm concerned that some of that waxy stuff has wandered off into the coolant system, no doubt to find a nice place to block coolant flow. I'd still like to remove the thermostat as that seems a likely place for anything to drop into.
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Probably nothing but as you are waiting for an adaptor, may as well check easy things. This happened straight after an air filter change so check the MAF sensor has been reconnected. If is it, disconnect it and see what happens. I'd also be inclined to open the air filter box and re-seat it in case it hasnt been properly sealed. If the MAF isn't working correctly, it will cause an erratic idle (and give a warning). On BMW, if you disconnect the MAF completely, the car uses a default value of air so whilst it doesn't run correctly, would result in a stable idle speed. I have no idea if Lexus is the same but worth a shot, it costs nothing and takes minutes.
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Squeal at high revs
chr15gb replied to chr15gb's topic in Lexus IS 250 / Lexus IS 250C Club / Lexus IS 220D & IS 200D Club
Thanks guys. I bled the brakes a bit more but the pedal travel is still too far. I'm thinking Master Cylinder or Servo. He has only had the car 6 months or so so I''ll cut some slack on the maintenance. Bad exhaust rattle on start up, sounds like the front section isn't secured as the sound comes fron the rear of the engine underneath. Wish this had happened going into Summer instead of Winter! Taking a good look at the old plugs, you can see the crush washer hasn't been crushed at all. No idea who fittedf them (but at least the previous owner tried). Need to get to the others just in case they are the same. Car is gone now until they come back to mine. I hate taking tools down to them and trying to work at theirs, I'm always missing something I have in my garage. -
Squeal at high revs
chr15gb replied to chr15gb's topic in Lexus IS 250 / Lexus IS 250C Club / Lexus IS 220D & IS 200D Club
Youngsters for you, kids are scared to death of opening the bonnet these days. I've never bled brakes with the engine running. May give that a go next time. -
A relative left their car at mine for a few days so I said I'd have a quick look over it, IS250 2005 plate. It had a new exhaust and it sounds horrid, almost like a diesel. No comparison to mine at all. The brakes are shocking, I've bled them but the pedal still goes too far, perhaps I should've bled for longer. It has had a new rear caliper. I was going to replace the spark plugs, did the first easy three then the heavans opened so no chance to do the difficult three. They will be taking the car home first thing tomorrow so that will have to wait. One of the spark plugs was loose, oil all over it. It wasn't even finger tight. The car was low on oil so I topped that up and took it up the road and back. Seemed okay aside from the brake pedal. Brakes work ookay but I don't like the travel. Switched it to flappy pedal and booted it, holy moly, a hideous high pitched mechanical scrapy belt about to give up type noise. Only at high revs 4k plus. I'm thinking this is the water pump about to go belly up. Anyone experienced similar? I didn't record the noise and I'm not going to repeat it just in case it gives up on me. I polished the headlights up as best I could given the weather and wiped down the interior to freshen it all up. I'll be planning all four brakes to clean, grese the slide pins and longer bleed, the other three spark plugs, cabin filter and whatever else I can find. There wasn't even a single plastic clip on any of the engine covers so I've donated a few of mine.
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One on ebay for £85 heated and cooled. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402993007139?hash=item5dd4414a23:g:EFYAAOSwzHBg7wzB&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoOfgPD5VbUKpkJoB1ApEe5IfucpAtfC9GALacC2J3SGz%2B7%2BU8d9oRPKYh3gfQTRhb1gnqVog4jdnC7QSCpLnEqGrrT0heC0Ydot3gDjNLSzCP915XO1L1Irv8gR46i2oqKL9m5RsCBInzUd0%2Fmg6TzXN%2FWwYCcIrLzQ%2F6tJbEcNzfAlrNZNYJMEyoo4MtUBa1tFIT7tcjS48BSwKmccQcuM%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-Dnj8bhYA
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I've already got the ML, Satnav and the rest but reading posts like this makes me want to tear it all out and upgrade to something like this. Shame they aren't truly plug & Play utilising existing mic, GPS and reverse camera, or parhaps not a shame as otherwise I would do it. Great work all you guys who have taken the plunge, appreciate your time in posting.
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A few years ago I bought an updated Satnav disk off Ebay. Seemed to work at first but after a while I noticed I had lost all Voice functions, the steering wheel button beeped after pressing it but nothing would happen. I also lost all those buttons around the edge too. None of them would do anything. I've no doubt from my experience there is a relationship between the screen and those buttons, they must all feed the same ECU. In my case, all I had to do was replace the Satnav disk with the original, disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes, reconnect and it all came back.
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Rear legroom bothers me more than it should considering there is only two of us. Boot I don't find too bad, I can get my electric bike in when folded in half, with the seat removed and handlebars lifted out and folded over...just! I was toying with replacing the IS2050 with a GS450H, a much larger car but from what I can tell, a boot 10cm shorter than the 250, which would prevent me taking my bike.
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Ownership Costs
chr15gb replied to Ozzay's topic in Lexus IS 250 / Lexus IS 250C Club / Lexus IS 220D & IS 200D Club
Looks like a good testament to the reliability of these cars. Sliding pins aside, that is simply the cost of running a car for 10k miles whilst keeping it well maintained. Compare that to my old BMW 530D of a similar age (a small sample of the memorable bits). Turbo - £1,700 Cracked Exhaust Manifold - £1,100 (replacement cracked also which is when I got shot of the car) Pretty much every suspension component in successive years, about £800 Parking Sensors x4 Bluetooth module (got through three of these, accepting they were old ebay replacements and an age learning how to code) Thermostats x 2 Glowplug conroller EGR replacement due to split diaphragm The turbo, manifold and suspension were done by garages, the rest DIY on my drive. Then add your list above for general maintenance, oils, brakes, tyres etc. The BMW was a fantastic car to drive, the IS250 is very pedestrian compared to the BMW but BMW are simply money pits. I can't describe the diagnostic time which goes into the BMW before buying and fitting the correct replacement parts. -
I reused my old ones, they looked fine. It is a bit of a punt, i.e if you assume the old ones are good but they aren't, can you leave it undressed until you get some or will you have to reassemble it all then take it apart again to replace? I changed mine at about 90k, no evidence they had ever been changed before but both the plugs looked fine and the seals looked fine
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I used AutoGlass some time ago who replaced the trims. He even came back the next day to replace one as he chipped the corner off during fitting (cheap aftermarket I assume). The fitter had problems with the bottom offside corner, still doesn't look perfect now but he did what he could and it isn't noticeable. I happened to have my camera with me whilst working from home so took a timelapse, for no reason other than I've never tried to do a timelapse. Windscreen2.mp4
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Agree with all the above, that piston needs to go a lot further back. Use one of the old pads to protect the piston face when using a G-Clamp. Watch this video to see how far the piston retracts and at the 6 min 14 second mark, the caliper should slide across easily enough by hand assuming the slide pins are free as they should be.
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I had both my dashcam and a USB C pohone cradle wireless charger in the front cigarette lighter. It didn't pop fuses but the dashcam would reboot and the powered arms on the cradle would keep moving in and out, the socket couldn't deliver enough power for both. Easiest and quickest way to solve it was to simply move one to the cigarette lighter in the arm rest. The dashcam wire was long enough. With a flush USB adaptor like this, the lid doesn't foul the cable I do have a proper fused permanent cable in the garage but one of those jobs I never seem to get around to fitting.