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About dandreye

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  1. Apparently there's a sticker atop it with the manufacture date in DDMMYY format. After a week of monitoring the self discharge rate of mine following a full charge (also 10yrs old) I can see it stabilize at ~0.01-0.015V a day, which is 0.08-0.12%. Assuming it's more or less healthy is there an easy way to measure its residual capacity now? E.g. is attaching a load with a known amp draw and watching how long it lasts on it going to stress the battery too bad?
  2. Many thanks ColinBarber! Wow that's great: looks like it's done almost 10yrs of service.
  3. You're right but there's also the other side of it: the higher the charging current the worse it is for the battery long term. Even though the current "equal" to 10% of the battery capacity is generally considered OK, using a fraction of that current is even better (time permitting of course). So it looks to me like too long charging time is the only real downside of those small chargers vs those like 5.0. Fortunately I'm in no rush to charge my backup battery. In fact I bought that charger for a very different purpose: I keep it permanently connected to my boat battery for about half a year i
  4. I guess yet another company actually makes them all (both C-TEK MXS and Yuasa YCX) and just brands them differently 🙂 Meanwhile my old HJ-S46B24R battery has spent >24hrs on YCX0.8 so far, almost all of those hours with just 2 LEDs on, hence at the full current (0.8A), so it must've eaten ~20Ah multiplied by some absorption % by now. Didn't expect it to be that discharged as 12.3V is ~70% charged... will keep watching it further.
  5. Poundy: that's a Yuasa charger's comfort lead judging by the photo, isn't it? Exactly same looking one came with mine (YCX 0.8) and it was only recently that I discovered the benefit of these comfort leads. Might use it here too: good idea.
  6. Herbie: I'll then blow into one of them to be sure. Barry14UK: It'll be nice to check 12v battery charging history but I don't know how to yet: will look for it with TechStream next time. Meanwhile I'm charging the old one at home and unless it loses charge again quickly afterwards as it recently did during the cold weather I'll keep it as backup and connect in parallel to the new one to aid it whenever going away, effectively doubling capacity.
  7. Battery swap for Yuasa YBX5057 has been successfully completed with just one nuisance: the vent hose plug didn't fit in. Apparently the YBX5057 has 2 smaller ports (ID=6mm, one at each side) while the stock one has a single large one at the side near the "+". Do I get it right that using even one of them will do? If so I'll connect the near one to the vent hose through an adapter, leaving the plug in the other one facing the body.
  8. Hi All, New Yuasa has turned up in just 2 days since ordering (had to go for YBX5057 as 5053 had + and - swapped around vs the original one). Just wondering if I can connect the new one to the old one in parallel with temporary wires while swapping them in an attempt to preserve various settings? (clock etc) I'd do exactly that w/o hesitation in an ordinary car but am worried here because of all its smart electronics. Thanks in advance!
  9. I did exact same thing in my boat and went for a 75Ah Ca-Ca battery for my ~2000 90hp Mercury 2-stroke instead of a 50 or a 55Ah one that it came with (some capacity restrictions imposed by its rather underdeveloped voltage regulator / charger that I hardly remember in detail prevented me from going any higher. Extra capacity translates into a better safety margin when out there far away from the shore and may even save lives one day. The only problem is keeping it fully charged at all times (naturally from the motor implied). Wrt the clamp meter, when seeing it measure that circuit w/o
  10. Update: just started the CT200h on the same battery at the very 1st attempt now that it's +13C here and took it for a short ride to give it a bit of a charge. The voltage measured upon return between + in the fusebox and the body is back to a reasonable norm for AGM I suppose (~12.2-12.3V, hence 60-70% charged). Will still go ahead with its swap for a new one as I don't think a healthy battery should lose that much voltage in just a week of pretty mild cold.
  11. Thank you for the clarification. I have no idea myself where that point is either - just thought the higher battery capacity the further away the moment of crossing that point from above would be. That was a very informative test you carried out: thanks for sharing those figures. That test is now prompting me to buy an ammeter similar to yours 🙂
  12. That's exactly what seems to have been happening to it before we bought it as it had done just 50k miles over the last 9 years as per full Lexus s/h. It'll likely do better while with us as 3 weeks in summer once a year is going to be the max in our case in the foreseeable future. So if new battery lasts at least 5 years I'll consider choosing a lead acid one correct. I already have a Yuasa HSB053 (YBX5053 these days) in my own car 2005 Honda Accord CL7. It'd have been nice to check its age somehow: now thinking it's likely the 2nd one (hardly the original one though), and seeing it still cran
  13. Thank you for your prompt reply. Tbh the replies above suggest it's hardly ever loaded, so I really can't imagine how it can possibly go anywhere into so deep discharge unless perhaps the car is left unattended for weeks and weeks. It reportedly pressurizes the brakes upon entry but I suppose quickly gets recharged upon driving, right? In fact it'd be nice to learn how/when exactly it gets recharged w/o a traditional 12V alternator. P.S. Thanks for the added calculation: just noticed your update. Just unsure I understood this one: "for the purposes of starting the car it will become usel
  14. Started happening a few days ago. Initially seemed like a repeating glitch, which was kinda surprising amid that well-known reliability. I noticed that on one such occasion I happened to turn on the lights before pressing the Power button, which didn't make sense at all until now. Today the Ready light won't come on no matter what and the 12V battery measured just 9.22V, hence basically dead. It's a 2011 reg/car bought just half a year ago, so perhaps still the original battery assuming it's a Yuasa. Figuring out a suitable replacement battery in a parallel thread now. I even started thi
  15. Hi All, Just to avoid creating yet another thread on the CT200h 12v battery options: will an identical dimensions/capacity one, say Yuasa YBX5053 do about as good as an AGM one performance wise? Could anyone who's using a lead acid battery please share their experience with them? To my surprise even my spouse who owns one of these cars wants a lead acid one rather than an AGM one despite all those risks after I voiced their respective prices 🙂 What's more, the YBX5053 (50Ah) is at least 5Ah more than the original one, which might effectively translate into its longer life. Size wise it's
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