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Upex

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  1. Hi all, Hope you're keeping well. After Covid effectively killed my commute and poor Lexi being stood since bar the odd run to get hot and keep the bits moving, I've been meaning to tidy up the old girl, but 3 years later I'm facing another years worth of insurance whilst aiming to hopefully get round to sorting her out, but in reality I'll do a few hundred miles and be back in the same boat next year. She needs some attention, so wonder if anyone looking for a donor car albet it with 4 tyres and 2 shocks she'd be fine as a user, just scabby. She has mot at moment and drives grand, bar being bouncy in the front (shocks leaking) so easy way of getting the parts home vs needing a flatbed. Ebay has details, 175932506625 Winner was a bowler, so will be offering to the 4 people who offered above £1k unless anyone here needs a donor, as pretty sure they want to break and will make a heap, rather you folks get it without the mark up! Although I don't blame them as worth many times the price with just a few key parts, but what a waste 😥 I'll be back to Lexus for sure, so it's farewell for now, not goodbye 😉
  2. @pgg450hNo, my old gal still ticks away and has done for the 6 years or so. I decided to wait until something broke vs going on a goose chase, but nothing ever did, so the old saying prevailed, if it ain't broke, don't fix it 🤣 @Zabe if the annoyance was directed at my having not answered the question you asked in 2021, some 4 years after the thread convo raising the issue, then I'm sorry, I didn't get alerted thus know that you'd messaged, I wasnt actively tracking a 4 year dead thread and nor was there an update.
  3. I used a standard threaded rod and ball joint ends, m5 but should have done m6, was cheap as chips and changed it just on full lock, bit fiddly but doable without even needing a jack. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284961936152?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=50UyXFy-SrK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=9NE6iThDT26&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Had to cut down a bit, 200mm was too long, but otherwise passed mot fine and I have a spare 🤣
  4. Hi all, Hope you're well. Wonder if there any issues with using 225/50/17 inplace of current 245/40/18 Think the former are on 7inch rims and the latter 8inch rims. Need a spare set of wheels & tyres to use whilst get mine refurbished and then perhaps as winter set. The 17s are local and decent price off a Honda, so would need spigot rings but offset and pcd ok. Car is a gs450h 2006, any reason (like weight vs width) that the 17s 7inch 225s wouldn't be suitable? Thanks all
  5. Thanks Harrier, will check them out 👍
  6. Hi all, Hope you're well. Any recommendations for a decent but not costing the earth code reader/clearer? Pref one that can clear my TPMS error until I get the sensors replaced come tyre change time (I can clear with techstream and lasts a few days/week, but laptop fried battery and pain to get extension out etc) For use on various makes and models, not just Lexi. So many about and such price differences, wonder what y'all thought... Cheers, Upex
  7. My old gal does similar but it's not abs, its just the angle of tyres and road on full lock, they stutter/judder. If it is abs as per codes (ie they only pop when steered full after clearing) then I'd bet its that sensor needs replaced. You cannot usually withdraw wires that aren't meant to be removed and put them back in with reliable contacts. Don't know what to test for, but try continuity, I'd expect there to be an on off type single, the speed of which converts to road speed. If no good, use a good wheel to see what's going on and then replicate? Or just change the sensor, I'd bet those wires are not in 'properly' even if test ok under some conditions, and get garage to pay given they fussed up to breaking it.
  8. I haven't noticed if mine are: I've pressed something on the reverse screen and set it all on the wonk. Haven't tried to sort it as my camera lens is clouded up so pic poor anyway, need a new camera then will sort the settings and then probably find it's out 🤣 will just keep looking out the window 😉
  9. Appreciate I'm tres late, but why not.... Mine on the slight wonk to right after tracking done, this is because I left the wiper stalk one down when they did it and they squared the wheel to the stalks 🤣 Was going to go back and have it sorted but it suits my arm / finger position better so left it as prefer it You shouldn't have to change steering wheel splines, any adjustment should be at the tracking / wheel end!
  10. You find them Reggie? Any decent prices lurking out there? Need to source 2 fronts myself 🙄
  11. Well the rod worked, now mot'd, so all's well for less than £5 and is changeable with little effort, I did it just on full left lock, no Jack's or wheel off etc. Bit awkward but is doable 👍
  12. Sorry for delay. Pic was from amayama, but having stuck my head in the wheel arch, can't see one drivers side so your pic is the better Colin 👍 Will try to get the new bar fitted today, went with a throttle linkage in the end, m5 but should have got m6 🙄, but cheap, simple and will do the job and I can keep the ball joints greased (got the ones with release clips) so should last forever now. Just need to hope the sensor ok and works as should as not tested it and don't want to fail another mot 🤞
  13. I think you have to pay to move a car to Jersey and have a proper inspection, far more involved than mot (from me selling an XJR to a chap in Jersey years ago) but not sure on coming back. However so long as they have the v5c showing UK DVLa registered etc, I wouldn't expect any issues more so than with a UK car (I'd expect it to be in better condition if their checks more detailed than UK, unless sent to UK as failed over there 🤔) I say treat the same as a UK car and can't go to far wrong, just make sure they have papers from DVLA, don't want an import fee when you try to get your v5c (its a PITA!) Good luck 🤞
  14. Excuse my ignorance, but why would one wish to be able to lock one's keys in the boot? Understand shielding at home, but can't seem to come up with a scenario whereby it'd be useful to have a spare key or two, locked inside the car when you've lost your outside the car key or its broken. Perhaps save you only having to break a window and you're going again vs needing to fly in a key from home whilst touring the alps or whatever.
  15. That's a good idea Colin, thanks. I did speak to garage yesterday and from convo it turns out to be (4890750080 or perhaps 8940630140 if thats not just the sensor, different fiche pics seem to disagree 🙄) that they were meaning. Apparently the bar has come away/shot and thus when the suspension is moving up and down the sensor is seeing no movement and not moving the light. The turn on start up move of light motors must be to check them and not sensor driven, which makes sense, as would be stationary when starting (least most the time 🤣) I'm yet to have a look myself, but from what chap could recall he thinks it's the rose joint on bar rather than the metal it clamps to, so I'm thinking an adjustabke lh/rh thread rod with rose joints on the ends can be used as replacement (like carb rod or bike gear shift link) as can't find the lexus part local/decent price. My main dealer says the bar sensor and plate all come as one, £350+ish quid. Given a stainless gear link is less than 20 got to be worth a shot. Anyone happen to know the length? I'm away from home and be great to order one for when back rather than having to wait until back to mesaure. Thanks all
  16. So, had a look and it's tucked well away, defo a bumper off job or wheel arch liner out (didn't try that) to get to the motor, so haven't done those! I did get a length of timber out, stood it on floor and monitored what happens to each headlight when turning ignition on. Drivers side dips about 2cm (measured very close to car) down then back up. The passenger side does the same, give or take a few mm inaccuracy as the light beam isn't that sharp (lenses have gone cloudy/murky which is another job to sort 🙄) So I can only assume that either the mot station are meaning something different, or that it was stuck given not moved in 3 years and now with a few starts and bit of use its unstuck itself. If the former, and it's not this motor they mean by the failure, any ideas what they could mean? If the latter, fngers crossed for the retest eh!
  17. Thanks ColinB, that's helpful as wasn't sure on the ride hight sensor 👍 Anyone any ideas how I get to it, efficiently? Keen to not have to remove bumper, lamp etc if it's possible to reach via other route or even mildly painful / contortional access paths. Can deal with a broken finger, but don't have time to strip the front 🤣
  18. It's not the aim level John it's the auto leveller, the bit that lowers when boot full of stuff etc and keeps the lights at right level vs blinding folks. The bit that dips the lights level and then lifts again when turning car on. The driver side is dipping and returning, the nearside stays static but used to move up and down when turning on. Believe controlled by 85661-48030 which is part of the lamp unit I think, plus perhaps a ride height sensor at back or such? Or am I missing something?
  19. Hi all, Hope you keeping well. So my poor lexi been stood on my drive since the start of covid and today went for an mot to see just how much needed done. Lots of expected stuff, but one I didn't see coming (hadn't checked/looked to be fair) Nearside Front Headlamp levelling device inoperative rod is telescopic, and not operating as required (4.1.5 (a)) So had a quick search on here and nothing jumps out. Anyone any heads up or direction to get this fixed quick? From a web search seems some pics are solid bar others are adjustable linkage sorts. I presume it's the right one as been on car since I've had her and worked for many year. I there wonder if its stuck somehow or if the motor/actuator is at fault vs sensors, as the offside is levelling, unless each side has its own corresponding sensor on each side? Anyways, is it lamp out, up via wheel arch liner or should I be starting to dig elsewhere? Apart from that, I'm pleased with how the old gal has faired of nearly 3 years non use, still went like a rocket, when got past the grinding rusty breaks 🤣 Cheers all, Upex
  20. Or get techstream and reset them. Mine then take weeks to flag back up 🤣 so I reset again and off we go. More than likely a duff battery or 4, mine is an 06 and one battery went 2 years back, other 3 still going but low. I'm waiting till tyres need done and will swap all 4 batteries DIY via the scrape and pot method on here. Would be done by now but lockdown and having car off road for long time to do the transmission pump bearings lowered my mileage a lot last year and this.
  21. They run the engine and listen look etc. If left on the engine will kick in and out whilst its on the ramp as per usual charging pattern. What they don't do, well shouldn't do (I've had one force it so never been back) is run engine and hold it running via the gas pedal to do emissions, if that makes sense
  22. Fly, spider or such on inside interfering with the internal sensors perhaps? Try disabling interior sensors for few days and sees if stops going off. Did read someone had some change in armrest area and that was setting theirs off, but could have been a totally different car 🙄
  23. 😥 I need 2 front shocks, just had mot and although she passed (no oil leakage so not a fail 😊) she was described as "as Bobby as a barge, how do you drive her" so I replied "fast, flies over the bumps then and no bobbing" 🤣 Not bad considering her age and miles, 06 on 170k, and considering I think I killed the shocks when changing the bearings on the transmission pump, as left her up on front axle stands for a few months 😬 got stuck with some other things that prevented me from finishing the pump. And as had to do rear shocks a couple years ago as leaked. BarneyTT, glad you got some sorted for sensible money 👌🤞
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