Tyre Tread

JUst to update: Had a call from AFC Parts and they can immediately supply the idler pulley but waiting on the tensioner pulley from Poland. Told them to send me the idler and refund the difference.

Not delivered yet and no response from AFC parts ... Hmm

I've ordered the two pulleys and they should be here in a few days so I'll feed back when i get around to fitting them

My car (2007 IS250) has done 112K miles now (70K in my ownership over the last 7 years) and I admit to having neglected the Auxiliary belt. When checking it the other day I noticed it looks like changing it might be a good idea and when checking the idler pulleys I noticed the top one has some lateral movement. Before I commit to buying, can anyone confirm if these are the correct pulleys for my 2007 IS250 please? https://afcparts.co.uk/product/224698/0187-gsu45-pulley-tensioner-kit-oem-16620-31031-1662031031.html https://afcparts.co.uk/product/224699/0188-2grfe-pulley-idler-oem-1660431010-16604-31010.html I looked them up based on part numbers quoted elsewhere on this forum. For clarity the pulley labelled PUL is the one with some play in it but I figure the tensioner pulley would be worth changing at the same time. I know you can buy the complete tensioner assembly but was hoping to avoid having to spend an additional £100 if possible. I also need to buy the belt if anyone has a part number for it please?

Let's just say she has smaller, lighter feet than I do, particularly the right one. She is a very smooth driver and whilst not slow, is laid back.

In the year I've had my IS250 I don't think my wife had driven my car more then once until this weekend as she's not a fan of autos. She wanted to attend a conference in York (from Cardiff) this weekend, stopping off en route to visit a friend in hospital in Peterborough and her car needs tyres (ordered and delivery delayed) so she reluctantly agreed to take the IS250. I got her to keep note of the refuelling as I track costs for my cars on an app. I got in this morning to work out mileages etc and found this I've seen mid forties before when driven like a nun but never this and this was from Market Harborough where she filled up to home.

As per other thread, mine does it if I park nose down on a slope so I always park nose up or level.

I used to get the rattle on start-up if I parked the car "nose down " on my sloping driveway so I started always back in and park "nose up" and never had the issue since.

Did a 450 mile round trip today and managed to nail the main noise issue to the 1500 to 2200 rev rang during which the exhaust resonates and booms. I think I'll try talking to the guys who made it and see if anything can be done

I was about to pooh pooh your suggestions gents BUT I decided to investigate and played with switch and it worked intermittently. Took switch off (Not as easy as it sounds as there's zero spare play in the wiring loom so had to use some ingenuity to stop the cable & connector disappearing into the B pillar) and checked it on the meter and sure enough it was intermittent. Sprayed it with switch cleaner- still intermittent. Nicked the one off the back door and put it on the driver's door 😁 (for now) So apologies and thank you for making me check the obvious. Occam's razor strikes again.

Apologies to H3XME for my earlier comment. Had a bad day yesterday. Tried to edit my post but wasn't able to. Didn't mean to offend

I noticed a little while ago that the light courtesy light didn't come on when I opened the drivers's door but hadn't noticed until last night that the sill light and other courtesy functions also are not operated by the drivers's door. When a passenger got into the car in the dark the cabin lit up like it should (including driver's side sill light. I had also been irritated the recently the doors were locking and alarm resetting after I got into the car (driver's side) and it was only last night that I connected the two. Clearly the car isn't sensing the door driver's being opened. I've done a search but not found much info except to say it is likely to be either a fuse or the control bos but I don't know which fuse or where it may be located or which control box and whether it is fixable. Can anyone with experience of solving this problem help me please?

No sh*t Sherlock. I'm well aware that the engine speed dictates the sound output rather than speed. No idea what the revs were but fairly low as would be suggested by my statement that the engine was at 30 to 40 mph under light load. I wasn't actually analysing it, it was just a general impression I don't think you would be able to record the sound as it's so quiet in the car but precisely because it's so quiet you notice the slight increase in exhaust noise. It's a low frequency resonance I think. "V6 shakes the trees" :ROFL: I've got two V8's in the garage if I want to do that. The V6 is about quiet waftiness (as is, if I'm honest, one of the V8s).

Managed a 200 mile round trip today. The car is still very quiet but there is definitely a bit more noise going on the accelerator at 30 or 40 mph on light load. Not sure if its just me though so I'll get another opinion from a friend who has been in the car a lot. Looks pretty standard from the back end (I paid extra for tips that look like the originals but aren't just a trim).

No pics yet as picked it up after dark tonight. Not that there will be much to see unless the car is in the air LOL

Today I bit the bullet and had a system replaced from the secondary cats backward. LongLife Exhausts in Carphilly have an excellent reputation and they haven't disappointed. I told them I wanted the car to remain as quiet as standard and they seem to have pulled it off although only a few miles drive home so will get its first real test on a run tomorrow.. I did spend an extra £100 for nice exhaust tips so it should look good as well as sound good,

Today I took the car to a specialist stainless steel exhaust fabricator and got a quote for the mid section using my existing cats. Quoted £800 plus and extra £100 for fancy exhaust tips. I called Lexus Cardiff the other day and they quoted £1200 initially and then reduced it down to £850 for centre section which, I assume, includes the cats. (supply only) Ebay has a system available for circa £500 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172856116928?hash=item283f0706c0:g:3KwAAOSwIwhWTtvK Not sure which way to go. A little concerned that the stainless might be a little noisier

Took my car for an MOT today and it passed but the tester at my local garage said the rear cat has two small holes, one at front of the mid box and one at the back of it. My friendly MOT guy temporarily sealed the holes and passed the car Realistically what are my options. I'd like to keep the car for a few years but if I replace part of the exhaust I'm worried I'll just end up spending out more on the rest in a few months time. I'd also be concerned that a stainless replacement (bespoke) would be noisier then standard and I do enjoy the peace of my IS250. Any pearls of wisdom gratefully received

I have a 2007 SE-L with rear blind etc but doesn't say it's an ML stereo

I bought mine 4.5 years ago with 58K miles and had the first service done by Lexus. Since then I have done all my own repairs and servicing including the water pump, spark plugs (only required every 60k miles and more complex to do than most cars), brakes, two headlamp bulbs and a battery. I have kept records on an app of when the services were done: 10/8/17 - 61,457 Lexus 16/11/17 - 67,337 Oil and filter 2/6/18 - 78,727 Major inc Water pump 6/10/18 - 85,283 Oil and filter 27/12/18 - 89,574 Major inc spark plugs 26/1/19 - 91,207 Oil change 5/7/19 - 100,265 Oil and Filter 16/8/21 - 104,656 Oil change Prior to this the car had FSH by Lexus. Would you consider that evidence enough? Backed up by parts receipts of course. I ask out of interest as I am thinking of selling my car simply because I'm not using it enough and I have another 3 cars. I'd look at the overall condition of a car as well as its history. Mine is immaculate apart from 2 areas of paint, both on plastic bumpers and one little dent in the boot. The whole car belies the fact it's done over 100K miles and is 14 years old.

You mean "Jump start" rather than "Bump start" as you can't bump start an auto.

Wait until you see the repairs and finished car. You will be surprised I reckon.

I just thought this series of videos might interest some of you. This guy is offered a free IS250 if he can get it running. It's stood for 18 months and several mechanics haven't been able to revive it. It is American and you need to fast forward through the product promotion bits on each of the videos but there are some good learning points to how to disassemble and repair some bits. Hope you enjoy:

After seeing the warnings about fake plugs you bought some from a company called "Ambush"? 😄 Let us know how that goes won't you? Seriously, I hope they are genuine as it's quite a big time investment to find out they don't work or worse still if they break up and knacker your engine.

Changed my plugs at 90K miles and they looked fine. I'm sure the originals are great for well over 100K but better safe then sorry. I bought the plugs and the necessary seals from Lexus Birmingham online. Decent savings but guaranteed 100% genuine parts so worth paying for. You really don't want to risk putting fake plugs in with all the work involved to change them.