ax53

Hey everyone! So I'm having some problems with my stereo system. It's an OEM head unit and I run a cassette adapter to my phone. It's very hard to analyse this problem because I don't know when it happens or what causes it but the sound cuts out sporadically with irregular reoccurance. At first I thought it was the cassette adapter that jammed up and made it rewind but it still cuts out on radio, so that's ruled out. Next I pulled the head unit out to find a birds nest of splice mess. The car had a hands free phone system installed at some point, so I cut all that crud out and matched up the wires again. Problem persists. I read somewhere that the "AF" mode could be the culprit so I experimented with that, and at first it seemed to have solved it but then it came back again. Like I said, the problem occurs sporadically and irregularly. Sometimes I can listen to a whole song fine, and other times it cuts out once every second. A precursor to this problem was that the speakers would pop and crackle upon initial start up, and the problem would later settle down until the car was left over night. That problem seems to have gone away though. The car is an IS200 Sounds familiar to anyone? Is the head unit toast? Help is much appreciated!

Oooh I see, my bad :)

This is the IS200 section... I love that everyone post IS220D stuff on here and no one bats an eye. But then someone actually posts about IS200 and gets told off lol

No problems. Also, I'd just like to say that I didn't mean to discourage you or anything. With the right ambitions you certainly could do it. Another word of warning though. You say you don't wanna spend 2300 pounds, and I totally get that. But just beware that something like this can kinda run away from you in terms of budget. You can do it cheap but its hard to estimate how cheap that is. So just beware of stuff like this, it will probably end up more expensive than you anticipate. http://www.tezzaworld.com/viewtopic.php?t=13381 <- here is the build thread with the 2jz-gte manifold.

To answer your question, yes you can source your own parts and turbo an IS200 without buying the £2300 kit. But since you have to ask that question, don't take this the wrong way, perhaps you need to ask yourself if you're up to the task. It takes a bit of know-how and dedication to get this done. I've not turboed an IS200 myself but I'm doing research by checking out other peoples builds and I guess I can give you some advice. First of all, I would like to point out that the manifold is definitely the nugget of the turbo kit. A civic turbo kit is about half the cost, with pretty much the same stuff with the exception of the manifold and downpipe. The reason the Civic kit is cheaper is that it's a way more common car to turbocharge and so the manifolds are a lot cheaper. The 1G-FE on the other hand is a very rare motor to turbocharge, so obviously the manifold is going to be a lot more expensive. Luckily it turns out that the way more common 2JZ-GTE manifold doesn't fit at all, but the runners line up pretty good with the flange of a 1G-FE manifold. So the cheapest method is to get yourself a 2jz-gte manifold, chop the flange of and weld on a 1G-FE flange (with TIG and backpurge). Or have a custom log style manifold made up. So let's assume you've got the turbo on. The next roadblock is the ECU which unfortunately is tied into like every system on the car. So it's a pretty involved car to modify in any way, just based on the electrics. A piggyback ECU is the easiest option here. And finally the internals are designed for low torque output, so the rods are as shaved down as they can be.

What royt said. And also try to hammer it back towards the trunk so the trunk gap is good. Remove the tail light and try to work out how its kinked. Hard to get it perfect but you can improve it alot.

I'd just like to point out that this is the IS200 / IS300 section. There is another section for IS220D

Yea I do my own stuff as far as it's not a hell of a job, considering I don't have a lift or even a paved surface to work on. I'm probably gonna leave the flywheel and clutch to a shop with a pit or lift as I just cannot be bothered honestly.

Yea I actually went with a JUN from Nengun as well :) Thanks

Hmm, now I'm getting uncertain because the part number should be 11191A. Maybe you can check with your local toyota / lexus dealer? The ebay page says it should fit though but I cant guarantuee it. About the job itself, I don't think there is a video specifically on the IS200 but basically what you do is you remove the intake box held down with a few bolts then you remove the engine harness which goes over the valve cover. It clips in all over the place but you can detach it quite easily. remove the coil packs and all the breather hoses undo all the 10mm bolts for the valve cover. gently pry with a flat head screw driver. (the twist technique works best) and be careful with the valve cover gasket so you don't drop it on the ground flip the whole thing upside down and pull the seals out from the inside using a seal puller. press the new ones in and do everything in reverse.

Yep that's it. Also it shouldn't be too hard to do it yourself. You have to pull the valve cover though so it might be a little bit intimidating if you have no mechanical experience. But all you need is an 8mm and a 10mm socket, and maybe a seal puller. If you attempt this job yourself, I would say the main things to worry about is make sure you don't get any debris like sand into the valve train, and make sure you don't scratch the surface where the seal is.

I think it's like what TigerFish pointed out, the oil pools up in the plug well and soaks the bottom only once you remove the spark plug. So you're in luck here. The outer valve cover gasket doesn't help you at all in this case. You wanna replace the ones I linked which seals up between the valve cover and the plug wells. Good luck This makes sense, since the oil probably dribbled into the cylinder when the spark plugs were removed.

It doesn't make any sense mate. The oil is either on top of the spark plug, on the porcelain bit, from leaking in from the valve cover. This is what you want because it's an easy fix where you just have to replace some seals. However if the oil is on the bottom half, your engine is toast. Bad piston rings, or a blown head gasket. Check if the oil is on the top of bottom half to know which of the two. Did you get the right seals replaced? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-TOYOTA-SPARK-PLUG-TUBE-SEAL-SETX6-LEXUS-IS200-IS250-GS300-RX300-RX400-/112445361069?hash=item1a2e440bad:g:5oAAAOSwN6JY9bDp Does the motor consume a lot of oil? Is the exhaust smoke blue? Is there any signs of oil in your coolant?

Yes the strut design is exactly the same which means they will bolt up to an IS200. (i run those in mine) Scudney is referring to the fact that IS300 probably have stiffer front springs from factory because the 2JZ is heavier. But those coilovers are way stiff anyway so it doesn't really make a massive difference. And you can always replace the springs with softer ones off the same inner diameter. Keep in mind though that their CAD work on those coilovers isn't 100% so you might have to take a round file and oval out your strut tower bolt holes since some of the top hat studs are misplaced by about a millimeter. Also a tip is to cover the threads on the sleeves in copper paste to prevent them from going rusty. Or else it will happen quite fast since they are made out of steel.

I got the same problem. It's squeezed out just a very small amount of oil, probably over the course of it's lifetime honestly. So i wouldn't worry too much about it apart from the dirty look of it. Clean it up with some brake clean on a rag and see how long it takes for it to come back.

Yea. You just remove the cable from the boot latch. Quite easy to do. Pull back the trim in the boot held on with a couple clips, then there is a black plastic piece covering the boot latch which clips off pretty easily. From there it's pretty self explanatory, just unhook the cable from the lever on the boot latch. And while you're at it you got 4x 8mm bolts right there which lets you pull the little bezel from the outside with the license plate lights. If you wanna change those.

Hey. Just a quick question. Can anyone confirm that the MR2 clutch fits on the is200 flywheel? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172530012715?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Like that one for example? I'm getting a JUN smf, so I need a sprung clutch. Thanks!

I'm just running around 0. basically winding it up until the spring has no slack. Makes it easier to turn the assembly vs running higher preload, to adjust the height. And it's a smooth ride as long as you run less than the rest load, about 2-3cm.

Yea, i think it did the trick.Long shocks in front. The image shows the lowest position in the front and near the lowest in the rear with about 6 cm raising availible. 0 preload

Yeah thats the rear as low as it gets. However, I pulled the shocks out today. And the rear ones are about 4.5cm longer (promising) I only hope the front doesn't get too high but time will tell.

I have them. They are really good for the price, not very bumpy etc since you can adjust the preload yourself. You get 12kg springs for the front and 10 kg springs for the rear. (I've swapped those around cus drift car) The heights aren't perfect since you cant get the rear down very far without winding down the preload below 0 while the front ends up absolutely slammed unless you run it in the highest position. I have a theory that it ends up pretty nice if you swap the dampers around front to rear, so I'm gonna try that in a few days. And the top plates fitment isn't perfect so you have to oval out a hole 1 mm or so. And obviously no bracket for the brake lines in the front so you have to ziptie them. Another thing is that while the rings are aluminium, the threads and bottom mount is steel, so they rust unless you keep them treated. Of course as others have pointed out, non adjustable dampers, but it seems that they have a little bit more rebump than bump which is a nice feature, and the damping force is pretty well suited at least for street use. I suppose you can change the damper insert if you really wanted to, to something adjustable. For the money they are great

Thanks for your answer. I do admit I've always wanted to order something off of Nengun, this might be the time :) I might wait with it though and just go with an SMF clutch kit fitted on the dual mass for now though.

Hey, so.. My clutch is going out and rather than slapping on a factory clutch, I would like to change to a sprung clutch and a single mass flywheel. My question is are there any affordable options from other toyota motors which would fit in the 1G-FE of the IS200? My other option is to go with the semi-pricey JUN light weight flywheel with a 3S-GE clutch but I rather save some money if I can. Any help is appreciated.

no problem. Upon further investigation i think it feeds the oil for the VVTi system. So in that case it doesn't serve a lubrication purpose which is a good thing. Also the fitting type is called a "banjo fitting". Good luck

Updated my comment, I think its an oil feed for the cam gears.