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wharfhouse last won the day on November 2 2018

wharfhouse had the most liked content!

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About wharfhouse

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  • Lexus Model
    IS 300h Executive
  • Year of Lexus
  • UK/Ireland Location
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    Motorsport & Racing

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  1. Definitely not a problem in my IS 300h - even with 4 up. I pretty much never change my climate control from auto with AC on and just let it do it's own thing. If the car is indeed dry inside (e.g. carpet in the footwells etc.) and after checking the other suggestions I would suspect the clogged drains next. On my BMW that has this they said it happens with road dirt getting into the drains and blocking the ends. If not that then if AC is running properly and vents inside the car are open this should definitely keep the inside of the car clear of any condensation.
  2. In all my cars when the weather has been very damp or turned cold outside there can be a very brief period when starting the car that there is some slight fogging of the windows when the AC is on but this clears within a few seconds as the internal fans come on and so is not a problem. I did have a BMW once where the fogging persisted and when the garage checked they found that the drains for the condensation form the AC (that exit under the car) had become blocked. The garage blew them clear and the problem went away. Since then I do look now and again when the weather is hot to make sure there is a small puddle of condensate under my cars after stopping so I know the drains are clear. If you have persistent fogging on the inside of the windows with the AC on then it could well be this problem that the AC drains are blocked and need clearing.
  3. Mine always feels smoother after a service - just had 80k mile service done amd 4 new tyres fitted and it feels like a brand new car!
  4. I was also looking recently as I purchased my IS second hand at 2 years old with 40K miles nearly 3 years ago from a Lexus dealer. Comparing list price of the car I purchased (on the forecourt - I did get some negotiated off of course) with one the same age and mileage as mine now has on the clock (79,500) on the used Lexus website I just worked out it has only gone down £3,500 in forecourt value in that 3 years. So depreciation of just over £1,000 per annum from a 2 year old to a 5 year old car. Really can't complain at that. I appreciate I would lose a bit more than that if I trade it in of course at a dealer or sell privately but as a like for like comparison found it interesting.
  5. Yep - the services will be done on an annual basis in that case rather than miles (12 months or 10k between services) - if you want to get the service plan and to pay monthly, call Lexus and tell them that you will need 2 services over 2 years (it will be one major and one minor - the order depending on which it had last) and that you want to start the plan today with the first service due in a year's time from the previous one (which you say was recent). That way you will be able to spread the cost of the 2 services over the 24'ish months (depending on when the first is due) and so keep your monthly payments down to the minimum. If you wait until the next service is due to start the service plan you will have to pay that service in full and then the plan would run 2 years from that service for the next 2 services...
  6. Could it be contamination on the discs/pads?As you have just purchased the car it may have been stood some time. I would take the car onto an empty road and then do a few hard braking runs from about 60mph which should clean up discs and pads. If that doesn't work then probably a trip back to the dealer to query it.
  7. I suspect that the test threshold may be the issue - I had a similar warning at my last service (10k miles ago now) but the dealer said that it is not uncommon and not to be concerned as its often that the test is done after the car has been sat for a while drawing current from the 12v battery,for example during the a service. I haven't had any problems since the last service but have another coming up in a couple of weeks so will see if the check reports the problem again at that one. My IS 300h is a 64 reg, 79,000 miles and still original 12v battery. I do keep one of the emergency jump battery blocks in the glovebix just in case but never had to use it yet.
  8. If you choose to pay for a service plan monthly then it is in effect a savings account. If you have not got enough in there when the service is due you may be asked to pay a top-up on the day. So best time to start the monthly payment service plan is straight after a service. You tell Lexus how any services you think will be needed over 2 years (I have 3 for example as I do about 15000 miles per annum) and then they give you a price for that which you can either pay upfront or by DD each month - there is no interest added for the convenience of monthly payments.
  9. P3000-388 Discharge Inhibition Control Malfunction. This code is triggered when the battery’s state of charge decreases due to the vehicle being left in N position, running low on fuel or a malfunction occurring in the HV control system. Possible causes include: HV control system, HV battery assembly or a fuel shortage
  10. You obviously take care to make sure the system is dry in your car which is great. However, the propensity of issues (on all car forums) from people with smelly or leaking air con means that others don't appear to take that care. Although nothing scientific, the vast majority of these problems are from people who switch air con off and only have it on when they want cold air from time to time whereas those who leave it on all the time rarely report any problems. In addition, automatic air con, IMHO, is designed to be on full-time and I would have thought be engineered to maintain itself as much as possible in this mode - but I may be too trusting of designers...! Anyway, I'm happy doing what I have for decades - never had an issue with the systems or been ill.
  11. I think we will have to agree to disagree since for decades I have run cars with AC always on (some to high mileage) and never had a problem with smells, leaks, misting up windows or any of the problems others often report. Making sure the AC is dry as you suggest would also work too but not always easy to remember - leaving it on all the time is certainly easier and I can assure everyone from my experience leaving it on 365 days a year prevents the old socks smell!
  12. The fix is the same for all cars especially those with automatic air con like yours. Do not switch the air con off!!! - just leave it on auto all the time and set the desired temperature for the system to maintain. This way condensate does not settle in the system where bacteria can grow and produce the smell and also it prevents any seals from drying out and causing leaks. Regards the mould on the radiator i am assuming you mean mould in the condenser - if it was just on the outside of the radiator just clean it off. My plan of action would be to get the system cleaned again (maybe by a 3rd party air con specialist - also running the heating on max while driving around with the air con on for an hour or so on auto can help kill the bacteria though it might smell for a while but you can leave the windows open) and then leave the air con set on full time - you said yourself the smell only came back after switching it off. I have never had the problem with smells others often report on any of my cars but have always left air con on auto all of the time on all of them. With modern cars the impact on fuel consumption is negligible and the additional cost is certainly far, far less than any problems caused such as you appear to be experiencing.
  13. That tallies with what I have always found - about 3psi between summer and winter - I alway use the same hand held pressure gauge and never ever rely on the garages... Even check after a service as they are often slightly out and different between tyres when I get the car back so I put them all right so I can monitor any change by comparing between tyres which then rules out any temperature difference. I also read that oxygen molecules actually leak through the rubber tyre whereas nitrogen molecules (being larger) do not. As air is approx 20% oxygen and 80% nitrogen over time (not sure how long) a tyre will naturally lose 20% of its air. That's why some tyre places fill with nitrogen as the pressure is more stable longer term.
  14. If you are looking around £16/17K you are probably in the earlier years of the model range (2014/15) depending on trim - I have a pdf brochure I've attached here dated Jan 2016 that has the specs of all trims - over time specs change so may not be totally accurate for earlier cars but it might give you a reasonable starting point when comparing trim levels for what you might want to narrow down to. Lexus IS.pdf