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C Andrew Green

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Posts posted by C Andrew Green

  1. @audimad Apologies for the late reply, but I've only just had a chance to peruse the manual and I can't find out any more than the pic I posted previously in this thread. It's in the manual about removing the fuel tank and it just says remove the three hoses which appear to be the clips that just require careful use of a large pair of pliers. It's quite odd that it isn't even mentioned in the Fuel Flow diagram? I presume it to be the part I've arrowed bottom left......

    image.thumb.png.61840f842634cb6e6044a6d8bcd6de43.png

  2. 3 minutes ago, Texas said:

    Where else would you get a reply to a 3+ year old post! ( certainly not on a BMW forum 😂😂😂😂)

    happy days 😃

    Haha!, why wouldn't I? I was pretty pleased with myself having succeeded and @zoricib asked nicely! I must have thought I was at work (Oh yes, I am) where customers surface years after purchase and want spares or servicing for their Seismometers leading to much searching of archives and memories!

    Andrew

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, zoricib said:

    Hey Andrew, was wondering if you managed to program the key? 

    Hi @zoricib,

    If you're asking about adding/programming a standard key fob, yes I did indeed achieve success, for some unaccountable reason I posted the results of my efforts here OBD Engine Scanners (towards the end of the 2 page thread).

    If you're asking about the Smart Card key fobs, I decided that as I had the safety of two functioning standard keys I didn't need the hassle of buying a possibly un-resellable Card key.

    Andrew

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  4. @Zuke The first time you drive one the very non-linear throttle response in normal mode might lead you to that conclusion.

    There's a switch to the left of the steering column to select 'ECT/PWR' mode which appears to remove some of the throttle non-linearity. Mine lives in 'ECT/PWR' mode permanently, well unless it snows when it's other position of the switch 'Snow' which is a low torque mode.

    Wait until it's warmed up properly and let it have some revs and it's quite quick enough.

    Andrew

    • Like 1
  5. Hi Scott,

    Not an IS220 owner (IS250) but the pic confused me I was trying to reconcile it with views of the engine! Then I realised from looking at the manual that the convoluted rubber thing in the foreground is actually a rear axle joint boot! According to the manual the part with three pipes is the 'Fuel route switching valve' I can't find any reference to it in the 'Parts location' section only the attached reference to removing it. I'll have a further peruse and update if I do find anything.

    Andrew

    ScreenHunter 311.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  6. I got fed up with constantly checking and correcting the tyre pressures due to what I thought were leaky rims so I bought a set of these (see pic). I didn't particularly like the external ones so went for the internal fit type. When I went to my regular tyre place Merittyre, Purley, Berks. It turns out that the rims were fine but the leaking was due to corrosion where the valves seat! Cleaned them out and assembled the included metal valve bodies to the rims with a generous helping of silicone O ring grease, tyres refitted and inflated to 35/38 (with nitrogen I think) and now get a continuous display of tyre pressures, which I haven't had to touch since they were fitted in April. Picture was taken just after arriving home so all the temps are up and pressures are ~4psi  higher due to driving, cold in the morning they're still dead on 35/38. I have another set of these in my 16" winter tyres & wheels too. These are relstively cheap due to not having replaceable batteries but allegedly have a Battery life of ~5 years, they don't transmit when they've been stationary for a while and wake up on moving a few feet.

    Andrew

    20190718_184214.jpg

  7. 3 hours ago, Billnick said:

    How do you get the dome light assembly down off the roof?

    I posted a clip from the service manual in (I think) post # 17 and a description a couple of posts later, but basically just use a thin blade like a penknife blade in the rear edge of the flush panel (which is toward the front of the dome light assembly) which hinges down and inside there are two screws to remove and then two trim clips at the rearmost corners. Ideally removed with a forked trim clip tool but easily unpopped with fingers. Simply ease it down and undo the multi plug.

    Andrew

  8. @Alfalfa

    Today's update:

    After some more perusing of the wiring schematic I pulled my dome light assembly apart (pic).

    There is a lot of copper covering tracks so it's a bit difficult to follow the circuits.

    I then checked the 'R5' connector and the lines shown (in the second pic) are ignition switched (not 'accesory' switched like the cigarette lighter socket.

    White/Black trace = Ground

    Green = +Ignition.

    I haven't yet found anywhere useful that they appear on the dome light PCB and it seems somewhat crude (OCD prevents it!) to just solder wires to the back of the connector!

    Really need some suitable crimps for the housing as both Ignition and ground are looped out on adjacent pins.

    Will update further when I decide what to do next.

    Andrew

    Dome Light Connector.jpg

    Dome Light Guts.jpg

  9. 1 hour ago, Alfalfa said:

    I checked if i had alarm in the car, and i have, so the compartment hole is taken, thanck you all for saving me from baying something i can not use.

    plan 2 is to place a jack and switch there to take out 12 V for a dash cam. Hope there wil be a 12v wire with power only with ignithion on.

    I had much the same thought about dashcam power. I had a poke around the multi plug with a meter when I had it out to do the LED's but couldn't make much sense of it! I eventually settled for unclipping the left side A pillar cover and running my dashcam feed up inside it. Now I have a wiring diagram I may have to revisit the multi plug when I have some spare time.

    As an aside I wonder where the sensor is when a sunglasses holder is fitted?  Or is that only in some countries without factory fit alarm?

    Andrew

  10. Funny you should post this, I was having much the same thoughts..... searching eBay for 'lexus 86790-53010' shows a few OEM cameras second hand from around £25 upwards.

    I can't quite tell from your pic, but is the connector just a single row of 5 contacts? All the ones on eBay that show the connector appear to have a squarish connector with 2 rows of contacts?

    Di you notice that the standard plastic panel (where the number plate mounts) doesn't have the central cutout that the cars with nav and camera have (different part numbers)?

    I use my Android phone with Waze in a dash mount and I think I've figured out how to automatically switch it to video display and back (my IS is a non nav poverty spec). I've just bought a cheapy camera to try with a USB OTG compatible video grabber (digitiser) that I already have.

    Andrew

  11. 3 minutes ago, Mauler said:

    Haha, "poverty spec", I'm not sure that a Lexus could be considered such a thing 😁

    It's the PDF of the US manual as functionally the vehicles are the same, I didn't know that the custom options were different though, I'm not sure why Lexus would go to the bother of modifying a firmware for the UK market so much?  As an IT Tech myself, I'd expect them to take an existing firmware from another market and modify that as little as possible to suit.  

    @Mauler

    Well it's a base model! Cloth seats, not heated or cooled, manually adjusted, no parking sensors.

    Yep, I'm surprised that the different country models are so different in firmware, you would think that they would program it for every country and just enable / disable bits of code as required. It's probably down to legislation as to what each market requires vehicles to do. Otherwise people like us could end up fiddling with stuff and then Lexus could fall foul of the law.

    Andrew

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